Question:

I agree that Pentax has missed the boat on upper level consumer grade telephoto zooms.  The 80-200mm f/4.7-5.6 is too slow, and not opticaly up to the same standard as the lenses you mentioned.  The 80-320mm f/3.5-5.6 is slightly faster at the 80mm end, but still variable aperture, slightly lower optical performance, and has that annoying zoom creep problem.  The 100-300 f/4.6-5.9 and f/4.5-5.6 suffer from even lower optical performance, and are missing that 70-100 range.  So what is the alternative?  One might consider the 100mm f/3.5 macro, which has great optical performance, and a 200mm f/4 lens, but the 200mm f/4 is a Macro lens and blisteringly expensive for someone who just wants a 200mm f/4.

The original 100-300 FA (power zoom) was supposed to be quite decent from what I read at the time. I went for the Sigma 70-300 APO which isn’t ideal, but the results I get are pretty good. Yes, there should be a 70-200mm f/4 ED, non-variable maximum f-stop, to match the 20-35 and 28-70, and of similarly high optical performance.  Until then, Pentax DOES have a hole in its lens lineup. I’ve always been a proponent of Pentax.  I have always defended that their selection of lenses has just about anything any normal person would want.  I have the ZX-5n, 20-35mm f/4, 28-70mm f/4, 80-320mm f/4.5-5.6, 50mm f/1.4, 100mm f/3.5 Macro, and an AF-330FTZ.  I would give up my 80-320 for an 80-200mm f/4, or even for an affordable 200mm f/4 with AF if I could find one.

I’m currently using a Tamron AD2 SP 70-210 f/3.5 (non-variable) lens for this range. Again not ideal and quite heavy but otherwise an interesting lens. Pentax seem to have dropped the reasonably priced lenses, forcing users to buy the more expensive options which in many cases are too expensive for casual use, things like the 35 f/2.8, 85 f/2 and 105. Sure the 31, 43 & 77 are great lenses but expensive, the 35 f/2 isn’t cheap either. All of these lenses individually cost more than a ZX-5n body (at least in the UK), you have to wonder if it’s worth shooting Pentax primes in this environment? Especially when Canon, Nikon and Minolta all offer second rank, slower max. aperture lenses at much better prices. I also shoot Mamiya 645 and find the Mamiya 645 primes cost roughly the same as the equivalent Pentax 35mm primes (I guess the Pentax 645 lenses are similarly priced). When I consider a new lens, it’s not surprising that I generally prefer to go for the 645 lens over a 35mm lens. — John Preston, Lancs, UK. Photos at http://www.photopia.demon.co.uk

Response:

Pentax has the 28-70mm f4 AL zoom and the 20-35mm f4 AL wide angle zoom. These lenses performing closer to the fast f2.8 pro counterparts of similar range rather than the consumer variable aperture versions. Now I would like to see Pentax finish the equation by adding a 70-200mm f4 ED of high performance. This would be the icing on the cake. It would make a fine medium speed system that’s not too expensive or heavy to lug around. I’m not seeing the tele zoom in their cataloge. John

Response:

Now I would like to see Pentax finish the equation by adding a 70-200mm f4 ED of high performance. This would be the icing on the cake. It would make a fine medium speed system that’s not too expensive or heavy to lug around.

The lenses that have my interest right now are the 43mm f/1.9, 77mm f/1.8 and the upcoming 31mm f/1.8. To finish this prime equation I’d love to see a super-wide in the 15-19mm range and maybe even something above 100mm. -Dave-

Response:

The lenses that have my interest right now are the 43mm f/1.9, 77mm f/1.8 and the upcoming 31mm f/1.8. To finish this prime equation I’d love to see a super-wide in the 15-19mm range and maybe even something above 100mm.

Theres an FA 18/2.8 Limited coming.

Response:

The lenses that have my interest right now are the 43mm f/1.9, 77mm f/1.8 and the upcoming 31mm f/1.8. To finish this prime equation I’d love to see a super-wide in the 15-19mm range and maybe even something above 100mm. There’s an FA 18/2.8 Limited coming.

Excellent! Looks like I’ll soon be re-entering the auto focus game. -Dave-

Response:

Question:

Hey all (first off, feel free to correct me in any respect) Not too long ago I posted asking about using studio flash…well, I have another question that just occurred to me. As I understand it studio type flashes traditionally connect to a camera via a PC cable. I’ve noticed that many of the new SLRs out there don’t have PC connectors, just hotshoes (and dedicated, at that). So is it possible to use a studio flash with a newer body, ie with some sort of hotshoe adapter? The reason I ask this is that although I still haven’t got a studio flash system I would like to at some point; I’m also thinking about upgrading to a more modern camera. I use a wonderful old Nikkormat FT2 with three non-AI Nikkor lenses now, but I kinda feel an itching for something more modern technologically, that will take modern lenses (I’m thinking a Nikon N80 or equiv), but would still like to be able to use it as a studio camera eventually. Maybe I should just get an FM2n instead… :-) thx Billy S. — William J. Spiropoulos, Cowtown eccentric extraordinaire please remove the obvious spamblocker to email me

Response:

There are many hot-shoe to PC adaptors.  Most are cheap, crappy and will fail at the worst possible moment.  The Nikon AS-15 is cheap and good.  It has a screw to lock it to the hot-shoe.  Some studio flashes use a trigger voltage that can fry some modern SLR’s, but there is a product called a Safe Sync made by Wein, which is a hot-shoe to PC adaptor combined with a voltage protection ciruit. Lisa – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey all (first off, feel free to correct me in any respect) Not too long ago I posted asking about using studio flash…well, I have another question that just occurred to me. As I understand it studio type flashes traditionally connect to a camera via a PC cable. I’ve noticed that many of the new SLRs out there don’t have PC connectors, just hotshoes (and dedicated, at that). So is it possible to use a studio flash with a newer body, ie with some sort of hotshoe adapter? The reason I ask this is that although I still haven’t got a studio flash system I would like to at some point; I’m also thinking about upgrading to a more modern camera. I use a wonderful old Nikkormat FT2 with three non-AI Nikkor lenses now, but I kinda feel an itching for something more modern technologically, that will take modern lenses (I’m thinking a Nikon N80 or equiv), but would still like to be able to use it as a studio camera eventually. Maybe I should just get an FM2n instead… :-) thx Billy S. — William J. Spiropoulos, Cowtown eccentric extraordinaire please remove the obvious spamblocker to email me

Response:

Don’t know about Nikon but some of the new Canon’s (my EOS 3, for instance) have PC connectors.  The hot shoe adaptor is also an option, although you have to be careful of the voltage with newer cameras.  And using a shoe mounted flash to trigger a slave attached to your strobes is another option. Paul – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey all (first off, feel free to correct me in any respect) Not too long ago I posted asking about using studio flash…well, I have another question that just occurred to me. As I understand it studio type flashes traditionally connect to a camera via a PC cable. I’ve noticed that many of the new SLRs out there don’t have PC connectors, just hotshoes (and dedicated, at that). So is it possible to use a studio flash with a newer body, ie with some sort of hotshoe adapter? The reason I ask this is that although I still haven’t got a studio flash system I would like to at some point; I’m also thinking about upgrading to a more modern camera. I use a wonderful old Nikkormat FT2 with three non-AI Nikkor lenses now, but I kinda feel an itching for something more modern technologically, that will take modern lenses (I’m thinking a Nikon N80 or equiv), but would still like to be able to use it as a studio camera eventually. Maybe I should just get an FM2n instead… :-) thx Billy S. — William J. Spiropoulos, Cowtown eccentric extraordinaire please remove the obvious spamblocker to email me

Response:

Don’t know about Nikon but some of the new Canon’s (my EOS 3, for instance) have PC connectors.  

I think the higher level Nikons all have PC–F5, F100, that sort. The N-series (except for the N90, which I’m not sure if they still make) do not. And I think all the old manual Nikons have them. The hot shoe adaptor is also an option, although you have to be careful of the voltage with newer cameras.  And using a shoe mounted flash to trigger a slave attached to your strobes is another option.

Ok, I think I follow…slaves fire when they see another flash go off, correct? But can I assume that a shoe mounted flash will necessarily be pointed at the subject (which I may not always want)? Not trying to be a pain here, just want to understand all this… thanks Billy S.

Response:

There are many hot-shoe to PC adaptors.  Most are cheap, crappy and will fail at the worst possible moment.  The Nikon AS-15 is cheap and good.  It has a screw to lock it to the hot-shoe.  Some studio flashes use a trigger voltage that can fry some modern SLR’s, but there is a product called a Safe Sync made by Wein, which is a hot-shoe to PC adaptor combined with a voltage protection ciruit. Lisa

Thanks for the info, Lisa! I suspected there might be adapters out there, but I didn’t really know anything about them. regards, Billy S.

Response:

Not too long ago I posted asking about using studio flash…well, I have another question that just occurred to me. As I understand it studio type flashes traditionally connect to a camera via a PC cable.  I’ve noticed that many of the new SLRs out there don’t have PC connectors, just hotshoes (and dedicated, at that). So is it possible to use a studio flash with a newer body, ie with some sort of hotshoe adapter?

Doing so via an adapter is quick and easy.  Beware: some studio flash systems may have high trigger voltages, and some modern cameras can’t take that.  See    http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/mf/flash.html Sync cords are cumbersome at best, and they can be downright dangerous with monolights, since they’re plugged in to that heavy light up high on a stand, so that when (not if) you trip over them, you’ll bring something heavy and expensive crashing down. A far handier way to trigger studio flash systems is to mount a cheap, small modern flash on your hotshoe, set it to manual low power so it will recycle quickly, and tape a piece of wratten #87 IR gel across it to block all the visible light while passing infrared.  This will trigger your studio flash system’s slave unit(s) with no messy cords and no worries about sync voltages. The reason I ask this is that although I still haven’t got a studio flash system I would like to at some point; I’m also thinking about upgrading to a more modern camera. I use a wonderful old Nikkormat FT2 with three non-AI Nikkor lenses now, but I kinda feel an itching for something more modern technologically, that will take modern lenses (I’m thinking a Nikon N80 or equiv), but would still like to be able to use it as a studio camera eventually. Maybe I should just get an FM2n instead… :-)

Even if you get a new camera, keep your FT2.  It’s very nearly as fine a studio camera as they make in 35mm, and you can use it with virtually any Nikkor lens ever made (no worries about meter coupling in the studio).  Nothing wrong with an FM2n, either.  In the studio, a new camera’s electronics are pretty useless. –Rich Before you buy.

Response:

(snip) But can I assume that a shoe mounted flash will necessarily be pointed at the subject (which I may not always want)? Not trying to be a pain here, just want to understand all this…

The flash doesn’t have to be aimed at the subject. It could be bounced from the ceiling or wall, as long as the slave can "see" the flash. I did a portrait shoot once with my 8008s and forgot the PC adapter. I used a white card held by an assistant to bounce the on-camera flash toward the slave on the pack (which was behind and to the right of me). You probably wouldn’t want the on-camera flash to point at the subject anyway. This will add another highlight (catchlight) to the eyes (I hate when I see this in ads, it says the photographer has no idea of how to light a subject). Richard

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – (snip) But can I assume that a shoe mounted flash will necessarily be pointed at the subject (which I may not always want)? Not trying to be a pain here, just want to understand all this… The flash doesn’t have to be aimed at the subject. It could be bounced from the ceiling or wall, as long as the slave can "see" the flash. I did a portrait shoot once with my 8008s and forgot the PC adapter. I used a white card held by an assistant to bounce the on-camera flash toward the slave on the pack (which was behind and to the right of me). You probably wouldn’t want the on-camera flash to point at the subject anyway. This will add another highlight (catchlight) to the eyes (I hate when I see this in ads, it says the photographer has no idea of how to light a subject). Richard

  On occasion I have draped the off-camera cord, with the flash on the end, over my shoulder. With it pointing at the wall behind me, it has successfully set off the slaves, while adding essentially no light to the mix, as the small flash I used was doing a ten foot, then bounce, then back the ten feet just to reach my camera position. — Digital photo restoration in autumnal Chapel Hill NC http://www.homeusers.prestel.co.uk/magor/tony New – A Digital Workflow + Sharpness: Threat or Menace? And Selecting Your First SLR  - Java must be enabled Before you buy.

