Question:

Hi All. I’m thinking about doing some engine upgrades to my ‘96 328is and am concerned about the weak link. As far as I know, the engine, transmission (five speed) and diff are completely stock. 50 additional HP is my goal. Is there anything I should be concerned about? TIA

Response:

Hi All. I’m thinking about doing some engine upgrades to my ‘96 328is and am concerned about the weak link. As far as I know, the engine, transmission (five speed) and diff are completely stock. 50 additional HP is my goal. Is there anything I should be concerned about? TIA

Cooling system reliability is the only weak link.  The drivetrain will easily accomodate another 50HP. -Fred W

Response:

Thanks Fred. What cooling system mods would you suggest? Chris – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi All. I’m thinking about doing some engine upgrades to my ‘96 328is and am concerned about the weak link. As far as I know, the engine, transmission (five speed) and diff are completely stock. 50 additional HP is my goal. Is there anything I should be concerned about? TIA Cooling system reliability is the only weak link.  The drivetrain will easily accomodate another 50HP. -Fred W

Response:

The weaknesses are the plastic tanks and plastic impeller on the water pump. It turns out that the hot coolant eats away at the plastic parts (while working to preserve the aluminum parts). The impeller blades get smoothed off, causing the pump to fail. The tanks on the radiator will eventually rot away, and the common failure is that the inlet hose breaks off. Replacing the water pump with one that has a metal impeller will fix one problem, and getting a radiator with metal tanks will fix the other. You should also take a close look at the fan clutch. If this part is weak, the fan will not spin properly at low speeds, and the motor will overheat.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Thanks Fred. What cooling system mods would you suggest? Chris Hi All. I’m thinking about doing some engine upgrades to my ‘96 328is and am concerned about the weak link. As far as I know, the engine, transmission (five speed) and diff are completely stock. 50 additional HP is my goal. Is there anything I should be concerned about? TIA Cooling system reliability is the only weak link.  The drivetrain will easily accomodate another 50HP. -Fred W

Response:

The weaknesses are the plastic tanks and plastic impeller on the water pump. It turns out that the hot coolant eats away at the plastic parts (while working to preserve the aluminum parts). The impeller blades get smoothed off, causing the pump to fail. The tanks on the radiator will eventually rot away, and the common failure is that the inlet hose breaks off. Replacing the water pump with one that has a metal impeller will fix one problem, and getting a radiator with metal tanks will fix the other. You should also take a close look at the fan clutch. If this part is weak, the fan will not spin properly at low speeds, and the motor will overheat.

Good stuff Jeff, The only additional caveat I would add is that the thermostat housing is also plastic which degrades with the same heat / cooling cycles, but can inexpensively be replaced with an aluminum after-market one. -Fred

Response:

Thanks for all the great advice. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The weaknesses are the plastic tanks and plastic impeller on the water pump. It turns out that the hot coolant eats away at the plastic parts (while working to preserve the aluminum parts). The impeller blades get smoothed off, causing the pump to fail. The tanks on the radiator will eventually rot away, and the common failure is that the inlet hose breaks off. Replacing the water pump with one that has a metal impeller will fix one problem, and getting a radiator with metal tanks will fix the other. You should also take a close look at the fan clutch. If this part is weak, the fan will not spin properly at low speeds, and the motor will overheat. Good stuff Jeff, The only additional caveat I would add is that the thermostat housing is also plastic which degrades with the same heat / cooling cycles, but can inexpensively be replaced with an aluminum after-market one. -Fred

Response:

Hi All. I’m thinking about doing some engine upgrades to my ‘96 328is and am concerned about the weak link. As far as I know, the engine, transmission (five speed) and diff are completely stock. 50 additional HP is my goal. Is there anything I should be concerned about? TIA

How are you goign to get the extra 50?

Response:

Haven’t given it that much thought yet. I don’t want to go into the engine too deep but I’m mechanically inclined and am not afraid to try stuff. Any suggestions?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi All. I’m thinking about doing some engine upgrades to my ‘96 328is and am concerned about the weak link. As far as I know, the engine, transmission (five speed) and diff are completely stock. 50 additional HP is my goal. Is there anything I should be concerned about? TIA How are you goign to get the extra 50?

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Haven’t given it that much thought yet. I don’t want to go into the engine too deep but I’m mechanically inclined and am not afraid to try stuff. Any suggestions? Hi All. I’m thinking about doing some engine upgrades to my ‘96 328is and am concerned about the weak link. As far as I know, the engine, transmission (five speed) and diff are completely stock. 50 additional HP is my goal. Is there anything I should be concerned about? TIA How are you goign to get the extra 50?

I don’t think 50HP will cause you any major issues.  Weak link would probably be your relationship with local law enforcement. Brakes are always a good upgrade when adding power. -Russ.

Response:

Haven’t given it that much thought yet. I don’t want to go into the engine too deep but I’m mechanically inclined and am not afraid to try stuff. Any suggestions?

It’s going to cost you $$$$ so you may as well go out and buy an M3.

Response:

Piece of cake….Euro N cams, plus 1 injectors, 35mm mass air, headers and chip tuning… 2.8 will then outrun a stock 3.2 240HP – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi All. I’m thinking about doing some engine upgrades to my ‘96 328is and  am concerned about the weak link. As far as I know, the engine, transmission (five speed) and diff are completely stock. 50 additional HP is my goal.  Is there anything I should be concerned about? TIA Cooling system reliability is the only weak link.  The drivetrain will easily accomodate another 50HP. -Fred W

Response:

Well, I figure it’s going to cost 10K to get an M3 after I sell my current ride. Too much for 50 HP. Can anyone direct me to a reputable dealer (online) for "hot-rod" parts for my 328is? Thanks for all of your advice.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Haven’t given it that much thought yet. I don’t want to go into the engine too deep but I’m mechanically inclined and am not afraid to try stuff. Any suggestions? It’s going to cost you $$$$ so you may as well go out and buy an M3.

Response:

Question:

My daughter is an artist (watercolor at present) and wants an airbrush and compressor for her birthday.  She wants to do watercolor airbrush on heavy paper with the airbrush.  What would you recommend for her?

try  http://tinyurl.com/34m3g

Response:

I’m guessing you are in the States… For the airbrush, I’d look for a gravity feed 0.3mm to 0.35mm. An Iwata HPC is a quality airbrush for the type of work your daughter is doing, also a Paasche VSR-90 is well priced for that work. For a compressor, I would look to get a Sparmax twin cylinder with an air tank..Here in Australia, we buy them direct as model AT-350-A. I have sold a fair amount of these to artist at Disney and Fox studios. I understand that Iwata sells them in the US under the name Iwata "sprint", really not sure. Check out iwata’s or bearair’s web site for a look see. The twin I’m talking about comes with a black cover and a 3 ltr air tank…also includes a regulator/moisture trap. Since we service them here, I have seen very few problems over the past three years and we average 4-6 compressors a week in sales. Hope that helps you… Ken – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My daughter is an artist (watercolor at present) and wants an airbrush and compressor for her birthday.  She wants to do watercolor airbrush on heavy paper with the airbrush.  What would you recommend for her? I am not shy about investing in quality equipment, but I am looking for the best bang for the buck, of course… She paints still life, portraits, seascapes and things of that nature, if that makes a difference. Thanks for your help, Chris ‘padishar creel’ Fanning PS  And please refer me to any websites that have the equipment for sale that you have had good experiences with… CF

Response:

you sell custom air hoses, the braided type in 30 ft or more lengths with couplings, the braided type are preferred, i use a 40 ft hose now, it is comprised of vacuum hose with screw down clamps it works well till i burn cigarette holes in the line or it gets overblown with varying air pressures. although cheap to replace at .39 cents a foot, i primarily use an iwata gravity feed with one shot enamel at varying pressures from 40 to 60 lbs.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What ever you do, don’t buy the D3000…it’s a re-branded Holding Compressor. Very cheaply made. No weld build ups for the fittings, just punched in and threaded…very loud…I doubt anyone would be happy with these units. By the way I sell Paasche products…but not that one…because I won’t sell what I wouldn’t consider using… Hey Cory, to my knowledge Paasche VSR 90’s only come with 2 different needle/tip assemblies (0.25mm and 0.4mm), not three…maybe it’s different in Canada. Also you can’t put 0.3mm (HPC) needle/tip assembly in a HPA or HPB, as the machining is too tight for the larger needle. I know Iwata does offer the option of the smaller 0.2mm assembly in a HPC as the packing washers are the same for both the 0.2mm and the 0.3mm assemblies. The hand made German EFBE airbrushes allow you to go from a 0.3mm all the way down to a 0.15mm in the same body…great value there. Just change the needle/tip assemblies and re-set the packing nut. Ken

Hello I think you would be very happy with the Iwata airbrushes but for a compressor you can look at paasche for a D3000,

http://www.paascheairbrush.com/cgi-bin/store/search.cgi?category=Comp… +%26+Regulators it is a very quiet unit that we have had very few problems with. Here is a quick break down of how the airbrush use for paasche goes

http://www.paascheairbrush.com/cgi-bin/store/search.cgi?category=Doub… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – on+Airbrushes VSR 90 #1 very fine work… hair like lines VSR 90 #2 A little larger but still quite fine VSR 90 #3 Can be used for small shading but would take you forever to do a background with this gun. Awata uses a similar method of catagorizing HP-A, HP-B, HP-C all can exchange thier tips and needles to accomodate different needs but this is tedious so most people just have more than one airbrush. you can find out more at http://www.medea-artool.com/iwata.htm Hope this was of some help Cheers — Cory Kaminsky Custom Culture Airbrush Ltd. 17319- 107 Ave Edmonton, Alberta T5S-1E5 www.customculture.ca My daughter is an artist (watercolor at present) and wants an airbrush and compressor for her birthday.  She wants to do watercolor airbrush on heavy paper with the airbrush.  What would you recommend for her? I am not shy about investing in quality equipment, but I am looking for the best bang for the buck, of course… She paints still life, portraits, seascapes and things of that nature, if that makes a difference. Thanks for your help, Chris ‘padishar creel’ Fanning PS  And please refer me to any websites that have the equipment for sale that you have had good experiences with… CF

Response:

My daughter is an artist (watercolor at present) and wants an airbrush and compressor for her birthday.  She wants to do watercolor airbrush on heavy paper with the airbrush.  What would you recommend for her? I am not shy about investing in quality equipment, but I am looking for the best bang for the buck, of course… She paints still life, portraits, seascapes and things of that nature, if that makes a difference. Thanks for your help, Chris ‘padishar creel’ Fanning PS  And please refer me to any websites that have the equipment for sale that you have had good experiences with… CF

Response:

Hello I think you would be very happy with the Iwata airbrushes but for a compressor you can look at paasche for a D3000, http://www.paascheairbrush.com/cgi-bin/store/search.cgi?category=Comp… +%26+Regulators it is a very quiet unit that we have had very few problems with. Here is a quick break down of how the airbrush use for paasche goes http://www.paascheairbrush.com/cgi-bin/store/search.cgi?category=Doub… on+Airbrushes VSR 90 #1 very fine work… hair like lines VSR 90 #2 A little larger but still quite fine VSR 90 #3 Can be used for small shading but would take you forever to do a background with this gun. Awata uses a similar method of catagorizing HP-A, HP-B, HP-C all can exchange thier tips and needles to accomodate different needs but this is tedious so most people just have more than one airbrush. you can find out more at http://www.medea-artool.com/iwata.htm Hope this was of some help Cheers — Cory Kaminsky Custom Culture Airbrush Ltd. 17319- 107 Ave Edmonton, Alberta T5S-1E5 www.customculture.ca

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My daughter is an artist (watercolor at present) and wants an airbrush and compressor for her birthday.  She wants to do watercolor airbrush on heavy paper with the airbrush.  What would you recommend for her? I am not shy about investing in quality equipment, but I am looking for the best bang for the buck, of course… She paints still life, portraits, seascapes and things of that nature, if that makes a difference. Thanks for your help, Chris ‘padishar creel’ Fanning PS  And please refer me to any websites that have the equipment for sale that you have had good experiences with… CF

Response:

Try http://www.bearair.com Paul. — http://www.littlemisspinup.com http://www.paulcorfield.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My daughter is an artist (watercolor at present) and wants an airbrush and compressor for her birthday.  She wants to do watercolor airbrush on heavy paper with the airbrush.  What would you recommend for her? I am not shy about investing in quality equipment, but I am looking for the best bang for the buck, of course… She paints still life, portraits, seascapes and things of that nature, if that makes a difference. Thanks for your help, Chris ‘padishar creel’ Fanning PS  And please refer me to any websites that have the equipment for sale that you have had good experiences with… CF

Response:

What ever you do, don’t buy the D3000…it’s a re-branded Holding Compressor. Very cheaply made. No weld build ups for the fittings, just punched in and threaded…very loud…I doubt anyone would be happy with these units. By the way I sell Paasche products…but not that one…because I won’t sell what I wouldn’t consider using… Hey Cory, to my knowledge Paasche VSR 90’s only come with 2 different needle/tip assemblies (0.25mm and 0.4mm), not three…maybe it’s different in Canada. Also you can’t put 0.3mm (HPC) needle/tip assembly in a HPA or HPB, as the machining is too tight for the larger needle. I know Iwata does offer the option of the smaller 0.2mm assembly in a HPC as the packing washers are the same for both the 0.2mm and the 0.3mm assemblies. The hand made German EFBE airbrushes allow you to go from a 0.3mm all the way down to a 0.15mm in the same body…great value there. Just change the needle/tip assemblies and re-set the packing nut. Ken – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello I think you would be very happy with the Iwata airbrushes but for a compressor you can look at paasche for a D3000, http://www.paascheairbrush.com/cgi-bin/store/search.cgi?category=Comp… +%26+Regulators it is a very quiet unit that we have had very few problems with. Here is a quick break down of how the airbrush use for paasche goes http://www.paascheairbrush.com/cgi-bin/store/search.cgi?category=Doub… on+Airbrushes VSR 90 #1 very fine work… hair like lines VSR 90 #2 A little larger but still quite fine VSR 90 #3 Can be used for small shading but would take you forever to do a background with this gun. Awata uses a similar method of catagorizing HP-A, HP-B, HP-C all can exchange thier tips and needles to accomodate different needs but this is tedious so most people just have more than one airbrush. you can find out more at http://www.medea-artool.com/iwata.htm Hope this was of some help Cheers — Cory Kaminsky Custom Culture Airbrush Ltd. 17319- 107 Ave Edmonton, Alberta T5S-1E5 www.customculture.ca My daughter is an artist (watercolor at present) and wants an airbrush and compressor for her birthday.  She wants to do watercolor airbrush on heavy paper with the airbrush.  What would you recommend for her? I am not shy about investing in quality equipment, but I am looking for the best bang for the buck, of course… She paints still life, portraits, seascapes and things of that nature, if that makes a difference. Thanks for your help, Chris ‘padishar creel’ Fanning PS  And please refer me to any websites that have the equipment for sale that you have had good experiences with… CF

Response:

Question:

I am working on a family member’s 97 neon SOHC. The timimg belt lost all of it’s teeth. The two cylinders on the passenger side have no compression. The two on the drivers side have great compression. Since this is an interferance type engine I am sure the valves on the bad cylinders are screwed. I have a spare DOHC head with valves. Are these valves the same size and interchangable? Thanks

Response:

I am working on a family member’s 97 neon SOHC. The timimg belt lost all of it’s teeth. The two cylinders on the passenger side have no compression. The two on the drivers side have great compression. Since this is an interferance type engine I am sure the valves on the bad cylinders are screwed. I have a spare DOHC head with valves. Are these valves the same size and interchangable?

Valve Sets DOHC Std Size Set; Includes Qty 8, 30.5mm Exhaust Valves and Qty 8, 35mm Intake Valves SOHC Std Set; Includes Qty 8, 28.65mm Exhaust Valves and Qty 8, 33.2mm Intake Valves <http://141.157.157.99/Neon/neonEngineTiming.htm

Response:

I am working on a family member’s 97 neon SOHC. The timimg belt lost all of it’s teeth. The two cylinders on the passenger side have no compression. The two on the drivers side have great compression. Since this is an interferance type engine I am sure the valves on the bad cylinders are screwed. I have a spare DOHC head with valves. Are these valves the same size and interchangable? Thanks

Response:

I am working on a family member’s 97 neon SOHC. The timimg belt lost all of it’s teeth. The two cylinders on the passenger side have no compression. The two on the drivers side have great compression. Since this is an interferance type engine I am sure the valves on the bad cylinders are screwed. I have a spare DOHC head with valves. Are these valves the same size and interchangable?

Valve Sets DOHC Std Size Set; Includes Qty 8, 30.5mm Exhaust Valves and Qty 8, 35mm Intake Valves SOHC Std Set; Includes Qty 8, 28.65mm Exhaust Valves and Qty 8, 33.2mm Intake Valves <http://141.157.157.99/Neon/neonEngineTiming.htm

Response:

Question:

Hi, After many years of lurking, my first posting. I have restored my 84 Prelude EX and now want to lower the suspension by aprox 35mm by having the springs reset.. What effect will this have on the castor and camber and can it be adjusted ? Could anyone direct me to a web site that deals with this or a FAQ. Thanks, Greg

Response:

Hi, After many years of lurking, my first posting.

You need to get an aftermarket spring kit with a rear camber adjuster kit.http://64.33.96.185/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=DBM&Cat egory_Code=HondaAccordSuspensionSprings or use search engine and type in diamond bar honda, click honda for parts.

Response:

Hi, Thanks for the response, your link refers to a Honda Accord, will this fit an 84 Prelude. Regards, Greg

Hi, After many years of lurking, my first posting. You need to get an aftermarket spring kit with a rear camber adjuster

kit.http://64.33.96.185/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=DBM&Cat – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – egory_Code=HondaAccordSuspensionSprings or use search engine and type in diamond bar honda, click honda for parts.