Response:

On  2-Dec-2000, "William J. Spiropoulos"  Some studio flashes use a trigger voltage that can fry some modern SLR’s, but there is a product called a Safe Sync made by Wein, which is a hot-shoe to PC adaptor combined with a voltage protection ciruit. Lisa

Lisa is right about PC adaptors failing at the worst possible moment. So, if you’re going this route, buy several…  you won’t regret it. On the subject of the Wein Safe-Sync, they fail, too. I had one that broke at the point where the PC Cord connects to it. This was at a critical moment right before the bride was about to walk down the aisle. In the few precious seconds I had to shoot, I quickly reached down into my bag and switched out to a cheaper adapter I had as a backup.  Whew!!  Talk about dodging a "bullet".  I was SWEATING them for what seemed wayyyyy longer than it actually was. MORAL: ALWAYS keep several backups (cords, adapters, batteries, flashes, etc). Felix,  Ft Worth, TX      Featuring the worlds only Anonymous Usenet Server

Response:

Good points Gene.  Another alternative (which I use) is infrared wireless triggers.  While they do have disadvantages compared to radio slaves (like can’t go through walls or anything that blocks light) they do have the advantage of being economical.  I think the Wein SSRjr trigger and slave kit is under $100. My only problem with wireless hotshoe triggers is when I turn the camera vertical.  The trigger blocks my non-camera eye, the one I use to make eye contact with the person I’m photographing:) Lisa – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – On  2-Dec-2000, "William J. Spiropoulos"  Some studio flashes use a trigger voltage that can fry some modern SLR’s, but there is a product called a Safe Sync made by Wein, which is a hot-shoe to PC adaptor combined with a voltage protection ciruit. Lisa Lisa is right about PC adaptors failing at the worst possible moment. So, if you’re going this route, buy several…  you won’t regret it. This is an exercise in futility.  When PC tipped flash sync cords fail, it is NOT because there is something wrong with the wiring inside the cord.  The problem is with the poor design of the PC connector inself.  By the way, "PC" is an anconym which means "poor contact."  Seriously, "PC" stands for Prontor/Compur, which is a type of shutter which was first used by the Carl Zeiss company back in the 1930s.  So we can accurately guess about where to place the blame for this curse against flash photography. For many years, the Japanese manufactures refused to refer to this as a "PC" connector in their literature, instead they usually called it a "German" connector – implying it was shit and that they could have designed something better.  Indeed, over the years the Japanese have offered several alternatives for a flash sync terminal – but none seem to have caught on.  By eliminating the PC terminal from some 35mm SLRs, the Japanese have forced SLR users to use one of the several alternaternatives – and thereby doing users a big favor. A PC connector tip has a male and a female electrical connection. Like all electrical connectors, these tend to oxidize over time.  The oxidation which forms on the metal surfaces acts as an insulator, which breaks the electrical connection. The problem with PC connectors is that they are so small that there is no way to clean the oxidation away from the inside of the metal surfaces.  If the PC connector on the cord is oxidized, it can’t be cleaned – so replacing it is the only alternative.  But even a brand new cord is almost as likely to have oxidized PC connector tips – unless you buy the kind that are gold plated. If (when) the PC connector on your camera, or the adapter you slide into your hot shoe – such as the Nikon AS-15 or the Wein Safe-Sync get oxidized – you can replace sync cords until the cows come home and your problem won’t be solved. There are several ways of cleaning the contact surfaces of PC connectors, which involve use of solvents and/or abrasion same as all electrical contacts.  Unfortunately, these remedies don’t work very well or last very long.  The problem is that the PC connector was designed from the beginning with the contact surfaces between male and female being made too small.  The contact surfaces do not involve enough area for the normal abrasion created by normal insertion and removal to scrape away the oxidation.  So any "cure" for poor electrical contact can be only temporary. For only occasional and lame amateur usage, PC flash sync connections may be satisfactory if one can live with the problems of intermittance.  But if reliable flash sync is a requirement, PC terminals are simply unsat. A better solution is to rely on hot shoe flash sync connections, rather than the PC terminal.  Paramount Cords manufacturers flash sync cords which have a plug that slides directly into the camera’s hot shoe.  As the contact pin on the plug scrapes across the central terminal within the hot shoe, it "ploughs through" the built-up oxidation and makes a reliable electrical contact.  B&H Photo sells these Paramount flash sync cords, with a hot shoe connector on the end that connects to the camera, for about $20.  They can be ordered directly from the factory in custom lengths for about $10 more. For studio flash outfits, Paramount can custom manufacture a sync cord with any type of connector in any length you want – and the hot shoe connector on the camera end.  Alternatively, the Bogen Pocket Wizard Plus radio slave transmitter slides into the camera’s hot shoe and is triggered by the hot shoe.  If your remote flashes have optical slaves, they can be triggered with a small, shoe mounted flash on the camera with a Wratten infrared gel taped over the flash tube. In summary, nobody uses PC connectors for flash sync unless they are a masochist and thrive on embarrassment and frustration.  There are simply too many other better alternatives.

Response:

On  2-Dec-2000, "William J. Spiropoulos"  Some studio flashes use a trigger voltage that can fry some modern SLR’s, but there is a product called a Safe Sync made by Wein, which is a hot-shoe to PC adaptor combined with a voltage protection ciruit. Lisa Lisa is right about PC adaptors failing at the worst possible moment. So, if you’re going this route, buy several…  you won’t regret it.

This is an exercise in futility.  When PC tipped flash sync cords fail, it is NOT because there is something wrong with the wiring inside the cord.  The problem is with the poor design of the PC connector inself.  By the way, "PC" is an anconym which means "poor contact."  Seriously, "PC" stands for Prontor/Compur, which is a type of shutter which was first used by the Carl Zeiss company back in the 1930s.  So we can accurately guess about where to place the blame for this curse against flash photography.   For many years, the Japanese manufactures refused to refer to this as a "PC" connector in their literature, instead they usually called it a "German" connector – implying it was shit and that they could have designed something better.  Indeed, over the years the Japanese have offered several alternatives for a flash sync terminal – but none seem to have caught on.  By eliminating the PC terminal from some 35mm SLRs, the Japanese have forced SLR users to use one of the several alternaternatives – and thereby doing users a big favor. A PC connector tip has a male and a female electrical connection. Like all electrical connectors, these tend to oxidize over time.  The oxidation which forms on the metal surfaces acts as an insulator, which breaks the electrical connection. The problem with PC connectors is that they are so small that there is no way to clean the oxidation away from the inside of the metal surfaces.  If the PC connector on the cord is oxidized, it can’t be cleaned – so replacing it is the only alternative.  But even a brand new cord is almost as likely to have oxidized PC connector tips – unless you buy the kind that are gold plated. If (when) the PC connector on your camera, or the adapter you slide into your hot shoe – such as the Nikon AS-15 or the Wein Safe-Sync get oxidized – you can replace sync cords until the cows come home and your problem won’t be solved. There are several ways of cleaning the contact surfaces of PC connectors, which involve use of solvents and/or abrasion same as all electrical contacts.  Unfortunately, these remedies don’t work very well or last very long.  The problem is that the PC connector was designed from the beginning with the contact surfaces between male and female being made too small.  The contact surfaces do not involve enough area for the normal abrasion created by normal insertion and removal to scrape away the oxidation.  So any "cure" for poor electrical contact can be only temporary. For only occasional and lame amateur usage, PC flash sync connections may be satisfactory if one can live with the problems of intermittance.  But if reliable flash sync is a requirement, PC terminals are simply unsat. A better solution is to rely on hot shoe flash sync connections, rather than the PC terminal.  Paramount Cords manufacturers flash sync cords which have a plug that slides directly into the camera’s hot shoe.  As the contact pin on the plug scrapes across the central terminal within the hot shoe, it "ploughs through" the built-up oxidation and makes a reliable electrical contact.  B&H Photo sells these Paramount flash sync cords, with a hot shoe connector on the end that connects to the camera, for about $20.  They can be ordered directly from the factory in custom lengths for about $10 more. For studio flash outfits, Paramount can custom manufacture a sync cord with any type of connector in any length you want – and the hot shoe connector on the camera end.  Alternatively, the Bogen Pocket Wizard Plus radio slave transmitter slides into the camera’s hot shoe and is triggered by the hot shoe.  If your remote flashes have optical slaves, they can be triggered with a small, shoe mounted flash on the camera with a Wratten infrared gel taped over the flash tube. In summary, nobody uses PC connectors for flash sync unless they are a masochist and thrive on embarrassment and frustration.  There are simply too many other better alternatives.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – On  2-Dec-2000, "William J. Spiropoulos"  Some studio flashes use a trigger voltage that can fry some modern SLR’s, but there is a product called a Safe Sync made by Wein, which is a hot-shoe to PC adaptor combined with a voltage protection ciruit. Lisa Lisa is right about PC adaptors failing at the worst possible moment. So, if you’re going this route, buy several…  you won’t regret it. This is an exercise in futility.  When PC tipped flash sync cords fail, it is NOT because there is something wrong with the wiring inside the cord.  The problem is with the poor design of the PC connector inself.  By the way, "PC" is an anconym which means "poor contact."  Seriously, "PC" stands for Prontor/Compur, which is a type of shutter which was first used by the Carl Zeiss company back in the 1930s.  So we can accurately guess about where to place the blame for this curse against flash photography. For many years, the Japanese manufactures refused to refer to this as a "PC" connector in their literature, instead they usually called it a "German" connector – implying it was shit and that they could have designed something better.  Indeed, over the years the Japanese have offered several alternatives for a flash sync terminal – but none seem to have caught on.  By eliminating the PC terminal from some 35mm SLRs, the Japanese have forced SLR users to use one of the several alternaternatives – and thereby doing users a big favor. A PC connector tip has a male and a female electrical connection. Like all electrical connectors, these tend to oxidize over time.  The oxidation which forms on the metal surfaces acts as an insulator, which breaks the electrical connection. The problem with PC connectors is that they are so small that there is no way to clean the oxidation away from the inside of the metal surfaces.  If the PC connector on the cord is oxidized, it can’t be cleaned – so replacing it is the only alternative.  But even a brand new cord is almost as likely to have oxidized PC connector tips – unless you buy the kind that are gold plated. If (when) the PC connector on your camera, or the adapter you slide into your hot shoe – such as the Nikon AS-15 or the Wein Safe-Sync get oxidized – you can replace sync cords until the cows come home and your problem won’t be solved. There are several ways of cleaning the contact surfaces of PC connectors, which involve use of solvents and/or abrasion same as all electrical contacts.  Unfortunately, these remedies don’t work very well or last very long.  The problem is that the PC connector was designed from the beginning with the contact surfaces between male and female being made too small.  The contact surfaces do not involve enough area for the normal abrasion created by normal insertion and removal to scrape away the oxidation.  So any "cure" for poor electrical contact can be only temporary. For only occasional and lame amateur usage, PC flash sync connections may be satisfactory if one can live with the problems of intermittance.  But if reliable flash sync is a requirement, PC terminals are simply unsat. A better solution is to rely on hot shoe flash sync connections, rather than the PC terminal.  Paramount Cords manufacturers flash sync cords which have a plug that slides directly into the camera’s hot shoe.  As the contact pin on the plug scrapes across the central terminal within the hot shoe, it "ploughs through" the built-up oxidation and makes a reliable electrical contact.  B&H Photo sells these Paramount flash sync cords, with a hot shoe connector on the end that connects to the camera, for about $20.  They can be ordered directly from the factory in custom lengths for about $10 more. For studio flash outfits, Paramount can custom manufacture a sync cord with any type of connector in any length you want – and the hot shoe connector on the camera end.  Alternatively, the Bogen Pocket Wizard Plus radio slave transmitter slides into the camera’s hot shoe and is triggered by the hot shoe.  If your remote flashes have optical slaves, they can be triggered with a small, shoe mounted flash on the camera with a Wratten infrared gel taped over the flash tube. In summary, nobody uses PC connectors for flash sync unless they are a masochist and thrive on embarrassment and frustration.  There are simply too many other better alternatives.

Gene, The best alternitive to high sync voltage and sync cords is a Hot Shoe sync cord with voltage protection in the cord. Go to the Paramount site http://www.paramountcords.com/vp.htm http://www.paramountcords.com

Response:

For many years, the Japanese manufactures refused to refer to this as a "PC" connector in their literature, instead they usually called it a "German" connector – implying it was shit and that they could have designed something better.

In fact, during the same era there WAS a widely-used alternative design that was clearly better: a flash connector little bigger than the PC, but with locking bayonet lugs so it couldn’t pull off, and a spring-loaded center terminal for positive contact. The twist action required to engage the bayonet lugs made it self-wiping, too. It was called the ASA (American Standards Association) flash connector and was standard on US-made and some Japanese equipment. Unfortunately, most serious photographers figured that ANYTHING "made in Germany" had to be better than anything "made in USA," so the well-designed and functional ASA flash contact fell by the wayside and the unreliable, ineptly designed PC contact became the world standard.

Response:

Gene, The best alternitive to high sync voltage and sync cords is a Hot Shoe sync cord with voltage protection in the cord. Go to the Paramount site http://www.paramountcords.com/vp.htm

I agree with you, if one must attach the flash to the camera by wire or wants to avoid the higher-cost, wireless alternatives.  I’ve used Paramount Cords for many years, and highly recommend them.  I think the voltage protected cord is a great new innovation.

Response:

Question:

I realise this may be a bit off-topic for rec.photo.equipment.35mm, and I’m sure it has been asked somewhere before, but the web at my uni has been down for a few days now and I can’t search on deja. So my query is… If slides are best for projection, and print-film best for printing, why have I heard the old story about magazines preferring slides? After all, a magazing produces a ‘print’ in its pages. I shot a few sunsets on E100VS, and had 12" by 16" prints made..  I lost a bit of contrast (it was direct, not cibachrome printing), but they still look great. Would the print look better had I shot it on negative film? Ultimately, I guess my question is, if my only concern is to make large (average 12" by 16"), framed prints for display, is there any real benefit in me shooting  travel/scenic/landscape/outdoor portraits on pro slide film such as Velvia, Provia F, E100VS etc.? If not, maybe I should save my money for better glass! Thanks again, Nick.

Response:

Understood. This is what alot of people have told me. Why then do professionals shoot slide film? A pro landscape photographer sells her/his work for magazines, exhibition prints, etc, and I’ve never heard of a pro travel photographer supporting themselves by charging people to watch a slide show. A major proportion of slides shot by professionals all around the world must eventually end up as a print. If print film is better for prints, why is slide film so popular? Just curious… Nick chalice(at)zip.com.au – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I shot a few sunsets on E100VS, and had 12" by 16" prints made..  I lost a bit of contrast (it was direct, not cibachrome printing), but they still look great. Would the print look better had I shot it on negative film? I would shoot print if that’s what you want.  Some people seem to rave about cibachromes, (which I’ve never tried), but any direct (i.e., no interneg) stuff I’ve ever had done has always been disappointing, and a big waste of time/money IMO.  YMMV. It’s hard to compare, because the way I shoot, I judge a scene by how I’d like to reproduce it, and anything I’d like on a slide will rarely print well, and stuff that prints well doesn’t always make a good slide… k. — Altered Perceptions —Keven Fedirko <image merchant

Response:

I’m sure your print would have been better if you had used negative film. If your goal is prints, shoot negative film. One of the reasons that magazines wanted slides (I’ll bet most are digital these days) is that they’re easier to evaluate; just throw a bunch of them on a lightbox and pick out the ones they want to use.  Slides get converted to negatives (actually 3-color separations) before a printer can use them. Paul

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I realise this may be a bit off-topic for rec.photo.equipment.35mm, and I’m sure it has been asked somewhere before, but the web at my uni has been down for a few days now and I can’t search on deja. So my query is… If slides are best for projection, and print-film best for printing, why have I heard the old story about magazines preferring slides? After all, a magazing produces a ‘print’ in its pages. I shot a few sunsets on E100VS, and had 12" by 16" prints made..  I lost a bit of contrast (it was direct, not cibachrome printing), but they still look great. Would the print look better had I shot it on negative film? Ultimately, I guess my question is, if my only concern is to make large (average 12" by 16"), framed prints for display, is there any real benefit in me shooting  travel/scenic/landscape/outdoor portraits on pro slide film such as Velvia, Provia F, E100VS etc.? If not, maybe I should save my money for better glass! Thanks again, Nick.

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Understood. This is what alot of people have told me. Why then do professionals shoot slide film? A pro landscape photographer sells her/his work for magazines, exhibition prints, etc, and I’ve never heard of a pro travel photographer supporting themselves by charging people to watch a slide show. A major proportion of slides shot by professionals all around the world must eventually end up as a print. If print film is better for prints, why is slide film so popular?

When I sent requests for submission guidelines 2 yearrs ago, teh vast majority of magazine companies were still requesting slides. I’m not sure whether they are easier to work with physically or easier to do color seperations. They are definitely easier to judge in a hurry, since prints can be adjusted. I would suspect that some companies have or will switch over to digital files, and then it won’t matter. But since they request slides, that is what pros will shoot. Meghan Friesians in the Northwest http://www.zoocrewphoto.com/friesian.htm

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Begin Quote  If slides are best for projection, and print-film best for printing, why have I heard the old story about magazines preferring slides? End Quote     Because a magazine image is not a print or a slide it is a magazine print.  The technology used in magazines has changed a lot over the years and some prefer negatives and some prints.  The technology is not the same used for prints from you one hour processor. — Dia ’s Muire duit Joe M

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Begin Quote  I shot a few sunsets on E100VS, and had 12" by 16" prints made..  I lost a bit of contrast (it was direct, not cibachrome printing), but they still look great. Would the print look better had I shot it on negative film? End Quote     It would have looked different.  You might have liked it more or less.  This is getting out of science of photography where you get answers and into the art where you get opinions.  Why not get a roll of slide film and a roll of negative film.  Take a serious of like photographs and have a couple of pairs of prints made.  That way you can evaluate the difference for yourself.  Keep in mind that you may need to tweak your technique for the new media to get the best out of it, but it should give you an idea. — Dia ’s Muire duit Joe M

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I realise this may be a bit off-topic for rec.photo.equipment.35mm, and I’m sure it has been asked somewhere before, but the web at my uni has been down for a few days now and I can’t search on deja. So my query is… If slides are best for projection, and print-film best for printing, why have I heard the old story about magazines preferring slides? After all, a magazing produces a ‘print’ in its pages.

Printing with ink is totally different from photographic printing, so even if negatives might be superior for producing photographic prints, this doesn’t translate to any superiority in the totally different process of preparing for ink printing. OTOH, keep in mind that when things are printed in a magazine, quality is typically one of the LEAST important concerns — things like the convenience of being able to glance at a slide and get an idea of whether you’d even get as far as caring about its quality means a lot more in most cases. I shot a few sunsets on E100VS, and had 12" by 16" prints made..  I lost a bit of contrast (it was direct, not cibachrome printing), but they still look great. Would the print look better had I shot it on negative film?

You _lost_ contrast?  This sounds VERY strange — the most common problem with prints from slides is that the contrast increases to the point that only rather flat, boring looking slides really print well as a rule. Ultimately, I guess my question is, if my only concern is to make large (average 12" by 16"), framed prints for display, is there any real benefit in me shooting  travel/scenic/landscape/outdoor portraits on pro slide film such as Velvia, Provia F, E100VS etc.? If not, maybe I should save my money for better glass!

While slide film is more expensive, processing is cheaper, at least a a rule.  If you only care about prints from a small percentage of the shots,  slides will typically end up cheaper to shoot. In any case, it’s ultimately up to you — if you don’t see an advantage to slide film, and you end up paying no more to use print film instead, then you might as well shoot print film.  It’s certainly a LOT easier to get at least reasonable results with print film than with slides… —     Later,     Jerry. The Universe is a figment of its own imagination.

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   It would have looked different.  You might have liked it more or less.  This is getting out of science of photography where you get answers and into the art where you get opinions.  Why not get a roll of slide film and a roll of negative film.  Take a serious of like photographs and have a couple of pairs of prints made.  That way you can evaluate the difference for yourself.  Keep in mind that you may need to tweak your technique for the new media to get the best out of it, but it should give you an idea.

Also keep in mind the different types of film within a media. I did some sunset photos with horses. I used two different types of slide film and got very different results. It was obvious that one was a warmer film and one was a cooler film. I would not use the cooler film again for a sunset, but it would be great for a stormy scene.   Meghan Friesians in the Northwest http://www.zoocrewphoto.com/friesian.htm

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The term "print" is a little different with magazines.  You are talking about a photographic print or a print made on photographic paper.  Print film will always provide better results.  Magazines in the old days photographed chromes with a copy camera to produce color separations which were then used to apply ink to paper (not photographic paper.)  Today we usually scan the chromes digitally and then use the digital code to control the presses instead of separations.  In either case chromes provide better images for the purpose.  I don’t want to get into an argument because I don’t have time but just take my word for it that chromes are better for making separations either in an analog or digital fashion.  Good shooting. Fred Maplewood Photography – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If slides are best for projection, and print-film best for printing, why have I heard the old story about magazines preferring slides? After all, a magazing produces a ‘print’ in its pages.

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I guess I have it in my head that all serious outdoor photographers (excepting weddings, B+W etc) shoot slide film. My scenario is that I am about to go travelling – East Coast USA then Asia. Would a travel photographer wanting to make fairly large prints of photographs with strong, accurate colours, fine grain and sharpness shoot slide film like kodachrome, velvia etc, or would they pack RG 100, Supra, Portra etc? If print film, would they use a "warmer" print film for sunsets? Printing from slides IS expensive. But so many people rave (on these newsgroups at least) about the quality of Velvia, Kodachrome, E100VS etc, that a good proportion of them must be getting prints from them that are as good, if not better, than corresponding print film. I know I should test myself, but right now I’m without a camera, so I thought I’d ask first! Why do YOU shoot slides? For projection? For publication? Only slightly perplexed, Nick – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –    It would have looked different.  You might have liked it more or less.  This is getting out of science of photography where you get answers and into the art where you get opinions.  Why not get a roll of slide film and a roll of negative film.  Take a serious of like photographs and have a couple of pairs of prints made.  That way you can evaluate the difference for yourself.  Keep in mind that you may need to tweak your technique for the new media to get the best out of it, but it should give you an idea. Also keep in mind the different types of film within a media. I did some sunset photos with horses. I used two different types of slide film and got very different results. It was obvious that one was a warmer film and one was a cooler film. I would not use the cooler film again for a sunset, but it would be great for a stormy scene. Meghan Friesians in the Northwest http://www.zoocrewphoto.com/friesian.htm

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One quick answer will be the Grain. Slide has finer grain than the negatives which lead to sharper image (no, not that company:-) ). But it is actually: portable, easier to store (you can throw the one that you don’t like) and most of all, proof that you are a good shooter since you can’t do anything once you release the shutter (yes you can with photoshop, but still). Those above are enuff reasons to shoot slide. Jon – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I realise this may be a bit off-topic for rec.photo.equipment.35mm, and I’m sure it has been asked somewhere before, but the web at my uni has been down for a few days now and I can’t search on deja. So my query is… If slides are best for projection, and print-film best for printing, why have I heard the old story about magazines preferring slides? After all, a magazing produces a ‘print’ in its pages. I shot a few sunsets on E100VS, and had 12" by 16" prints made..  I lost a bit of contrast (it was direct, not cibachrome printing), but they still look great. Would the print look better had I shot it on negative film? Ultimately, I guess my question is, if my only concern is to make large (average 12" by 16"), framed prints for display, is there any real benefit in me shooting  travel/scenic/landscape/outdoor portraits on pro slide film such as Velvia, Provia F, E100VS etc.? If not, maybe I should save my money for better glass! Thanks again, Nick.

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[snip] Why do YOU shoot slides? For projection? For publication?

[snip] Mainly projection. Hey, you can’t blow up a picture up to 1.8 m (70 inch). It’s fantastic!! And the colors… The other main factor, why I’m using slides is, that nobody is messing around with my results… (Sure they could mess up during the developing of the slides and ruined them… but so far never happend to me luckely) Sure sometimes, I make a print of a slide. The prints are quite good. But, it’s still not the same as a projection. -Leonhard

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Meghan could you tell the film name and brand. warm=? cold=? It may help somebody. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Also keep in mind the different types of film within a media. I did some sunset photos with horses. I used two different types of slide film and got very different results. It was obvious that one was a warmer film and one was a cooler film. I would not use the cooler film again for a sunset, but it would be great for a stormy scene. Meghan Friesians in the Northwest http://www.zoocrewphoto.com/friesian.htm

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I guess I have it in my head that all serious outdoor photographers (excepting weddings, B+W etc) shoot slide film. My scenario is that I am about to go travelling – East Coast USA then Asia. Would a travel photographer wanting to make fairly large prints of photographs with strong, accurate colours, fine grain and sharpness shoot slide film like kodachrome, velvia etc, or would they pack RG 100, Supra, Portra etc? If print film, would they use a "warmer" print film for sunsets?