Response:

Question:

We made drawers for cabinets above fridge and used full extension bottom mounts drawer slides.  Very handy. Name works for E-mail

Response:

I was wondering how hard it would be to make basic European cupboards (out of white melamine sheeting) to match the other cupboards in our kitchen?   Cory

try here also: rec.woodworking — The Rogue Canceller – "My entire pathetic life consists of sitting at my computer, using pirated proxy servers, and cancelling arty’s posts in alt.home.repair.  I have not figured out yet that I’m the only one not seeing the ‘cancelled’ posts. I am a true lamer and I will also cancel this one." Path: newsengine.sol.net!news.maxwell.syr.edu!surfnet.nl!teleglobe.net!newsfeed.t pinternet.pl!atlantis.news.tpi.pl!news.tpi.pl!not-for-mail Newsgroups: alt.home.repair Organization: tp.internet – http://www.tpi.pl/ Lines: 1 NNTP-Posting-Host: polampackwww.canpack.com.pl X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.21/32.243 cancel forged message

Response:

I was wondering how hard it would be to make basic European cupboards (out of white melamine sheeting) to match the other cupboards in our kitchen?   Cory

try here also: rec.woodworking — The Rogue Canceller – "My entire pathetic life consists of sitting at my computer, using pirated proxy servers, and cancelling arty’s posts in alt.home.repair.  I have not figured out yet that I’m the only one not seeing the ‘cancelled’ posts. I am a true lamer and I will also cancel this one."

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – We need a set of European cupboards for above our fridge and stove, to match the ones opposite the fridge and stove.  We could just buy the designed ones already but they are only 12" deep instead of the 21 inches we would like them to be.  They would be about 20 inches in height, 21 inches deep and 77 inches total width (2 sets of cupboards, 38.5 inches wide each approx.) I was wondering how hard it would be to make basic European cupboards (out of white melamine sheeting) to match the other cupboards in our kitchen?  Any comments?  We would also have to install a range hood for above the stove.  These cupboards would have an oak hand rail on the bottoms of the doors, to match the other cupboards.  Ideas? advice?  We don’t want to spend a great deal on these, just want them to look decent without spending a pile of money (cupboards as you probably know can be very expensive). Cory

Not at all difficult — if you have the tools and skills required. At the best of times melamine-coated particle board, the typical material for Euro cabinets, is a bit tricky to work because it loves to chip when sawed. A very simple form of construction which I’ve used with great success is to use "biscuits" to join the cabinets parts which makes the whole process simpler than the "regulation" dowelled construction. Drilling the required 5mm holes for adjustable shelves can be a real bear without the proper jigs and tools. Edging is easy and requires nothing more sophisticated than a regular home iron, a razor blade, and some patience. Proper Euro doors require that you be able to drill very precisely located 35mm flat-bottomed holes for the hinge cups but you can probably cheat here and use simpler screw-on hidden hinges if there are no clearance problems. The oak strip handle will call for a router for fabrication of the fancy curves. Attachment of strip-to-door can be by biscuits again or by tongue-and-groove technique which is more difficult. — John McGaw [Knoxville, TN, USA] Return address will not work. Please reply in group or through my website: http://johnmcgaw.com

Response:

We need a set of European cupboards for above our fridge and stove, to match the ones opposite the fridge and stove.  We could just buy the designed ones already but they are only 12" deep instead of the 21 inches we would like them to be.  They would be about 20 inches in height, 21 inches deep and 77 inches total width (2 sets of cupboards, 38.5 inches wide each approx.) I was wondering how hard it would be to make basic European cupboards (out of white melamine sheeting) to match the other cupboards in our kitchen?  Any comments?  We would also have to install a range hood for above the stove.  These cupboards would have an oak hand rail on the bottoms of the doors, to match the other cupboards.  Ideas? advice?  We don’t want to spend a great deal on these, just want them to look decent without spending a pile of money (cupboards as you probably know can be very expensive). Cory

Response:

Question:

I am building a wall unit. This will have face frame. I am planning to use inset hinges.I could not find European Inset hinges for face frame cabinets. Does this exists ? Are there Inset Hinges for face frame cabinets ? Thanks

Response:

I was having the same trouble with cabinets in my home. The closest thing I could come up with is a kinda wrap hinge. it sits proud of the frame on the edge facing the opening, it is mortised into the door in a circular mortise. But no Euro hinge that I could come up with. Neil

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am building a wall unit. This will have face frame. I am planning to use inset hinges.I could not find European Inset hinges for face frame cabinets. Does this exists ? Are there Inset Hinges for face frame cabinets ? Thanks

Response:

If the plywood case doesn’t fit flush with the inside of the face frame, I block flush inside the face frame for the mounting plate.  I assume you meant a flush or inset door. For overlay doors, there are face frame mounting plates. Preston

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am building a wall unit. This will have face frame. I am planning to use inset hinges.I could not find European Inset hinges for face frame cabinets. Does this exists ? Are there Inset Hinges for face frame cabinets ? Thanks

Response:

Yeah, I buy the Euro face frame mount hinges by Blum by the hundreds…. Blum Compact 38M Hinges are the one I use all the time and are available from  http://wwhardware.com/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am building a wall unit. This will have face frame. I am planning to use inset hinges.I could not find European Inset hinges for face frame cabinets. Does this exists ? Are there Inset Hinges for face frame cabinets ? Thanks

Response:

I do not know what you mean by European Inset Hinges.  If you are talking about the "standard" kitchen cabinet type of hinge for overlay doors that sit in a 35mm hole in the back of the door; Amerock makes a series for face frame use with overlay plates from 1/4" to 1 5/8" plus a variable plate that will allow greater overlays. — Alan Bierbaum Web Site:  http://www.calanb.com Recent Project Page:   http://www.calanb.com/recent.html Workbench project:  http://www.calanb.com/wbench.html

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am building a wall unit. This will have face frame. I am planning to use inset hinges.I could not find European Inset hinges for face frame cabinets. Does this exists ? Are there Inset Hinges for face frame cabinets ? Thanks

Response:

Question:

Hi, does anybody know what average temperatures we can aspect in April in South-Africa (central Kruger Park)? In celcius please! Thanks in advance. J.

Response:

Corne In April the temperatures are generally very pleasant, with some chance of occasional rain.  It is the end of the summer season, so grasses are long and game viewing more difficult than in the late winter.  However, this year the rains have been lower than usual, so viewing may be better. See: http://www.weathersa.co.za/climat/Climstats/Skukuza%20Stats.html Peter

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, does anybody know what average temperatures we can aspect in April in South-Africa (central Kruger Park)? In celcius please! Thanks in advance. J.