At this point in time, I doubt you’d find many people who’d pack Kodachrome under many circumstances at all — offhand, I can’t think of a situation in which Kodachrome would be any longer be my film of choice. Personally, for travel photos I’d probably take Provia 100F — it’s fairly neutral in color rendition, has good saturation, it’s sharp and VERY fine-grained.  I’d probably take at least a few rolls of Velvia as well — when you’ve got plenty of light (or can use a tripod) and want _really_ saturated colors, it’s definitely the best there is. It’s been over 10 years since I shot enough Kodak film to notice, so I can’t honestly comment much on it.  I don’t shoot print film enough to notice either, but my immediate reaction is that worrying much about a print film’s color balance is basically silly: they can adjust the color balance enough during printing to make things look cold, warm, or just about anything else you like.  Completely accidental differences in color balance from mini-labs is often much larger than the differences between different slide films. —     Later,     Jerry. The Universe is a figment of its own imagination.

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Nick, if you take some opinion from an amateur. Lately I’ve been discussing this issue too with a lot of professionals. The way I see it: If I take negatives I need to build up an equipment that gives myself control over output: film scanner and photo inkjet printer. Results from labs are unreliable, sometimes even trash. Right now I do a lot of experimenting for the right combination of film and lab. Anyway I need a lab for (photographic) printing most of my work because it takes too much time scanning and inkjet-printing all the shots. I will try slides ("dias" as we say here in Germany) especially for nature photography and holiday shooting. Literally _all_ photos in a German magazine called "NaturFoto", which I have here on my desktop, are made with slides (mostly Fujiichrome Sensia, Velvia or Provia). As far as I see it the labs can do no or not so much wrong when developing. Many pros adviced me to take slides for the purpose of nature photography. Professional prints from slides are expensive but look _very_ good. Well, as I said, still learning with my new F80. Peter Nick Davis schrieb: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I realise this may be a bit off-topic for rec.photo.equipment.35mm, and I’m sure it has been asked somewhere before, but the web at my uni has been down for a few days now and I can’t search on deja. So my query is… If slides are best for projection, and print-film best for printing, why have I heard the old story about magazines preferring slides? After all, a magazing produces a ‘print’ in its pages. I shot a few sunsets on E100VS, and had 12" by 16" prints made..  I lost a bit of contrast (it was direct, not cibachrome printing), but they still look great. Would the print look better had I shot it on negative film? Ultimately, I guess my question is, if my only concern is to make large (average 12" by 16"), framed prints for display, is there any real benefit in me shooting  travel/scenic/landscape/outdoor portraits on pro slide film such as Velvia, Provia F, E100VS etc.? If not, maybe I should save my money for better glass! Thanks again, Nick.

– Privat: http://www.eisenburger.de Job: http://www.gelbeshaus.de

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Fred, If a chrome and a finished print of the same image were sent to a magazine for publication, which do you think would separate better for the final image in the magazine? Jeff

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The term "print" is a little different with magazines.  You are talking about a photographic print or a print made on photographic paper.  Print film will always provide better results.  Magazines in the old days photographed chromes with a copy camera to produce color separations which were then used to apply ink to paper (not photographic paper.)  Today we usually scan the chromes digitally and then use the digital code to control the presses instead of separations.  In either case chromes provide better images for the purpose.  I don’t want to get into an argument because I don’t have time but just take my word for it that chromes are better for making separations either in an analog or digital fashion.  Good shooting. Fred Maplewood Photography If slides are best for projection, and print-film best for printing, why have I heard the old story about magazines preferring slides? After all, a magazing produces a ‘print’ in its pages.

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Hi Nick, Having done both cibachrome and color negative printing, I can tell you that printing from a color negative is much easier as well as much cheaper.  The main problems with printing directly from slides are: (1) the extremely high contrast of the paper; (2) the extremely long exposure times.  If you have a lot of time and money, go for the slides.  Otherwise, if a print is the ultimate goal, use color negatives.  Oh, yes, you can always make internegatives from slides on to color negative film, but that defeats the purpose of your choice at this stage. Francis A. Miniter – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I realise this may be a bit off-topic for rec.photo.equipment.35mm, and I’m sure it has been asked somewhere before, but the web at my uni has been down for a few days now and I can’t search on deja. So my query is… If slides are best for projection, and print-film best for printing, why have I heard the old story about magazines preferring slides? After all, a magazing produces a ‘print’ in its pages. I shot a few sunsets on E100VS, and had 12" by 16" prints made..  I lost a bit of contrast (it was direct, not cibachrome printing), but they still look great. Would the print look better had I shot it on negative film? Ultimately, I guess my question is, if my only concern is to make large (average 12" by 16"), framed prints for display, is there any real benefit in me shooting  travel/scenic/landscape/outdoor portraits on pro slide film such as Velvia, Provia F, E100VS etc.? If not, maybe I should save my money for better glass! Thanks again, Nick.

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Or find a place that has a Fuji Frontier digital minilab.  Most busier Ritz camera’s have them now.  They can do great looking prints from slides in 1 hour and economically ($0.99 for 4×6, same price as from negatives for larger prints, up to 10"x15"). Mark : Hi Nick, : Having done both cibachrome and color negative printing, I can tell you that : printing from a color negative is much easier as well as much cheaper.  The : main problems with printing directly from slides are: (1) the extremely high : contrast of the paper; (2) the extremely long exposure times.  If you have a : lot of time and money, go for the slides.  Otherwise, if a print is the : ultimate goal, use color negatives.  Oh, yes, you can always make : internegatives from slides on to color negative film, but that defeats the : purpose of your choice at this stage. : Francis A. Miniter

: I realise this may be a bit off-topic for rec.photo.equipment.35mm, and : I’m sure it has been asked somewhere before, but the web at my uni has : been down for a few days now and I can’t search on deja. So my query : is… : : If slides are best for projection, and print-film best for printing, why : have I heard the old story about magazines preferring slides? After all, : a magazing produces a ‘print’ in its pages. : : I shot a few sunsets on E100VS, and had 12" by 16" prints made..  I lost : a bit of contrast (it was direct, not cibachrome printing), but they : still look great. Would the print look better had I shot it on negative : film? : : Ultimately, I guess my question is, if my only concern is to make large : (average 12" by 16"), framed prints for display, is there any real : benefit in me shooting  travel/scenic/landscape/outdoor portraits on pro : slide film such as Velvia, Provia F, E100VS etc.? If not, maybe I should : save my money for better glass! : : Thanks again, : : Nick.

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I guess I have it in my head that all serious outdoor photographers (excepting weddings, B+W etc) shoot slide film. My scenario is that I am about to go travelling – East Coast USA then Asia. Would a travel photographer wanting to make fairly large prints of photographs with strong, accurate colours, fine grain and sharpness shoot slide film like kodachrome, velvia etc, or would they pack RG 100, Supra, Portra etc? If print film, would they use a "warmer" print film for sunsets? At this point in time, I doubt you’d find many people who’d pack Kodachrome under many circumstances at all — offhand, I can’t think of a situation in which Kodachrome would be any longer be my film of choice.

There are still lots of railfans who shoot nothing but Kodachromes.  I have much better luck with Ektrachrome E100S and E100VS but to each their own.  Those I know who shoot Kodachromes insist that nothing does a better job on reds and yellows. — Kevin Kuehl

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Also keep in mind the different types of film within a media. I did some sunset photos with horses. I used two different types of slide film and got very different results. It was obvious that one was a warmer film and one was a cooler film.

It couldn’t have been due to the rapidly changing light? — http://www.spinics.net/photo

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Printing from slides IS expensive.

Out of curiosity I just checked the prices at a local pro lab.  The price is the same for printing from a negative or a slide. — http://www.spinics.net/photo

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SNIP< Ultimately, I guess my question is, if my only concern is to make large (average 12" by 16"), framed prints for display, is there any real benefit in me shooting  travel/scenic/landscape/outdoor portraits on pro slide film such as Velvia, Provia F, E100VS etc.? If not, maybe I should save my money for better glass!

Normally, I would say if you want prints, use negative film. As you have found, Ilfochromes have contrast problems (masking helps, but I seem to recall that the price goes up). On the other hand … If you are giving a single negative to a printer, and it is of a sunset, you need to provide some guidance to the person making the print. I gave a single negative of a flower to a lab years ago, and the print came back completely wrong because they had no clue what the colors were. When I had a slide printed, the guy running the shop showed me a print he’d torn up because a wooden fence came out lavendar, clearly wrong. He looked at the slide to get the colors right; it _was_ lavendar. By having the source there, he was able to get the color right. Twice. :- — Philip Stripling                | email to the replyto address is presumed http://www.PhilipStripling.com/ | civex.com is read daily.

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[snipped] If slides are best for projection, and print-film best for printing, why have I heard the old story about magazines preferring slides? After all, a magazing produces a ‘print’ in its pages.

Nick, Magazines prefer slides simply because that’s the standard way. No, I’m not being flip here. Decades ago someone somewhere decided to base their reproductions on positive images (a slide is a positive), rather than negative images. That practice spread. It could easily have gone the other way. Now the industry is geared to commercial color positives for magazines, billboards, catalogues, etc. Could a magazine reproduce a color negative for their pages? Sure. But the press processes are designed to use a positive, so anything else would be costly for them. The print that ends up in a magazine isn’t the same kind of print you’d typically hold in your hand. Magazines take the positive and make spearation negs from it. These separations are then used for the magazine reproduction, which uses ink. Separations from a positive can be used to make a traditional photo, too, but making a high-class print using top-notch separations costs a LOT of money if you can’t do it yourself. It’s the best way to make a print from a positive, though. Making and printing separations is an art form of its own. Go to some museums and art exhibits that show photography. Sooner or later you’ll come across some photos that were made using this process. I shot a few sunsets on E100VS, and had 12" by 16" prints made..  I lost a bit of contrast (it was direct, not cibachrome printing), but they still look great. Would the print look better had I shot it on negative film? Ultimately, I guess my question is, if my only concern is to make large (average 12" by 16"), framed prints for display, is there any real benefit in me shooting  travel/scenic/landscape/outdoor portraits on pro slide film such as Velvia, Provia F, E100VS etc.? If not, maybe I should save my money for better glass!

I’d recommend using print film if there’s little or no chance that your color photos will end up being used commercially. Many pros will shoot positives because they know that they can place their images with a stock house. (A stock house is a middleman for photographers and commercial photo users, such as companies, magazines, etc.). So if shooting stock isn’t part of your plan, stick with good color negative film. If you do want to print from slides, try Ilfochrome (www.ilford.com). Ilfochrome is the successor to Cibachrome. It’s not cheap, but the results are good. You can also try having a good, commercial photo lab make an internegative of your slide, and then having that printed. But why spend that extra money, when you can shoot negatives in the first place? (Again assuming your shots won’t end up being used commercially.) If you’re serious about your photos and you can afford printing that’s better than the consumer-level labs, start looking for a commercial photo lab (the kind the pros use). It’ll cost more, yes, but the results will be much better. You don’t have to be a pro to use a commercial photo lab. Look in your phone book for "Photo finsihing–custom laboratories," or something similar. Try a few, and see which one you prefer. G’luck, Chris

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There are still lots of railfans who shoot nothing but Kodachromes.  I have much better luck with Ektrachrome E100S and E100VS but to each their own.  Those I know who shoot Kodachromes insist that nothing does a better job on reds and yellows.

I am not surprised at all by this. The K14 films are still excellent end products. It is, as most know, the processing difficulties that resulted in many, myself included, abandoning it. Provia 100F is the first film that I have no reservations about . . . I no longer miss Kodachrome. Terence A. Danks Nova Scotia, Canada Wildlife and Nature Photography http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/danksta/home.htm

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Understood. This is what alot of people have told me. Why then do professionals shoot slide film? A pro landscape photographer sells her/his work for magazines, exhibition prints, etc, and I’ve never heard of a pro travel photographer supporting themselves by charging people to watch a slide show. A major proportion of slides shot by professionals all around the world must eventually end up as a print. If print film is better for prints, why is slide film so popular? Just curious… Nick chalice(at)zip.com.au

I can’t speak for anyone else, but here is why I shoot slides most of the time: Cost.  I costs a lot less to have a roll of slide film developed and mounted than to have a print film developed and printed.  I only make big enlargements of a few of my best shots. Storage.  I can store slides in a binder where I can easily look for and locate a slide I want to find.  I only have to store the best shots that I want to keep.  With prints I have to keep copies of the good prints somewhere.  Then I have to keep a separate cross referenced file with the negatives.  I also have to store whole strips of negatives when I only really want one of the frames. Control over exposure and colour.  With slides I get back exactly the shot that I took.  With a print I get the labs best guess as to the exposure and colour balance. Prints.  I have found that if you want to push the size limits for prints from 35 mm, the best results are from top of the line digital prints, scanned on a drum scanner and printed on a commercial digital printer.  In my opinion this can get more out of you shot than a photo process from either slides or negatives.  It doesn’t really matter whether you have a slide or a negative scanned, but with a slide the lab has a better idea of what you want the results to look like. Showing your photos.  It is much easier to show projected slides to a group of people than a bunch of prints.  On the other hand it is easier to show prints to one or two people.  Fortunately Fuji machine prints from slides are getting quite reasonable in cost so it does not cost that much to have some 5×7 or 8×12 inch prints made of a selection of your favourite shots. These are more impressive to pass around than 4×6 inch prints. Magazines.  I don’t care what editors want.  I’m an amateur who shoots for the enjoyment of myself and my friends. Scott Elliot http://mypage.direct.ca/s/selliot

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Question:

I know 80 – 400 lenses is not out yet.  I talked to the camera shop, they said both prices are the same.  Which one will be better? thanks.

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I know 80 – 400 lenses is not out yet.  I talked to the camera shop, they said both prices are the same.  Which one will be better?

If I could predict the future like that, I’d be on eTrade right now, not a photo newsgroup… —            Craig Zeni – REPLY TO — clzeni at mindspring dot com                 http://www.mindspring.com/~clzeni/index.html               http://www.trainweb.org/zeniphotos/zenihome.html                Baby, would you eat that there snack cracker in                      your special outfit for me, please?

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We’re on rec.photo.EQUIPMENT.35mm.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I know 80 – 400 lenses is not out yet.  I talked to the camera shop, they said both prices are the same.  Which one will be better? If I could predict the future like that, I’d be on eTrade right now, not a photo newsgroup… —            Craig Zeni – REPLY TO — clzeni at mindspring dot com                 http://www.mindspring.com/~clzeni/index.html       http://www.trainweb.org/zeniphotos/zenihome.html                Baby, would you eat that there snack cracker in                      your special outfit for me, please?

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Maverick, I know 80 – 400 lenses is not out yet.  I talked to the camera shop, they said both prices are the same.  Which one will be better?

Better for what?  Until there are actual samples of the 80-400 for people to test in the field, one can only guess how the image quality of the two lenses will compare.  One is a fast f/2.8 zoom, the other is a slow f/4.5-5.6 zoom with VR (and no one yet knows how well VR will perform in the field). If VR performs as advertised this could be a good lens for those of us who subject ourselves to pelagic wildlife photgraphy – that’s the only situation that I have run into where I have felt "IS" envy. -Scott

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I know that – but you’re asking for somebody to predict the quality of an item that nobody outside of Nikon has seen yet…thus my comment about predicting the future. We’re on rec.photo.EQUIPMENT.35mm. I know 80 – 400 lenses is not out yet.  I talked to the camera shop, they said both prices are the same.  Which one will be better? If I could predict the future like that, I’d be on eTrade right now, not a photo newsgroup…

–            Craig Zeni – REPLY TO — clzeni at mindspring dot com                 http://www.mindspring.com/~clzeni/index.html               http://www.trainweb.org/zeniphotos/zenihome.html                Baby, would you eat that there snack cracker in                      your special outfit for me, please?

Response:

If you need a fast lens (AF speed and constant fast aperture) then get the AF-S 80-200 2.8. If you need VR but don’t need/are about constant fast aperture get the 80-400 VR wrotf: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I know 80 – 400 lenses is not out yet.  I talked to the camera shop, they said both prices are the same.  Which one will be better? thanks.

Response:

Question:

Abbey Camera’s site says that they have it for about $630, silver or black. Is this the deal of the century or what? If Cosina doesn’t sell a shit-load of these then something’s wrong!

I don’t know about the rest of the world but $630. for a camera seems like a lot.  If it were $200. to $250. I would be interested.  Considering the huge over priced pile of old lenses that have been sitting in people’s closets collecting fungus for the past 50 years I would say the only alternative are the new Voigtlander lenses.  It’s nice to see a return of the old time camera styles for nostalgia’s sake but really.  A better deal would be the Olympus OM2000, actually the same cameras as the Bessa-R but in SLR style, made by the same company and a ton of great OM lenses out there (every one based on a Leica design anyway). AF. This I would sincerely doubt, when has Leica ever made a 21mm f/2, a 24mmf/2, a 50mm f/2 macro, a 100mm f/2 and the list goes on and on… To the best of my knowledge Olympus designs its own lenses that are based on its own designs, not Leica. That’s not’s not to say that many of Olympus’s lenses aren’t extremely sharp. Some of them may even be equal to or better than their Leitz counterparts, depending on particular lenses. But where did you get the idea that "every one is based on a Leica design anyway"? This sounds like very wishful thinking or idle speculation to me… Regards and… Viva! If you wish to e-mail me just try and disconnect my brain. Have a thought and go ahead, make my day! "Clifford, on your planet, what color is the sky?" "Roads? Where we’re going we don’t need any roads" "1.21 gigawatts! Do they make that in AA?"

Response:

Post a link, I only see the Bessa-L listed on the site. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Abbey Camera’s site says that they have it for about $630, silver or black. Is this the deal of the century or what? I went over to their store in Philadelphia, but they could only get me one in black and I want silver. So good news for us RF fans, it’s on the way! If Cosina doesn’t sell a shit-load of these then something’s wrong! — TravGlen

Response:

Ok I tried the search technique, yes I see a Bessa-R listed.  But why can one not access it through the standard manufacture’s page.  I’m sorry I don’t think this Camera is available yet.  Cosina, and Thk sites only show the Bessa-L and no the R yet.  I think it is coming but I really wonder if it is in the stores yet… they sure are not advertising it if you have to use search to find it. The Japanese Cosina site has some info on the new release, if you can read Japanese. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Abbey Camera’s site says that they have it for about $630, silver or black. Is this the deal of the century or what? I went over to their store in Philadelphia, but they could only get me one in black and I want silver. So good news for us RF fans, it’s on the way! If Cosina doesn’t sell a shit-load of these then something’s wrong! — TravGlen

Response:

Abbey Camera’s site says that they have it for about $630, silver or black. Is this the deal of the century or what? I went over to their store in Philadelphia, but they could only get me one in black and I want silver. So good news for us RF fans, it’s on the way! If Cosina doesn’t sell a shit-load of these then something’s wrong! — TravGlen

Question: What’s the difference between R and L models? —  S.W. Anderson  "Courage consists not in hazarding without fear,  but in being resolutely minded in a just cause."   — Edward Young

Response:

Question: What’s the difference between R and L models?

Only one major difference, but it’s a big one: The R has a coupled rangefinder plus parallax-compensating framelines for 35mm, 50mm, 75mm and 90mm lenses. The L has no rangefinder, so  you focus by scale and estimation; it’s designed primarily as a body for Cosina/Voigtlander’s super-wide-angle lenses. It’s the addition of the rangefinder/viewfinder system that accounts for the approx. $400 price difference between the L and the R; yes, engineering and assembling a precision rangefinder system really is expensive, which is why they can’t sell the R for the same price as their high-volume SLRs such as the Olympus OM2000. And yes, you can buy an old Leica M for about the same money and get something "proven" — assuming you don’t care about TTL metering (the Bessa-R has it, pre-M5 Leicas don’t) AND that you’ve got plenty of time and leisure to shop around, AND that you’re enough of a Leica expert to know whether the particular used Leica you’re buying is decent or a dog.

Response:

GOTO abbeycamera.comcatalog"Click here to enter"searchvoigtlander & it all comes up. Com’on, get half a brain, will you?

It’s not his brain that’s the problem, it’s Abbey’s website design. The frame with the "Search" button in it doesn’t come up on all browsers, even some that are supposed to be frame-compatible. Current versions of NN or IE should work, though. I’d still like to know whether they actually have these things, or are just listing them in expectation of getting them later.

Response:

Hey TravGlen, Kiss my …..ahh nevermind. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – GOTO abbeycamera.comcatalog"Click here to enter"searchvoigtlander & it all comes up. Com’on, get half a brain, will you? And, yes, they do not sell grey. http://www.abbeycamera.com I could not find it on their web page. I don’t think they sell grey regards, Abbey Camera’s site says that they have it for about $630, silver or black. Is this the deal of the century or what? I went over to their store in Philadelphia, but they could only get me one in black and I want silver. So good news for us RF fans, it’s on the way! If Cosina doesn’t sell a shit-load of these then something’s wrong! More info, please? — When they say they "have it," do they mean "we can put one in your hand right now" or "we can get it pretty soon, we think, maybe"? — And are these direct imports, or through the official US distributor? (HKS Photo, I think.) — What’s the URL of their website? Thanks! — Marc S. Fogel http://www.fogel.net

– Marc S. Fogel http://www.fogel.net

Response:

Actually, I did not do a search.  I looked around the catalogue and did not fin it.  When I did do a search the Bessa-R came up. I think TravGlen: is a little uptight. regards, GOTO abbeycamera.comcatalog"Click here to enter"searchvoigtlander & it all comes up. Com’on, get half a brain, will you? It’s not his brain that’s the problem, it’s Abbey’s website design. The frame with the "Search" button in it doesn’t come up on all browsers, even some that are supposed to be frame-compatible. Current versions of NN or IE should work, though. I’d still like to know whether they actually have these things, or are just listing them in expectation of getting them later.

– Marc S. Fogel http://www.fogel.net

Response:

I’m not sure what you’ve been reading, CC. The Bessa-L includes an onboard lightmeter in the body, you don’t need an accessory light meter. It has no built-in viewfinder or focusing system so it’s best used with the 15mm and 25mm lenses and their viewfinders. It is $249.95 as you stated. The Bessa-R is a new camera, built on a similar chassis, which includes a rangefinder and viewfinder system for 35mm to 90mm lenses. It’s just barely becoming available now. The first prices we’ve seen are about $630 for the Bessa-R body. So, for a Bessa-L with 50mm lens, you’d pay for the body, the lens and the viewfinder. For a Bessa-R with 50mm lens, you’d pay for the body and the lens. You don’t need the accessory light meter for either, that’s for use with other cameras which do not have built in meters. Godfrey – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I earlier today was doing my library reading at our local Borders Books & Music.   I read through several photo mags, and I think I was reading a feature about Bessa in the April issue of Popular Photography.   My memory is getting foggy as I now stare at this monitor screen  :-) For your information: B&H Photo (www.bhphotovideo.com) is advertising Voigtlander Bessa-L body for $249.95 (choice of black or silver). Accessory light meter is $179.95 (black or silver). 50mm f/1.5 aspherical lens is $459.95 (black) or $449.95 (silver). 50mm viewfinder is $169.95 Almost $1060 for a set in basic black. Case/bag is available at extra cost. I’m confused about references in newsgroup about Bessa-L and Bessa-R, I originally thought that posters were making spelling errors.   It does seem a bummer that the viewfinder needs to be removed in order to insert the light meter, but retro seems to be the height of fashion nowadays.

Response:

I earlier today was doing my library reading at our local Borders Books & Music.   I read through several photo mags, and I think I was reading a feature about Bessa in the April issue of Popular Photography.   My memory is getting foggy as I now stare at this monitor screen  :-) For your information: B&H Photo (www.bhphotovideo.com) is advertising Voigtlander Bessa-L body for $249.95 (choice of black or silver). Accessory light meter is $179.95 (black or silver). 50mm f/1.5 aspherical lens is $459.95 (black) or $449.95 (silver). 50mm viewfinder is $169.95 Almost $1060 for a set in basic black. Case/bag is available at extra cost. I’m confused about references in newsgroup about Bessa-L and Bessa-R, I originally thought that posters were making spelling errors.   It does seem a bummer that the viewfinder needs to be removed in order to insert the light meter, but retro seems to be the height of fashion nowadays.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Question: What’s the difference between R and L models? Only one major difference, but it’s a big one: The R has a coupled rangefinder plus parallax-compensating framelines for 35mm, 50mm, 75mm and 90mm lenses. The L has no rangefinder, so  you focus by scale and estimation; it’s designed primarily as a body for Cosina/Voigtlander’s super-wide-angle lenses. It’s the addition of the rangefinder/viewfinder system that accounts for the approx. $400 price difference between the L and the R; yes, engineering and assembling a precision rangefinder system really is expensive, which is why they can’t sell the R for the same price as their high-volume SLRs such as the Olympus OM2000. And yes, you can buy an old Leica M for about the same money and get something "proven" — assuming you don’t care about TTL metering (the Bessa-R has it, pre-M5 Leicas don’t) AND that you’ve got plenty of time and leisure to shop around, AND that you’re enough of a Leica expert to know whether the particular used Leica you’re buying is decent or a dog.