Response:

Thanks Peter! Our parents sure will like that when we take them to SA in April. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Corne In April the temperatures are generally very pleasant, with some chance of occasional rain.  It is the end of the summer season, so grasses are long and game viewing more difficult than in the late winter.  However, this year the rains have been lower than usual, so viewing may be better. See: http://www.weathersa.co.za/climat/Climstats/Skukuza%20Stats.html Peter Hi, does anybody know what average temperatures we can aspect in April in South-Africa (central Kruger Park)? In celcius please! Thanks in advance. J.

Response:

Hi, does anybody know what average temperatures we can aspect in April in South-Africa (central Kruger Park)? In celcius please! Thanks in advance. J.

I was there last April……40c, 80% humidity.  Very unpleasant.  I would not go back without air-conditioning.

Response:

See http://www.actstravel.com/monthly_temp_and_rainfall.html  for average temperature and rainfall for each month. For example April average min = 17C and average max = 27C.  Average rainfall 35mm. If using a hired car, get airconditioning. Often the game veiwing is done through closed windows for safety. The last time I was in Kruger, I saw a viscious looking baboon get into a stopped car through the open window! Not to be advised. In general I like the April weather in South Africa as the continuous hottest weather is finished. Off subject, Cape Town has it’s very best weather December to March. Clive Reid

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Thanks Peter! Our parents sure will like that when we take them to SA in April. Corne In April the temperatures are generally very pleasant, with some chance of occasional rain.  It is the end of the summer season, so grasses are long and game viewing more difficult than in the late winter.  However, this year the rains have been lower than usual, so viewing may be better. See: http://www.weathersa.co.za/climat/Climstats/Skukuza%20Stats.html Peter Hi, does anybody know what average temperatures we can aspect in April in South-Africa (central Kruger Park)? In celcius please! Thanks in advance. J.

Response:

Question:

Guys!  Owen! I bought a 557 at the San Mateo WW Expo about 6 weeks ago and I have inspected it thoroughly.  When sitting on a flat surface, the saw slot (part with the sandpaper surface) has only .010 clearance as compared to the moveable fence which I have it sitting on a table. It doesn’t look like cutting a slot would result in a slot being other than a mere .010 shallower than when cutting in the more usual manner with the fence at right angles to the slot.  In other words when checking the discrepancy, the fence is situated like when you put the tool in its storage case (fence parallel to saw slot)   Before I bought it, I saw much ado about that part been recessed somewhat, requiring the use of a shim from Fly by Night Copper Co…  I had looked at all the pictures describing how to install the shim.  BUT MINE DOESN’T LOOK LIKE IT HAS THE FAMOUS PROBLEM. What’s up with this?  No one on the Wreck to my knowledge has said PC has fixed it.  Mine is definitely a "Type 2". Dave

Response:

Yes, there’s more talk about a problem then their really is. Mine works just fine without the "special shim". Mine is also a type 2. Tim – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Guys!  Owen! I bought a 557 at the San Mateo WW Expo about 6 weeks ago and I have inspected it thoroughly.  When sitting on a flat surface, the saw slot (part with the sandpaper surface) has only .010 clearance as compared to the moveable fence which I have it sitting on a table. It doesn’t look like cutting a slot would result in a slot being other than a mere .010 shallower than when cutting in the more usual manner with the fence at right angles to the slot.  In other words when checking the discrepancy, the fence is situated like when you put the tool in its storage case (fence parallel to saw slot) Before I bought it, I saw much ado about that part been recessed somewhat, requiring the use of a shim from Fly by Night Copper Co…  I had looked at all the pictures describing how to install the shim.  BUT MINE DOESN’T LOOK LIKE IT HAS THE FAMOUS PROBLEM. What’s up with this?  No one on the Wreck to my knowledge has said PC has fixed it.  Mine is definitely a "Type 2". Dave

Response:

So I’m not hallucinating, after all.  Thanks Tim, for the confirmation that all the 557’s don’t exhibit the "DeWALT patent infringement" problem. dave – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Yes, there’s more talk about a problem then their really is. Mine works just fine without the "special shim". Mine is also a type 2. Tim Guys!  Owen! I bought a 557 at the San Mateo WW Expo about 6 weeks ago and I have inspected it thoroughly.  When sitting on a flat surface, the saw slot (part with the sandpaper surface) has only .010 clearance as compared to the moveable fence which I have it sitting on a table. It doesn’t look like cutting a slot would result in a slot being other than a mere .010 shallower than when cutting in the more usual manner with the fence at right angles to the slot.  In other words when checking the discrepancy, the fence is situated like when you put the tool in its storage case (fence parallel to saw slot) Before I bought it, I saw much ado about that part been recessed somewhat, requiring the use of a shim from Fly by Night Copper Co…  I had looked at all the pictures describing how to install the shim.  BUT MINE DOESN’T LOOK LIKE IT HAS THE FAMOUS PROBLEM. What’s up with this?  No one on the Wreck to my knowledge has said PC has fixed it.  Mine is definitely a "Type 2". Dave

Response:

Dave, Any chance you can get me a digital picture of it? I’ll add it to the FAQ. Bernie – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Guys!  Owen! I bought a 557 at the San Mateo WW Expo about 6 weeks ago and I have inspected it thoroughly.  When sitting on a flat surface, the saw slot (part with the sandpaper surface) has only .010 clearance as compared to the moveable fence which I have it sitting on a table. It doesn’t look like cutting a slot would result in a slot being other than a mere .010 shallower than when cutting in the more usual manner with the fence at right angles to the slot.  In other words when checking the discrepancy, the fence is situated like when you put the tool in its storage case (fence parallel to saw slot) Before I bought it, I saw much ado about that part been recessed somewhat, requiring the use of a shim from Fly by Night Copper Co…  I had looked at all the pictures describing how to install the shim.  BUT MINE DOESN’T LOOK LIKE IT HAS THE FAMOUS PROBLEM. What’s up with this?  No one on the Wreck to my knowledge has said PC has fixed it.  Mine is definitely a "Type 2". Dave

Response:

I was wondering when someone would ask.  Yes, I have a Powershot S40. Where do you want it? dave – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Dave, Any chance you can get me a digital picture of it? I’ll add it to the FAQ. Bernie Guys!  Owen! I bought a 557 at the San Mateo WW Expo about 6 weeks ago and I have inspected it thoroughly.  When sitting on a flat surface, the saw slot (part with the sandpaper surface) has only .010 clearance as compared to the moveable fence which I have it sitting on a table. It doesn’t look like cutting a slot would result in a slot being other than a mere .010 shallower than when cutting in the more usual manner with the fence at right angles to the slot.  In other words when checking the discrepancy, the fence is situated like when you put the tool in its storage case (fence parallel to saw slot) Before I bought it, I saw much ado about that part been recessed somewhat, requiring the use of a shim from Fly by Night Copper Co…  I had looked at all the pictures describing how to install the shim.  BUT MINE DOESN’T LOOK LIKE IT HAS THE FAMOUS PROBLEM. What’s up with this?  No one on the Wreck to my knowledge has said PC has fixed it.  Mine is definitely a "Type 2". Dave

Response:

I bought a 557 at the San Mateo WW Expo about 6 weeks ago and I have inspected it thoroughly.  When sitting on a flat surface, the saw slot (part with the sandpaper surface) has only .010 clearance as compared to the moveable fence which I have it sitting on a table. It doesn’t look like cutting a slot would result in a slot being other than a mere .010 shallower than when cutting in the more usual manner with the fence at right angles to the slot.  In other words when checking the discrepancy, the fence is situated like when you put the tool in its storage case (fence parallel to saw slot)  

Very, very interesting B.A.Dave. Just last week I had a fellow email me that his new 557 was very similar to yours with a "tight .015" " instead of .065". Perhaps PC has changed the machining with the idea of pushing the legal envelope. For your machine, you might want to look into replacing the stock sandpaper type gripper strip with some 3M no-skid tape. If I remember correctly, the PC gripper is about .005", the 3M stuff is about .020". You can get it at most hardware stores and it’s sold as a product for slippery floors and stair treads. (Get a big enough piece and trim it after it’s on the tool – the sticky on this stuff is tenacious.) — Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company Offering a shim for the Porter-Cable 557 type 2 fence design. <http://www.flybynightcoppercompany.com <http://www.easystreet.com/~onlnlowe/index.html

Response:

I don’t recall, but isn’t a patent only good for about 7 years.  Perhaps DeWalt’s patent ran out.  After all that’s why there are so many knockoffs of Stanley planes, and why they kept changing them. Cheers, Eric

Response:

So I’m not hallucinating, after all.  Thanks Tim, for the confirmation that all the 557’s don’t exhibit the "DeWALT patent infringement" problem. dave Yes, there’s more talk about a problem then their really is. Mine works just fine without the "special shim". Mine is also a type 2. Tim

Actually, that’s not what he said.  There is only one cut where the shim helps.  When the fence is flat for use in the center of a board, there is a gap.  This is true on mine and why I got the shim.  You can still make the cut without it, by moving the fence down as close as possible to the slot, but the shim takes care of the problem. Note:  If you somehow got a type two retrofitted with a type one fence, you won’t exhibit the  problem.  That is how some people solved the problem before Owen’s shim. Cheers, Eric

Response:

I know there is only one type of cut with an issue.  And I am telling you that my new 557 doesn’t have that problem.  I did my research before I bought it.  I looked at the pics posted at Owen’s site and ready everything on Google.  That’s why I posted the "Doubting Thomas" thread.  I am going to provide pictures, but am waiting to find out where to post them. dave – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – So I’m not hallucinating, after all.  Thanks Tim, for the confirmation that all the 557’s don’t exhibit the "DeWALT patent infringement" problem. dave Yes, there’s more talk about a problem then their really is. Mine works just fine without the "special shim". Mine is also a type 2. Tim Actually, that’s not what he said.  There is only one cut where the shim helps.  When the fence is flat for use in the center of a board, there is a gap.  This is true on mine and why I got the shim.  You can still make the cut without it, by moving the fence down as close as possible to the slot, but the shim takes care of the problem. Note:  If you somehow got a type two retrofitted with a type one fence, you won’t exhibit the  problem.  That is how some people solved the problem before Owen’s shim. Cheers, Eric

Response:

For your machine, you might want to look into replacing the stock sandpaper type gripper strip with some 3M no-skid tape. If I remember correctly, the PC gripper is about .005", the 3M stuff is about .020". You can get it at most hardware stores and it’s sold as a product for slippery floors and stair treads. (Get a big enough piece and trim it after it’s on the tool – the sticky on this stuff is tenacious.)

Any skateboard shop throws away many pieces big enough to fit on a daily basis.  Just hang around long enough for a grip tape job on a board and take the scraps.  I guess you’d have to find a shop that uses the right stuff. Chris —  Chris Richmond         | I don’t speak for Intel & vise versa    

Response:

Dave, I sent you my email address, but also post them on alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking That way everyone can see them right away. I’m having web site driver issues so it may take a couple of days for me to get them in the faq. Bernie – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I know there is only one type of cut with an issue.  And I am telling you that my new 557 doesn’t have that problem.  I did my research before I bought it.  I looked at the pics posted at Owen’s site and ready everything on Google.  That’s why I posted the "Doubting Thomas" thread.  I am going to provide pictures, but am waiting to find out where to post them. dave So I’m not hallucinating, after all.  Thanks Tim, for the confirmation that all the 557’s don’t exhibit the "DeWALT patent infringement" problem. dave Yes, there’s more talk about a problem then their really is. Mine works just fine without the "special shim". Mine is also a type 2. Tim Actually, that’s not what he said.  There is only one cut where the shim helps.  When the fence is flat for use in the center of a board, there is a gap.  This is true on mine and why I got the shim.  You can still make the cut without it, by moving the fence down as close as possible to the slot, but the shim takes care of the problem. Note:  If you somehow got a type two retrofitted with a type one fence, you won’t exhibit the  problem.  That is how some people solved the problem before Owen’s shim. Cheers, Eric

Response:

I posted the picture to alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking as "doubting thomases – PC 557".   dave – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – So I’m not hallucinating, after all.  Thanks Tim, for the confirmation that all the 557’s don’t exhibit the "DeWALT patent infringement" problem. dave Yes, there’s more talk about a problem then their really is. Mine works just fine without the "special shim". Mine is also a type 2. Tim Actually, that’s not what he said.  There is only one cut where the shim helps.  When the fence is flat for use in the center of a board, there is a gap.  This is true on mine and why I got the shim.  You can still make the cut without it, by moving the fence down as close as possible to the slot, but the shim takes care of the problem. Note:  If you somehow got a type two retrofitted with a type one fence, you won’t exhibit the  problem.  That is how some people solved the problem before Owen’s shim. Cheers, Eric

Response:

i just did – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Dave, I sent you my email address, but also post them on alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking That way everyone can see them right away. I’m having web site driver issues so it may take a couple of days for me to get them in the faq. Bernie I know there is only one type of cut with an issue.  And I am telling you that my new 557 doesn’t have that problem.  I did my research before I bought it.  I looked at the pics posted at Owen’s site and ready everything on Google.  That’s why I posted the "Doubting Thomas" thread.  I am going to provide pictures, but am waiting to find out where to post them. dave So I’m not hallucinating, after all.  Thanks Tim, for the confirmation that all the 557’s don’t exhibit the "DeWALT patent infringement" problem. dave Yes, there’s more talk about a problem then their really is. Mine works just fine without the "special shim". Mine is also a type 2. Tim Actually, that’s not what he said.  There is only one cut where the shim helps.  When the fence is flat for use in the center of a board, there is a gap.  This is true on mine and why I got the shim.  You can still make the cut without it, by moving the fence down as close as possible to the slot, but the shim takes care of the problem. Note:  If you somehow got a type two retrofitted with a type one fence, you won’t exhibit the  problem.  That is how some people solved the problem before Owen’s shim. Cheers, Eric

Response:

I just left a message on Terry Stockwell’s voice mail at PC. Well see if he knows anything about a new fence or if he’s able to comment. Bernie

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Dave, I sent you my email address, but also post them on alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking That way everyone can see them right away. I’m having web site driver issues so it may take a couple of days for me to get them in the faq. Bernie I know there is only one type of cut with an issue.  And I am telling you that my new 557 doesn’t have that problem.  I did my research before I bought it.  I looked at the pics posted at Owen’s site and ready everything on Google.  That’s why I posted the "Doubting Thomas" thread.  I am going to provide pictures, but am waiting to find out where to post them. dave So I’m not hallucinating, after all.  Thanks Tim, for the confirmation that all the 557’s don’t exhibit the "DeWALT patent infringement" problem. dave Yes, there’s more talk about a problem then their really is. Mine works just fine without the "special shim". Mine is also a type 2. Tim Actually, that’s not what he said.  There is only one cut where the shim helps.  When the fence is flat for use in the center of a board, there is a gap.  This is true on mine and why I got the shim.  You can still make the cut without it, by moving the fence down as close as possible to the slot, but the shim takes care of the problem. Note:  If you somehow got a type two retrofitted with a type one fence, you won’t exhibit the  problem.  That is how some people solved the problem before Owen’s shim. Cheers, Eric

Response:

Cool, thanks Owen! I just posted a picture on the binaries… Can i use a hair dryer to get off the old stuff? dave – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I bought a 557 at the San Mateo WW Expo about 6 weeks ago and I have inspected it thoroughly.  When sitting on a flat surface, the saw slot (part with the sandpaper surface) has only .010 clearance as compared to the moveable fence which I have it sitting on a table. It doesn’t look like cutting a slot would result in a slot being other than a mere .010 shallower than when cutting in the more usual manner with the fence at right angles to the slot.  In other words when checking the discrepancy, the fence is situated like when you put the tool in its storage case (fence parallel to saw slot) Very, very interesting B.A.Dave. Just last week I had a fellow email me that his new 557 was very similar to yours with a "tight .015" " instead of .065". Perhaps PC has changed the machining with the idea of pushing the legal envelope. For your machine, you might want to look into replacing the stock sandpaper type gripper strip with some 3M no-skid tape. If I remember correctly, the PC gripper is about .005", the 3M stuff is about .020". You can get it at most hardware stores and it’s sold as a product for slippery floors and stair treads. (Get a big enough piece and trim it after it’s on the tool – the sticky on this stuff is tenacious.) — Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company Offering a shim for the Porter-Cable 557 type 2 fence design. <http://www.flybynightcoppercompany.com <http://www.easystreet.com/~onlnlowe/index.html

Response:

I don’t recall, but isn’t a patent only good for about 7 years.  Perhaps DeWalt’s patent ran out.  After all that’s why there are so many knockoffs of Stanley planes, and why they kept changing them.

Seven*teen* years for U.S. patents, I believe… Regards,         Doug Miller — Real email address is alphageek /at/ milmac /dot/ com .. Ted Kennedy’s car has killed more people than my gun.

Response:

I know there is only one type of cut with an issue.  And I am telling you that my new 557 doesn’t have that problem.  I did my research before I bought it.  I looked at the pics posted at Owen’s site and ready everything on Google.  That’s why I posted the "Doubting Thomas" thread.  I am going to provide pictures, but am waiting to find out where to post them.

I understand, but all Tim said was that he didn’t have any problem making the cut, which is certainly doable on the units with the problem and without the shim.  The shim just makes it easier.  I was not making any comment on your unit, other than the fact that type one fences can be, and have been, retrofitted to type two units.  In another post I also noted that we don’t know how old the DeWalt patent is that caused Porter Cable to make them differently.  Perhaps the patent ran out, or perhaps some time period was agreed to in the settlement, or perhaps Porter Cable changed something else that allows them to get past the problem. Cheers, Eric

Response:

Eric, Did you look at the pics?  It isn’t a matter of just "doable"; it’s a matter of there is nothing wrong with the current incarnation. dave – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I know there is only one type of cut with an issue.  And I am telling you that my new 557 doesn’t have that problem.  I did my research before I bought it.  I looked at the pics posted at Owen’s site and ready everything on Google.  That’s why I posted the "Doubting Thomas" thread.  I am going to provide pictures, but am waiting to find out where to post them. I understand, but all Tim said was that he didn’t have any problem making the cut, which is certainly doable on the units with the problem and without the shim.  The shim just makes it easier.  I was not making any comment on your unit, other than the fact that type one fences can be, and have been, retrofitted to type two units.  In another post I also noted that we don’t know how old the DeWalt patent is that caused Porter Cable to make them differently.  Perhaps the patent ran out, or perhaps some time period was agreed to in the settlement, or perhaps Porter Cable changed something else that allows them to get past the problem. Cheers, Eric

Response:

Did you look at the pics?  It isn’t a matter of just "doable"; it’s a matter of there is nothing wrong with the current incarnation.