Response:

I have a Bessa-L with the 15 and 25mm lenses.  Will these lenses work on the Bessar-R body with the rangefinder.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m not sure what you’ve been reading, CC. The Bessa-L includes an onboard lightmeter in the body, you don’t need an accessory light meter. It has no built-in viewfinder or focusing system so it’s best used with the 15mm and 25mm lenses and their viewfinders. It is $249.95 as you stated. The Bessa-R is a new camera, built on a similar chassis, which includes a rangefinder and viewfinder system for 35mm to 90mm lenses. It’s just barely becoming available now. The first prices we’ve seen are about $630 for the Bessa-R body. So, for a Bessa-L with 50mm lens, you’d pay for the body, the lens and the viewfinder. For a Bessa-R with 50mm lens, you’d pay for the body and the lens. You don’t need the accessory light meter for either, that’s for use with other cameras which do not have built in meters. Godfrey I earlier today was doing my library reading at our local Borders Books & Music.   I read through several photo mags, and I think I was reading a feature about Bessa in the April issue of Popular Photography.   My memory is getting foggy as I now stare at this monitor screen  :-) For your information: B&H Photo (www.bhphotovideo.com) is advertising Voigtlander Bessa-L body for $249.95 (choice of black or silver). Accessory light meter is $179.95 (black or silver). 50mm f/1.5 aspherical lens is $459.95 (black) or $449.95 (silver). 50mm viewfinder is $169.95 Almost $1060 for a set in basic black. Case/bag is available at extra cost. I’m confused about references in newsgroup about Bessa-L and Bessa-R, I originally thought that posters were making spelling errors.   It does seem a bummer that the viewfinder needs to be removed in order to insert the light meter, but retro seems to be the height of fashion nowadays.

Response:

No rangefinder coupling on the Bessa R since these lenses do not have the focusing cams necessary to couple. Regards, Bob Rosenstein * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

<– And are these direct imports, or through the official US distributor? (HKS Photo, I think.) That’d be THK. See http://www.thkphoto.com/ regards, Henry Posner/B&H Photo-Video http://www.bhphotovideo.com

Response:

<The Bessa-R is NOT the same body as the Olympus OM2000/Nikon FM10/Yashica FX-3 Super 2000. They are related in some aspects of the design (particularly the shutter), but the Bessa-R is much better made. On what do you base this statement? regards, Henry Posner/B&H Photo-Video http://www.bhphotovideo.com

Response:

The 15 and 25 mm lenses will work perfectly on the new Bessa R body.  you use them just like you would on any other body with a coupled rangefinder.  You still have to zone focus them , but that is no real big deal, that is the way you have been using them all along. HTH John – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a Bessa-L with the 15 and 25mm lenses.  Will these lenses work on the Bessar-R body with the rangefinder.

Response:

I would assume that a new camera, from any reputable manufactuer, would be safer then an older Leica. I’ve heard too many stories about guys from the Upper West side suffering injuries from exploding Billinghams; sometimes I could just cry for those boys.  I’m worried sick, as it were.

Response:

<< I would assume that a new camera, from any reputable manufactuer, would be safer then an older Leica. I’ve heard too many stories about guys from the Upper West side suffering injuries from exploding Billinghams; sometimes I could just cry for those boys. Don’t cry for me Argentina… And… Viva! If you wish to e-mail me just try and disconnect my brain. Have a thought and go ahead, make my day! "Clifford, on your planet, what color is the sky?" "Roads? Where we’re going we don’t need any roads" "1.21 gigawatts! Do they make that in AA?"

Response:

<<  I’ve heard too many stories about guys from the Upper West side suffering injuries from exploding Billinghams; sometimes I could just cry for those boys. Don’t cry for me Argentina… And… Viva! Darn! With "Argentina" and "boys" as clues I should have titled my post "The Boys From Brazil"! Adeiu and Heil Pero’n (or Guilianni :-) )… And… Viva! If you wish to e-mail me just try and disconnect my brain. Have a thought and go ahead, make my day! "Clifford, on your planet, what color is the sky?" "Roads? Where we’re going we don’t need any roads" "1.21 gigawatts! Do they make that in AA?"

Response:

JSM I’m not crying for Argentina, its Ecudor I sob for. MF

Response:

Abbey Camera’s site says that they have it for about $630, silver or black. Is this the deal of the century or what? I went over to their store in Philadelphia, but they could only get me one in black and I want silver. So good news for us RF fans, it’s on the way! If Cosina doesn’t sell a shit-load of these then something’s wrong! — TravGlen

Response:

Abbey Camera’s site says that they have it for about $630, silver or black. Is this the deal of the century or what? I went over to their store in Philadelphia, but they could only get me one in black and I want silver. So good news for us RF fans, it’s on the way! If Cosina doesn’t sell a shit-load of these then something’s wrong!

More info, please? — When they say they "have it," do they mean "we can put one in your hand right now" or "we can get it pretty soon, we think, maybe"? — And are these direct imports, or through the official US distributor? (HKS Photo, I think.) — What’s the URL of their website? Thanks!

Response:

http://www.abbeycamera.com I could not find it on their web page. I don’t think they sell grey regards, – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Abbey Camera’s site says that they have it for about $630, silver or black. Is this the deal of the century or what? I went over to their store in Philadelphia, but they could only get me one in black and I want silver. So good news for us RF fans, it’s on the way! If Cosina doesn’t sell a shit-load of these then something’s wrong! More info, please? — When they say they "have it," do they mean "we can put one in your hand right now" or "we can get it pretty soon, we think, maybe"? — And are these direct imports, or through the official US distributor? (HKS Photo, I think.) — What’s the URL of their website? Thanks!

– Marc S. Fogel http://www.fogel.net

Response:

You can get a nice functioning used Leica M2, M3, M4-2 for less than $800 and have something proven.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Abbey Camera’s site says that they have it for about $630, silver or black. Is this the deal of the century or what? If Cosina doesn’t sell a shit-load of these then something’s wrong! I don’t know about the rest of the world but $630. for a camera seems like a lot.  If it were $200. to $250. I would be interested.  Considering the huge over priced pile of old lenses that have been sitting in people’s closets collecting fungus for the past 50 years I would say the only alternative are the new Voigtlander lenses.  It’s nice to see a return of the old time camera styles for nostalgia’s sake but really.  A better deal would be the Olympus OM2000, actually the same cameras as the Bessa-R but in SLR style, made by the same company and a ton of great OM lenses out there (every one based on a Leica design anyway). AF.

Response:

GOTO abbeycamera.comcatalog"Click here to enter"searchvoigtlander & it all comes up. Com’on, get half a brain, will you? And, yes, they do not sell grey. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – http://www.abbeycamera.com I could not find it on their web page. I don’t think they sell grey regards, Abbey Camera’s site says that they have it for about $630, silver or black. Is this the deal of the century or what? I went over to their store in Philadelphia, but they could only get me one in black and I want silver. So good news for us RF fans, it’s on the way! If Cosina doesn’t sell a shit-load of these then something’s wrong! More info, please? — When they say they "have it," do they mean "we can put one in your hand right now" or "we can get it pretty soon, we think, maybe"? — And are these direct imports, or through the official US distributor? (HKS Photo, I think.) — What’s the URL of their website? Thanks! — Marc S. Fogel http://www.fogel.net

Response:

$630 is certainly not cheap. However, for an interchangeable lens rangefinder 35mm camera with a high quality lens line, it’s inexpensive. The Bessa-R is NOT the same body as the Olympus OM2000/Nikon FM10/Yashica FX-3 Super 2000. They are related in some aspects of the design (particularly the shutter), but the Bessa-R is much better made. It doesn’t sound like it appeals to you, but many other folks prefer rangefinder cameras in which market the Bessa-R is a very good deal compared to the Contax G system, Konica RF system and Leica M system, all three of which are more expensive. Those are the only other cameras competing in the 35mm RF marketplace right now. For those who say you can get an M2, M3 or M4 …. Fine, you’re buying a 37-20 year old camera for a little more money. I haven’t seen many of any of them for under $800 recently that were worth buying. Yes, they’re proven and beautiful cameras, but you don’t get the meter, you don’t get a new camera, you don’t get a new camera warranty. Far as I’m concerned, the Bessa-R and its lens line is the best thing to happen in 35mm equipment in many years. A quality, simple, sensible camera with a reasonable price. I’m quite happy with my Leica M6TTL, but I might buy a Bessa-R anyway. I know already that I like the lens line: I have the Heliar 15mm lens, have seen plenty of pictures taken with the 35, 50 and 75mm lenses. Godfrey – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I don’t know about the rest of the world but $630. for a camera seems like a lot.  If it were $200. to $250. I would be interested.  Considering the huge over priced pile of old lenses that have been sitting in people’s closets collecting fungus for the past 50 years I would say the only alternative are the new Voigtlander lenses.  It’s nice to see a return of the old time camera styles for nostalgia’s sake but really.  A better deal would be the Olympus OM2000, actually the same cameras as the Bessa-R but in SLR style, made by the same company and a ton of great OM lenses out there (every one based on a Leica design anyway). AF.

Response:

Question:

Good condition.  Preferably with all caps and case

Response:

Good condition.  Preferably with all caps and case

Canon gets the tubes from Kenko, so you can widen your search. — 35mm film scanning, digital retouch, and restoration. in Chapel Hill, N.C. USA. All work Strictly Confidential http://dark_alley_photography.homestead.com/darkalleyretouch.html Before you buy.

Response:

Question:

Hi I want to buy a 35mm SLR, but need some advice. As I had an Nikon before someone stole it, I am considering another Nikon, maybe the F70 or the F60. I know that the F70 has one or two features better than the F60 – spot metering and 1/4000 s velocity, but also dislike his "control-panel"… you know, and read in this newsgroup that Nikon, maybe discontinue this model …Is it right ? In other way, I can look into the Canon EOS 50E, that has a great focusing system with eye-control and also has ultra-sonic lenses that focus better than the Nikon ones; am I right ? Now, as they cost almost the same, here in Portugal, what would be my best option ? Thanks in advance            Miguel Cunha            ( in Portugal )

Response:

What (expensive) Nikon lenses have you left and is there anything that you want to do (now or later) that you only can do with anything Nikon (or Canon) can deliver ? The F60 (this is the camera I have, along with a old Nikkormat) is very easy to use and that is important. Any camera with a high "handling treshold" will be probably used less than the "inviting", easy to use camera. The F70 has many more features, and not only the ones you mentioned. You will also get remote shutter release, capacity to use old, MF lenses and some other features that may be important. So choosing between these cameras isn’t easy. Really, the Canon might be your best choice, if you don’t (like I do) feel that Nikon is offering quality over features. Some people say I am wrong about this, but I don’t think so. It is probably a fact, nevertheless, that Canon is offering the newest technology (FWIW) and that if you fancy nice technology, Canon will give you that in large amounts :-) Canon will lock you into EOS lenses exclusively, tho’ and there will be no way to use older MF lenses with that camera. Why not takle a look at Pentax (same advantages as Nikon, old and new lenses can be intermixed) and Minolta (who rivals Canon with "bang-for-the-buck) before you make up your mind? The period when one chooses camera is fun, don’t let go of this good opportunity… ;-) Anders Miguel Cunha skrev: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi I want to buy a 35mm SLR, but need some advice. As I had an Nikon before someone stole it, I am considering another Nikon, maybe the F70 or the F60. I know that the F70 has one or two features better than the F60 – spot metering and 1/4000 s velocity, but also dislike his "control-panel"… you know, and read in this newsgroup that Nikon, maybe discontinue this model …Is it right ? In other way, I can look into the Canon EOS 50E, that has a great focusing system with eye-control and also has ultra-sonic lenses that focus better than the Nikon ones; am I right ? Now, as they cost almost the same, here in Portugal, what would be my best option ? Thanks in advance            Miguel Cunha            ( in Portugal )

– Anders Svensson

Response:

Question:

Hello everyone, A vague question, I know, but I’m wondering what kind of sharpness I should expect from an 8×12 enlargement of a 35mm slide. Here’s the situation: I recently had 8×12 prints made from two of my favorite slides. This is the first time I’ve had enlargements made, so I don’t know what to expect. The slides look beautiful on the light table with a 7x loupe. However, I am disappointed with the quality of the 8×12’s. They look ok from a distance, but up close (with naked eye, not a loupe) they just don’t seem very sharp- edges are dull, not crisp. I used Kodak Elite Chrome 200 in my Pentax body with a 35-80 zoom lens. I did use a tripod. What kind of quality should I expect ? The prints were made at a Kodak Qualex lab. I’m wondering if I would get better results at a pro lab. Thanks,       – Robert (Scans of the images- not that they’ll reveal much about the sharpness of the slides-  are at:    http://www.stanford.edu/~rjh/StanfHills/tree1.JPG   &    http://www.stanford.edu/~rjh/StanfHills/tree2.JPG      )

Response:

|How were the prints made?  Internegative or directly with |cibachrome/ilfochrome?  I’ve stopped making Internegative prints as the |quality just sucks, both sharpness and color.  My direct prints turn out |great.  I always use E200 and am very happy with the sharpness and |colour of my work, both on a light table with an 8x loop, projected and |blown up to 8×12". Hmmm… I know they weren’t internegative, because that’s what my local lab had in house, and they said quality would be better if they were sent out to the Kodak lab. But I don’t know any specifics of the process used.       – Robert |

| | Hello everyone, | | A vague question, I know, but I’m wondering what kind of sharpness I should | expect from an 8×12 enlargement of a 35mm slide. | | Here’s the situation: I recently had 8×12 prints made from two of my | favorite slides. This is the first time I’ve had enlargements made, so I | don’t know what to expect. | | The slides look beautiful on the light table with a 7x loupe. However, I am | disappointed with the quality of the 8×12’s. They look ok from a distance, | but up close (with naked eye, not a loupe) they just don’t seem very sharp- | edges are dull, not crisp. | | I used Kodak Elite Chrome 200 in my Pentax body with a 35-80 zoom lens. I | did use a tripod. | | What kind of quality should I expect ? The prints were made at a Kodak | Qualex lab. I’m wondering if I would get better results at a pro lab. | | Thanks, | |       – Robert | | (Scans of the images- not that they’ll reveal much about the sharpness of | the slides-  are at: |    http://www.stanford.edu/~rjh/StanfHills/tree1.JPG   & |    http://www.stanford.edu/~rjh/StanfHills/tree2.JPG      ) | |– |<:-{} Harry C. Pulley, IV |    member RASC Hamilton/KW centres, ALPO, IOTA, TPS |      Guelph, Ontario, Canada, 43.51N, 80.28W

Response:

| |Here’s the situation: I recently had 8×12 prints made from two of my |favorite slides. This is the first time I’ve had enlargements made, so I |don’t know what to expect. | |The slides look beautiful on the light table with a 7x loupe. However, I am |disappointed with the quality of the 8×12’s. They look ok from a distance, |but up close (with naked eye, not a loupe) they just don’t seem very sharp- |edges are dull, not crisp. | |First of all, are you sure the slides are sharp?  I mean, you said |this was your first time.  How do you know it’s really sharp?  Did you |ask somebody experienced to look at them? | |Marcio |– Hi, That’s a good point. They look sharp to me, but I don’t necessarily know what to look for. I will find someone to take a look. A feature I’m using as a reference is that one of my slides shows some tall grass silhouetted against some clouds. In the slide, the contrast between the grass and the clouds is very clear, and it is easy to distinguish individual blades. On the print, it’s not as easy to see the individual blades.       – Robert

Response:

Find someone to do an Ilfochrome for you, direct slide to print with no interneg. Also, if they do use interneg, get 2 1/4" interneg taken for larger prints.  35mm internegs are overkill when going large. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – | |Here’s the situation: I recently had 8×12 prints made from two of my |favorite slides. This is the first time I’ve had enlargements made, so I |don’t know what to expect. | |The slides look beautiful on the light table with a 7x loupe. However, I am |disappointed with the quality of the 8×12’s. They look ok from a distance, |but up close (with naked eye, not a loupe) they just don’t seem very sharp- |edges are dull, not crisp. | |First of all, are you sure the slides are sharp?  I mean, you said |this was your first time.  How do you know it’s really sharp?  Did you |ask somebody experienced to look at them? | |Marcio |– Hi, That’s a good point. They look sharp to me, but I don’t necessarily know what to look for. I will find someone to take a look. A feature I’m using as a reference is that one of my slides shows some tall grass silhouetted against some clouds. In the slide, the contrast between the grass and the clouds is very clear, and it is easy to distinguish individual blades. On the print, it’s not as easy to see the individual blades.      - Robert

Response:

Actually, you are getting some good advice from all the responders.  My experience with getting prints from slides is that your final quality is VERY dependent on the lab that you use.  Internegative prints can be of high quality, if the lab is very good at doing that. Essentially, what I, and the other responders are saying, is that getting a very high quality print from a negative will cost money. There are various ways of getting that print, but it really depends on how good a job the lab does. All this is assuming, of course, that your original is indeed as sharp as you think it is. By the way, I have tried a few rolls of Elite Chrome 200, and I have been very pleased with the images.  I don’t think that it is as fine a grain as Velvia, but you should be able to get a quality 8X12 from it. Good luck. John Koch – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello everyone, A vague question, I know, but I’m wondering what kind of sharpness I should expect from an 8×12 enlargement of a 35mm slide. Here’s the situation: I recently had 8×12 prints made from two of my favorite slides. This is the first time I’ve had enlargements made, so I don’t know what to expect. The slides look beautiful on the light table with a 7x loupe. However, I am disappointed with the quality of the 8×12’s. They look ok from a distance, but up close (with naked eye, not a loupe) they just don’t seem very sharp- edges are dull, not crisp. I used Kodak Elite Chrome 200 in my Pentax body with a 35-80 zoom lens. I did use a tripod. What kind of quality should I expect ? The prints were made at a Kodak Qualex lab. I’m wondering if I would get better results at a pro lab. Thanks,       – Robert (Scans of the images- not that they’ll reveal much about the sharpness of the slides-  are at:    http://www.stanford.edu/~rjh/StanfHills/tree1.JPG   &    http://www.stanford.edu/~rjh/StanfHills/tree2.JPG      )

Response:

<snip Essentially, what I, and the other responders are saying, is that getting a very high quality print from a negative will cost money.<snip

Ooops.  What I meant to say in the above sentence was that getting a very high quality print from a SLIDE will cost money. Sorry about that. John Koch

Response:

A vague question, I know, but I’m wondering what kind of sharpness I should expect from an 8×12 enlargement of a 35mm slide.

It’s sounds like you had an internegative print made.  These basically are lousy quality.  Ilfochrome is best, but I’ve had good luck with digital prints of slides (2400dpi scan). Joel

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How were the prints made?  Internegative or directly with cibachrome/ilfochrome?  I’ve stopped making Internegative prints as the quality just sucks, both sharpness and color.  My direct prints turn out great.  I always use E200 and am very happy with the sharpness and colour of my work, both on a light table with an 8x loop, projected and blown up to 8×12". – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello everyone, A vague question, I know, but I’m wondering what kind of sharpness I should expect from an 8×12 enlargement of a 35mm slide. Here’s the situation: I recently had 8×12 prints made from two of my favorite slides. This is the first time I’ve had enlargements made, so I don’t know what to expect. The slides look beautiful on the light table with a 7x loupe. However, I am disappointed with the quality of the 8×12’s. They look ok from a distance, but up close (with naked eye, not a loupe) they just don’t seem very sharp- edges are dull, not crisp. I used Kodak Elite Chrome 200 in my Pentax body with a 35-80 zoom lens. I did use a tripod. What kind of quality should I expect ? The prints were made at a Kodak Qualex lab. I’m wondering if I would get better results at a pro lab. Thanks,       – Robert (Scans of the images- not that they’ll reveal much about the sharpness of the slides-  are at:    http://www.stanford.edu/~rjh/StanfHills/tree1.JPG   &    http://www.stanford.edu/~rjh/StanfHills/tree2.JPG      )

– <:-{} Harry C. Pulley, IV      member RASC Hamilton/KW centres, ALPO, IOTA, TPS       Guelph, Ontario, Canada, 43.51N, 80.28W

Response:

|How were the prints made?  Internegative or directly with |cibachrome/ilfochrome?  I’ve stopped making Internegative prints as the |quality just sucks, both sharpness and color.  My direct prints turn out |great.  I always use E200 and am very happy with the sharpness and |colour of my work, both on a light table with an 8x loop, projected and |blown up to 8×12". Hmmm… I know they weren’t internegative, because that’s what my local lab had in house, and they said quality would be better if they were sent out to the Kodak lab. But I don’t know any specifics of the process used.

Have you ever projected them?  Manual focus or auto? — <:-{} Harry C. Pulley, IV      member RASC Hamilton/KW centres, ALPO, IOTA, TPS       Guelph, Ontario, Canada, 43.51N, 80.28W

Response:

Chances are the lab you mentioned used an interneg, which means they shot your slide on neg film and printed from that. Loss here is a pickup in contrast, and slight loss in sharpness. Depending on your film, 8×12 should be easily attainable. Velvia and any ISO 100 slide film I can think of is fine. I have not shot with Elite Chrome 200, but I hated it’s predecessor Elite II 200’s grain, though I have one 8×10 enlargment from that film (same magnification), and it’s fine. I think camera shake when you took the shot might have been the problem… not always visible under the loupe. You have to be VERY critical with a loupe, because minor sharpness problems get enlarged and become far more apparent. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello everyone, A vague question, I know, but I’m wondering what kind of sharpness I should expect from an 8×12 enlargement of a 35mm slide. Here’s the situation: I recently had 8×12 prints made from two of my favorite slides. This is the first time I’ve had enlargements made, so I don’t know what to expect. The slides look beautiful on the light table with a 7x loupe. However, I am disappointed with the quality of the 8×12’s. They look ok from a distance, but up close (with naked eye, not a loupe) they just don’t seem very sharp- edges are dull, not crisp. I used Kodak Elite Chrome 200 in my Pentax body with a 35-80 zoom lens. I did use a tripod. What kind of quality should I expect ? The prints were made at a Kodak Qualex lab. I’m wondering if I would get better results at a pro lab. Thanks,       – Robert (Scans of the images- not that they’ll reveal much about the sharpness of the slides-  are at:    http://www.stanford.edu/~rjh/StanfHills/tree1.JPG   &    http://www.stanford.edu/~rjh/StanfHills/tree2.JPG      )

Response:

If you’re not happy with the print, take it back and have the lab try again. Chuck Wahlstrom

Response:

I used Kodak Elite Chrome 200 in my Pentax body with a 35-80 zoom lens. I did use a tripod.

This sounds similar to the problem I had years ago.  What I finally decided was that I was using a consumer grade lens, but expected the quality you get from a really good lens.  Once I started investing in really good lenses, most of my lack of sharpness went away. All it took was lots of money ;} This may not be the case for you, especially as your slides look sharp to you, but it is worth looking into.

Response:

I used Kodak Elite Chrome 200 in my Pentax body with a 35-80 zoom lens. I did use a tripod. This sounds similar to the problem I had years ago.  What I finally decided was that I was using a consumer grade lens, but expected the quality you get from a really good lens.  Once I started investing in really good lenses, most of my lack of sharpness went away. All it took was lots of money ;}

Please cite examples of "consumer grade lenses", and "really good lenses". My Nikon catalog doesn’t sort lenses to that degree. Thanks

Response:

… This sounds similar to the problem I had years ago.  What I finally decided was that I was using a consumer grade lens, but expected the quality you get from a really good lens.  Once I started investing in really good lenses, most of my lack of sharpness went away. All it took was lots of money ;}

… I’ve only found two lenses in modern times that were noticeably bad. One was the Tamron 28-200 f/3.8-5.6, and it was very good up to about 105. After that it gets worse so that by 200mm it would have much the same condition you describe. Looks ok with a weak loupe, but upon closer examination it was soft. The second was the Minolta Weathermatic 35 Dual fixed lens. Not very sharp, but maybe it was just mine. I still use the Tamron. It’s a great lens to carry all by itself, just don’t trust it at full extension. In general though, it’s hard to find a noticeably bad lens these days.

Response:

Scott Hardy wrote <Once I started investing in really good lenses most of my sharpness problems went away. Agreed, in general, but not in every case. I have a Pentax 35-80; I agree that it is not a great lens, but I have evidence to prove that it can make sharp 8×12’s. Occasionally, I have printed a slide from this lens to 11×14 (Ilfochrome) with adequate sharpness. That said, I will admit that it is NOT a top choice among my lenses. A suggestion – look at the slide projected or under a good-quality high magnification loupe. The problem may be with the slide. Regards, Ed

Response:

Take the slides and the prints to a pro lab and get their opinion. Look on the back of the print: is the paper type identified? (so you can tell if it’s from an interneg) 8X12 from a 35mm is an 8x enlargement and great care must be taken to get sharp results on the print in the darkroom. If using an interneg, you must use a larger format for the interneg. I would also recommend you try ciba/Ilfochrome print. Most likely a quality pro lab that does Ciba  will give you better results. They will be able to look at the slide and prints and tell you. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello everyone, A vague question, I know, but I’m wondering what kind of sharpness I should expect from an 8×12 enlargement of a 35mm slide. Here’s the situation: I recently had 8×12 prints made from two of my favorite slides. This is the first time I’ve had enlargements made, so I don’t know what to expect. The slides look beautiful on the light table with a 7x loupe. However, I am disappointed with the quality of the 8×12’s. They look ok from a distance, but up close (with naked eye, not a loupe) they just don’t seem very sharp- edges are dull, not crisp. I used Kodak Elite Chrome 200 in my Pentax body with a 35-80 zoom lens. I did use a tripod. What kind of quality should I expect ? The prints were made at a Kodak Qualex lab. I’m wondering if I would get better results at a pro lab. Thanks,       – Robert (Scans of the images- not that they’ll reveal much about the sharpness of the slides-  are at:    http://www.stanford.edu/~rjh/StanfHills/tree1.JPG   &    http://www.stanford.edu/~rjh/StanfHills/tree2.JPG      )

Response:

Check out the lens tests at www.photodo.com. Lenses that receive a rating of less than about 3.0 (on a scale of 0 to 5, with 5 being perfect) would probably be considered ‘consumer grade’. In addition, the low speed (and low cost) of these lenses would be a tip off, not to mention the plastic lens mounts on some of the lenses. In the Nikon line, ‘consumer grade’ lenses would be the 35-80mm f/4-5.6D AF Zoom-Nikkor and the 28-80mm f/3.5-5.6D AF Zoom-Nikkor, as well as the 70-210mm f/4-5.6D AF Zoom-Nikkor . Colin – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I used Kodak Elite Chrome 200 in my Pentax body with a 35-80 zoom lens. I did use a tripod. This sounds similar to the problem I had years ago.  What I finally decided was that I was using a consumer grade lens, but expected the quality you get from a really good lens.  Once I started investing in really good lenses, most of my lack of sharpness went away. All it took was lots of money ;} Please cite examples of "consumer grade lenses", and "really good lenses". My Nikon catalog doesn’t sort lenses to that degree. Thanks

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I used Kodak Elite Chrome 200 in my Pentax body with a 35-80 zoom lens. I did use a tripod. This sounds similar to the problem I had years ago.  What I finally decided was that I was using a consumer grade lens, but expected the quality you get from a really good lens.  Once I started investing in really good lenses, most of my lack of sharpness went away. All it took was lots of money ;} This may not be the case for you, especially as your slides look sharp to you, but it is worth looking into.

If the slides look sharp it could be the problem is with wherever you got the print made.

Response:

Take the slides and the prints to a pro lab and get their opinion. Look on the back of the print: is the paper type identified? (so you can tell if it’s from an interneg) 8X12 from a 35mm is an 8x enlargement and great care must be taken to get sharp results on the print in the darkroom. If using an interneg, you must use a larger format for the interneg. I would also recommend you try ciba/Ilfochrome print. Most likely a quality pro lab that does Ciba  will give you better results. They will be able to look at the slide and prints and tell you.

The sign of a good lab is one that recommends you don’t enlarge a particular slide as it won’t come out well.  Telling you not to shell out for an 8×12" print because you won’t be satisfied with it is saying something about how they do business.  I’m glad to have found such a lab locally. — <:-{} Harry C. Pulley, IV      member RASC Hamilton/KW centres, ALPO, IOTA, TPS       Guelph, Ontario, Canada, 43.51N, 80.28W

Response:

|Take the slides and the prints to a pro lab and get their opinion. |Look on the back of the print: is the paper type identified? |(so you can tell if it’s from an interneg) |8X12 from a 35mm is an 8x enlargement and great care must be taken to |get sharp results on the print in the darkroom. If using an interneg, |you must use a larger format for the interneg. |I would also recommend you try ciba/Ilfochrome print. |Most likely a quality pro lab that does Ciba  will give you better |results. They will be able to look at the slide and prints and tell you. | | Hi, First, I’d like to thank all the people who’ve taken the time to respond to my original post. I’m learning some things. – The back of the enlargements say "Kodak Professional Paper"… does this indicate that an internegative was used? Based on what I’ve been hearing from people, I’m going to do two things: – Take the slide and enlargement to a good lab to see if they think they can do better. – Shoot a roll of Velvia using my best prime lens and a tripod to see what a really sharp slide looks like- that’d provide a nice reference point.       – Robert

Response:

| |I used Kodak Elite Chrome 200 in my Pentax body with a 35-80 zoom lens. I |did use a tripod. | |This sounds similar to the problem I had years ago.  What I finally |decided was that I was using a consumer grade lens, but expected |the quality you get from a really good lens.  Once I started investing |in really good lenses, most of my lack of sharpness went away. |All it took was lots of money ;} | |This may not be the case for you, especially as your slides look sharp |to you, but it is worth looking into. Hi, First, I’d like to thank all the people who’ve taken the time to respond to my original post. I’m learning some things. Based on what I’ve been hearing from people, I’m going to do two things: – Take the slide and enlargement to a good lab to see if they think they can do better. – Shoot a roll of Velvia using my best prime lens and a tripod to see what a really sharp slide looks like- that’d provide a nice reference point.       – Robert

Response:

| The slides look beautiful on the light table with a 7x loupe. However, I am | disappointed with the quality of the 8×12’s. They look ok from a distance, | but up close (with naked eye, not a loupe) they just don’t seem very sharp- | edges are dull, not crisp.

This is probably the most commonly asked question when it comes to viewing the results of prints from slides (no matter what the size) The problem is that we usually view a transparency with projected light, and view prints with reflected light. It’s like looking at a stained glass window in the day with sun comming through as apposed to viewing it at night with interior lighting. It just doesn’t compare. If you want outstanding results and are willing to spend a little extra, then get cibachrome prints. Paul Eby http://okphoto.webjump.com

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| The slides look beautiful on the light table with a 7x loupe. However, I am | disappointed with the quality of the 8×12’s. They look ok from a distance, | but up close (with naked eye, not a loupe) they just don’t seem very sharp- | edges are dull, not crisp

    I’m holding a black and white 91/2 x 12  print I made a few days ago.  It’s on Ilford Gallerie paper, and it’s very sharp indeed.  It’s shot on Delta 100 processed in Aculux2, and the grain is only just visible if you look really hard, and the sharpness is good; only if you get to the limit of close focus for your eye can you start to see any softness around low contrast edges.     Having said that, I consider this the max limit for 35mm enlargement.  It can be made bigger of course, but I prefer to use medium format for anything bigger than 12 inch. David.

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Question:

    I’ve been away from photography for a few years, and I’m now thinking of taking it up again.     My old camera (Pentax K1000) always yielded a disappointing lack of sharpness no matter what film or lab I used. This is something I want to avoid this time around. My thoughts are leaning towards buying top quality lenses, but a body that might not have all the latest bells and whistles. Any suggestions? Are the pro quality lenses really that much better than the so called consumer grades? I don’t mind saving up my magic beans and going for the good lenses, but not if I’m not going to see a difference in an 8 x 10 or 11 x 14. Can anyone recommend a site that shows good comparisons of lenses? Thanks, Scotty Moore

Response:

http://i31www.ira.uka.de/~klaus_s/lenssurvey.htm

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –    I’ve been away from photography for a few years, and I’m now thinking of taking it up again.    My old camera (Pentax K1000) always yielded a disappointing lack of sharpness no matter what film or lab I used. This is something I want to avoid this time around. My thoughts are leaning towards buying top quality lenses, but a body that might not have all the latest bells and whistles. Any suggestions? Are the pro quality lenses really that much better than the so called consumer grades? I don’t mind saving up my magic beans and going for the good lenses, but not if I’m not going to see a difference in an 8 x 10 or 11 x 14. Can anyone recommend a site that shows good comparisons of lenses? Thanks, Scotty Moore

Response:

First, make sure it really is your lenses and not your camera focusing system being mis-aligned or eyesight problems. For tips on testing lenses and cameras, see my camera and lens testing pages at http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/broncameratest.html check the film – not a print – many photofinishers deliberately defocus and reduce sharpness of image to mask poor process control, scratches on film and other defects – you may have to shop around to find a mini-lab that doesn’t do this – or use a pro lab or mail order processor as I do ;-) That’s one reason I still prefer to shoot mostly slide film (lower $$ too ;-) I have both pentax K series system (with mix of pentax and third party lenses) and nikon F/F2/FE.. and nikkor and third party lenses. I can’t tell the pentax prime from the nikkor prime shots, frankly, on my slides. Even worse, I doubt I could reliably tell the third party lens shots from the nikkor shots, unless I am enlarging beyond 8×10, and often not then! ;-) While OEM prime lenses (nikkors, pentax) are often generally held to be sharper than third party lenses, the differences are often not dramatic, and many third party lenses are as sharp or sharper than some OEM primes. If you aren’t doing a lot of enlargements beyond 8×10, you may find many third party or consumer lenses to be quite acceptable. For examples, see http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/third/quality.html – How much quality do you need pages my general experience has been – that absent a defective or abused lens – the quality of most modern 35mm prime lenses is very good, and recent zoom lenses can also be surprisingly good optically – even for the moderate cost consumer grade lenses. You pay a whole lot more oftentimes for a modest improvement in sharpness (lpmm) or contrast, often only seen in the corners of a wide open lens, relative to a much lower cost third party lens or pro model. If you really want to have fun, shoot two identical focal length lenses – one a prime OEM (nikkor) and the other a third party (e.g., osawa) – on the same slide film, on the same camera/tripod/light/scene – just switch the lenses and take a shot on each, for various subjects/distances/settings. relabel the slides with random numbers, taking notes so you know which slide was made by which lens (white-out any imprinted numbers). Now try to sort out slides into two piles – prime OEM and prime third party lens shots – using a loupe. Compare the numbers on your slide piles to your list of random numbers and actual lens values. In such a blind test, you may be surprised to find how many third party lens shots ended up in your OEM pile, and vice versa. Now if you really want to have fun, have some of your amateur photographer friends try this blind sorting test. It is truly amazing how many of the folks who say all third party lenses are junk can’t tell them apart from the "real thing" ;-) Even worse, let them try again – best 2 out of 3 – gets even funnier. in short, don’t expect huge and obvious mega-improvements from higher priced lenses – a 15% improvement for a 60% increase in price is typical (on lpmm) – and most of us don’t notice that small an improvement except in our wallets… if you are going to be doing a lot of 11×14 and above, consider medium format see my medium format on a budget pages at: http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/mf/budget.html regards bobm — * Bronica 6×6 medium format: http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronica.html site * * Medium Format Cameras: http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/mf/index.html megasite*

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: I’m pro-lenses. : -Q

Question:

I agree re the Walmart instore 1 hr lab.  However, I have gotten good results from their overnite service which gets shipped out someplace.

Response:

I’ve seen quite a few questions in this NG regarding film developing. I would like to share a few suggestions regarding the subject and how it applies to the 35mm format.  I am only providing information on what works for me and I invite others to offer their suggestions on the subject.  Most or all of this advice applies to both consumer and professional grades of film, color or B&W.  My primary goals are to get the best developing I can for the lowest price.   Slide film. I predominately use processing mailers to develop slide film.  I have found the quality to be very high with the Fuji and Kodak mailers.  The main complaint I have with them is their use of cheap paper slide mounts which provide me with an endless supply of paper dust on my slides.  Plastic mounts are much better and that’s what most of your better custom labs use. Plastic mounts also do not tend to warp as paper ones do. Custom labs, however, in my area charge me two to three times what Fuji does so I go with Fuji and curse the paper dust.  Fuji is my first choice here because their mailers are $1 cheaper than Kodak’s.  If you use Kodachrome you will be forced to use the Kodak mailers because Fuji develops E-6 process only.  As long as the film is E-6 Fuji will develop it even if it’s manufactured by someone other than Fuji.  The same goes for the Kodak mailers.   Turn around time for slide mailers is 2-3 weeks so be prepared. Print film. You should understand first that I don’t shoot much print film. When I do, it’s usually portraits or B&Ws that I intend to hang on my wall at home or at work.  I do NOT use mailers for print film.  The reason is I want a proof of my image before I go with the final enlargement.  When you get a set of prints they usually have color and/or exposure corrections applied to them. When you look at a negative it is very difficult to tell anything about exposure and virtually impossible to tell anything about color.  What I do is go to a custom lab and specify either a contact sheet or a set of proofs.  This gives me a set of images from my original negatives that have no color or exposure correction applied to them.  From there I can specify exactly what correction I want and how much.  Regardless of how good the guy running the machine at the lab is, he can’t read my mind and tell what I was trying to express with my exposure.  This method is more expensive.  My lab charges me $8 for developing and a contact sheet which is probably twice what you’ll pay at Wal-mart for a full set of prints.  However, the next time you go to Wal-mart, look at the negatives they have hanging up next to the machine.  At every Wal-mart I’ve ever been to they have negatives hanging down dragging on the floor.  Needless to say, I don’t go to Wal-mart and have anything developed I really care about.

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