But the sandpaper still won’t touch the material, will it? It can qualify as a minor defect. I received my 557 few days ago and checked it out. I need to go buy new set of filler gauge, but from what I could tell with my old rusty ones, I have about .35mm gap. It is significantly less than 1/16” (~1.6mm) that has been reported. Jenya

Response:

Jenya, Mine is exactly .010 off.  close enough for me.  Besides, Owen suggested just changing out the surface for some thicker 3M stuff.  That’s a good idea if you really think it’s necessary. dave – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Did you look at the pics?  It isn’t a matter of just "doable"; it’s a matter of there is nothing wrong with the current incarnation. But the sandpaper still won’t touch the material, will it? It can qualify as a minor defect. I received my 557 few days ago and checked it out. I need to go buy new set of filler gauge, but from what I could tell with my old rusty ones, I have about .35mm gap. It is significantly less than 1/16” (~1.6mm) that has been reported. Jenya

Response:

Eric, Did you look at the pics?  It isn’t a matter of just "doable"; it’s a matter of there is nothing wrong with the current incarnation. dave

Can’t get to them from this machine.  Too many firewalls and filters. Cheers, Eric

Response:

Can i use a hair dryer to get off the old stuff?

Yeah I’m sure that may help release the adhesive – I think I just peeled mine off with no problem tho. — Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company Offering a shim for the Porter-Cable 557 type 2 fence design. <http://www.flybynightcoppercompany.com <http://www.easystreet.com/~onlnlowe/index.html

Response:

ok, thanks, Owen. Look at the fiasco of a thread on binaries.  I’m losing my cool over it.  People can’t see the picture I posted, some say its too big, some say its too small. Eric can’t get to it.  Will you please take a look and tell me what you see?  thanks! dave – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Can i use a hair dryer to get off the old stuff? Yeah I’m sure that may help release the adhesive – I think I just peeled mine off with no problem tho. — Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company Offering a shim for the Porter-Cable 557 type 2 fence design. <http://www.flybynightcoppercompany.com <http://www.easystreet.com/~onlnlowe/index.html

Response:

The pic looked good to me. frank – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – ok, thanks, Owen. Look at the fiasco of a thread on binaries.  I’m losing my cool over it.  People can’t see the picture I posted, some say its too big, some say its too small. Eric can’t get to it.  Will you please take a look and tell me what you see?  thanks! dave Can i use a hair dryer to get off the old stuff? Yeah I’m sure that may help release the adhesive – I think I just peeled mine off with no problem tho. — Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company Offering a shim for the Porter-Cable 557 type 2 fence design. <http://www.flybynightcoppercompany.com <http://www.easystreet.com/~onlnlowe/index.html

Response:

looks fine to me.

Response:

Question:

Im in the planning stages of building an armoire style entertainment center.  I want to use flipper (pocket) doors.  The cabinet will be 48" wide.  The face frame will be 3" wide. The doors will be inset doors. Allowing for the gaps between the 2 doors and the doors and face frame that means the doors will be about 20 1/2" wide each.  Heres the question:  With 20 1/2" doors, would I be correct in ordering the 22" accuride slides? (The cabinet will be 24" deep)

Response:

Yep, they would work.  You really don’t need the doors to retract completely into the cabinet, it makes them hard to get back out.  I strongly suggest you use the Accuride slides with the  cables, I forget the number.  They have no racking problems, and are actually quite easy to install.  I have found that when boring the doors for the cup hinges, it is best to use a 8mm setback (instead of 4-5mm) for the edge of the 35mm hole and then use a 3mm (instead of 0mm) thick mounting plate to offset the wide setback.  This keeps the door face from rubbing on the front rollers when retracting the doors.  You will see what I mean when you actually do it.  If you are using any kind of panel doors with a frame, be sure and mount the slides where the front roller will roll on the rails, and not fall into the  panel. Jamie – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Im in the planning stages of building an armoire style entertainment center.  I want to use flipper (pocket) doors.  The cabinet will be 48" wide.  The face frame will be 3" wide. The doors will be inset doors. Allowing for the gaps between the 2 doors and the doors and face frame that means the doors will be about 20 1/2" wide each.  Heres the question:  With 20 1/2" doors, would I be correct in ordering the 22" accuride slides? (The cabinet will be 24" deep)

Response:

I agree about the cable hardware. I used the cheaper set once, I think ROckler match the tapped holes. Mounting the unit took no time. Making 4 custom mounting screws took longer. I got what I paid for.

Response:

Question:

Hello! I have a couple of questions for those who have experience with Euro hinges, preferably Blum Compact 33. 1) What is the difference in application for the edge versus wrap around mount.    For 1 1/4" overlay their parameters seem to be identical. I see that the edge requires two screws where the wrap around only one (larger) screw. On the other hand when installing two hinges the distance between centers of the hinge cup holes is equal to the distance between the drill points for the wrap around screws. This is convenient. Any comments? 2) What can be the minimal width of a stile? It seems to me that 2" is sufficient but others insist on 2 1/4". Your response is greatly appreciated

Response:

I have built many kitchen cabinet doors and used the Blum style hinges. With the 35mm hinges, 1-3/8", your styles can be as narrow as 1-3/4" if your styles are square cornered.  If your styles have a molded profile in the inside edge, you need to take that into consideration.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello! I have a couple of questions for those who have experience with Euro hinges, preferably Blum Compact 33. 1) What is the difference in application for the edge versus wrap around mount.    For 1 1/4" overlay their parameters seem to be identical. I see that the edge requires two screws where the wrap around only one (larger) screw. On the other hand when installing two hinges the distance between centers of the hinge cup holes is equal to the distance between the drill points for the wrap around screws. This is convenient. Any comments? 2) What can be the minimal width of a stile? It seems to me that 2" is sufficient but others insist on 2 1/4". Your response is greatly appreciated

Response: