Question:

Does anyboby know if those homestyle flatbed scanners, eg HP, are worth a damn for scanning 3×5 photos?  I got this old Minolta that I dearly love and would like to keep using… Thanks ahead, Kathy

Response:

Scanners have gotten cheaper and better in the last five years.   If you love the scanner you have, why not keep using it? In article <0f1729e44795364014032390b8297…@localhost.talkaboutsupport.com>, – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text - "kjoh" <kjohyay…@nospamyahoo.com> wrote: > Does anyboby know if those homestyle flatbed scanners, eg HP, are worth a > damn for scanning 3×5 photos?  I got this old Minolta that I dearly love > and would like to keep using… > Thanks ahead, > Kathy

Response:

Hey there Gordo, the Minolta I referred to is a 20-year-old 35mm camera that takes beautiful photos, and I have a couple of nice lenses.  I would like to get a flatbed scanner to get some of my photos online, but I suspect there will be a problem with resolution?  i can take slides, but I have heard that slide scanners are expensive, and slides are a pain in general. kj

Response:

Kathy, most flatbed scanners should include a tools/setup software bundle that allows you to scan in the image at your choice of resolution settings (the preview pane is lower res) You will have to resize the scan afterwords to get the size of image you want to forward.  Scanning at 300 dpi has always served me well. hope this helps… cj—————————— "kjoh" <kjohyay…@nospamyahoo.com> wrote in message

news:90ecd97f00868e4ec02a5213c8c81f94@localhost.talkaboutsupport.com… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hey there Gordo, the Minolta I referred to is a 20-year-old 35mm camera > that takes beautiful photos, and I have a couple of nice lenses.  I would > like to get a flatbed scanner to get some of my photos online, but I > suspect there will be a problem with resolution?  i can take slides, but I > have heard that slide scanners are expensive, and slides are a pain in > general. > kj

Response:

"Gordo Mondragon" <ga_mondra…@yahoo.com> wrote in message

news:ga_mondragon-6900C8.06100411102005@nyctyp02-ge0.rdc-nyc.rr.com… > When I want snapshot-sized prints I just upload the files to > printroom.com or snapfish.com and they mail me 4×6 or 5×7 on real photo > paper.  I only use my big photo printer for big prints ’cause of the > cost of the ink.

Check eBay, Gordo.  I get remanufactured cartridges from a place in South Carolina for half the price of new ones, and they’re good quality.

Response:

When I want snapshot-sized prints I just upload the files to printroom.com or snapfish.com and they mail me 4×6 or 5×7 on real photo paper.  I only use my big photo printer for big prints ’cause of the cost of the ink. In article <XcOdnSbs4vTU39beRVn…@adelphia.com>, – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text - "doogie" <dt12(remove)@adelphia.net> wrote: > I have a scanner printer photocopier(photocopier looks just like original > picture) that costs a less than a hundred at  Wal-Mart,  Pictures scan > perfect for me…..  Ink is expensive so more economical to use high quality > refill kits…..  also works as a fax…   Lexmark         doogie > "kjoh" <kjohyay…@nospamyahoo.com> wrote in message > news:0da0e2502cba4a53ea604238e2e0de5d@localhost.talkaboutsupport.com… > > Hey thanks kindly for your thoughts on the scanner idea, peoples. That > > Canoscan looks pretty interesting, Gordo.  I didn’t know there was such a > > thing.  Would be great to find one that works as a photocopier as well. > > Another beautiful day here.  Hard frost last night. The Macintosh apples > > are perfectly ripe now.  Hooray.  We love those antioxidants. > > Kathy

Response:

I have a scanner printer photocopier(photocopier looks just like original picture) that costs a less than a hundred at  Wal-Mart,  Pictures scan perfect for me…..  Ink is expensive so more economical to use high quality refill kits…..  also works as a fax…   Lexmark         doogie "kjoh" <kjohyay…@nospamyahoo.com> wrote in message

news:0da0e2502cba4a53ea604238e2e0de5d@localhost.talkaboutsupport.com… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hey thanks kindly for your thoughts on the scanner idea, peoples. That > Canoscan looks pretty interesting, Gordo.  I didn’t know there was such a > thing.  Would be great to find one that works as a photocopier as well. > Another beautiful day here.  Hard frost last night. The Macintosh apples > are perfectly ripe now.  Hooray.  We love those antioxidants. > Kathy

Response:

"kjoh" <kjohyay…@nospamyahoo.com> wrote in message

news:0f1729e44795364014032390b8297809@localhost.talkaboutsupport.com… > Does anyboby know if those homestyle flatbed scanners, eg HP, are worth a > damn for scanning 3×5 photos?  I got this old Minolta that I dearly love > and would like to keep using… > Thanks ahead, > Kathy

My kids have family portraits taken, which cost an arm and a leg, so they buy one copy that I scan and print for everyone else.  We honestly can’t tell the difference between the original and the copy except for the paper. The quality is excellent.

Response:

Hey thanks kindly for your thoughts on the scanner idea, peoples. That Canoscan looks pretty interesting, Gordo.  I didn’t know there was such a thing.  Would be great to find one that works as a photocopier as well.   Another beautiful day here.  Hard frost last night. The Macintosh apples are perfectly ripe now.  Hooray.  We love those antioxidants. Kathy

Response:

"kjoh" <kjohyay…@nospamyahoo.com> wrote in message

news:0f1729e44795364014032390b8297809@localhost.talkaboutsupport.com… > Does anyboby know if those homestyle flatbed scanners, eg HP, are worth a > damn for scanning 3×5 photos?  I got this old Minolta that I dearly love > and would like to keep using… > Thanks ahead, > Kathy

Hi Kathy, To match the quality of high-end photographs, you’ll want to find a high-end scanner (not one of the "free" bonuses you get when you buy a new computer system). HP’s not bad, but you should do some comparisons via the internet before you decide which puppy to bring home. All that said, you may be disappointed in the quality, even with a good scanner, because it will also scan any imperfections in the photo, i.e. dust, scratches, lint, cat fur… that are easy to collect. But, if your use is to put your scanned images on the internet, don’t worry and don’t buy an expensive scanner because you’ll be using low resolution for that purpose. Waterspider p.s. My first scanner was a hand-held thingy about the size of a pack of cigarettes (much fatter though), and you needed a *very* steady hand to roll its four-inch scan reader over the surface you were scanning. It cost me over $400 Cdn. :-)

Response:

Like I said, things have completely changed in the last couple of years. Something like this could be what you’re looking for: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002U40NG/103-5430849-9735851?v=gla… n=172282&n=172584&s=electronics&v=glance For resolution for pictures you want to put online this should be more than fine.  It has a max resolution of 3,200 x 6,400 dpi which is pretty impressive (although the real resolution is just 3,200, the 6,400 is sort of a fake number.)   My 6mp camera gives me an image thats roughly 3000 pixels by 2000 pixels.   A 35mm slide/negative is roughly 1 x 1.5 so with this scanner you’d get 3200 x 4800 pixels.  Monitors display around 72dpi, so that means your 35mm negative is going to be 44in by 66in on the screen.  I think that’s more than enough resolution for you to play with. It will also scan prints up to 8.5×11in.  It also comes with Photoshop Elements which is a great program. For $123 it seems to be an incredible deal. One thing to keep in mind – computer images take up a lot of space.  You might need to get a new hard drive but they’re really cheap now as well. You could also send your film to a lab that would scan the negs for you, doesn’t help you with your old photos but might make it easier with the ones you take now.  I don’t do that, but I’ve heard of this place where you can download your photos after sending in film. http://www.clarkcolor.com/welcome/t_=0 I love doing everything digitally, but if you’ve got a setup you like this might make sense. Gordo In article <90ecd97f00868e4ec02a5213c8c81…@localhost.talkaboutsupport.com>, – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text - "kjoh" <kjohyay…@nospamyahoo.com> wrote: > Hey there Gordo, the Minolta I referred to is a 20-year-old 35mm camera > that takes beautiful photos, and I have a couple of nice lenses.  I would > like to get a flatbed scanner to get some of my photos online, but I > suspect there will be a problem with resolution?  i can take slides, but I > have heard that slide scanners are expensive, and slides are a pain in > general. > kj

Response:

Question:

Yes, but flattening the face exaggerates the chins, so perhaps I should use a slightly shorter focal length. Use the largest lens-aperture you can, and focus on the eyes (tricky with a self-portrait – but blurred eyes are just about the worst mistake in a conventional portrait).  The wide aperture will help to make everything behind the face out of focus and less noticeable. Using a large aperture means you need less light – perhaps no flash at all – which will also flatter, especially if it’s diffuse low- contrast light such as a north-facing window on a cloudy day.

Thanks for the advice.

Response:

snip Using a longish lens is certainly the right way to go – for 35mm format, the classic portrait lens is between about 85 and 100mm. Yes, but flattening the face exaggerates the chins, so perhaps I should use a slightly shorter focal length.

Use the largest lens-aperture you can, and focus on the eyes (tricky with a self-portrait – but blurred eyes are just about the worst mistake in a conventional portrait).  The wide aperture will help to make everything behind the face out of focus and less noticeable.   Using a large aperture means you need less light – perhaps no flash at all – which will also flatter, especially if it’s diffuse low- contrast light such as a north-facing window on a cloudy day. — —  Whiskers

Response:

I hope I don’t really look as bad as in the photo,

Nobody I’ve seen yet looks as bad as their photo *g*  but if I don’t, will they accept my credit card? :)

Well, it’s usually more trouble than it’s worth to question it, so unless someone appears to be a different race or gender to their photo, I usually just accept it. Or if their signature doesn’t match or something. Amy

Response:

Next time, you’ll know better :) )

Yes, I’ve got to hide that double chin. :) ) A diffuse light is better than full-frontal flash; If you have to use flash, could you ‘bounce’ the light off a pale wall and/or ceiling (cream white or grey for preference – other colours can make the complexion look very weird). If your camera doesn’t have ‘through the lens’ flash metering, you will need to either increase the power of the flash or open up the lens by one stop (as a ‘rule of thumb’).  Having the camera slightly higher than your face, so that you have to tilt your head up a little, also helps to straighten out the flab a little.

Yes, that would also put the flab in the shadow, so it would be less conspicuous Using a longish lens is certainly the right way to go – for 35mm format, the classic portrait lens is between about 85 and 100mm.

Yes, but flattening the face exaggerates the chins, so perhaps I should use a slightly shorter focal length. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – All this doesn’t change the fact that I really *am* too fat and ugly. — —  Whiskers

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The technology they use for these is crap. Probably because they use lenses with a short focal length, so that the whole head can be included from close up thus saving space in the ’studio’, and lighting that flatters no-one. I took mine myself, with a long focal length, which does flatten the face. Unfortunately, that also seems to emphasize the extra fat under my chin, so a shorter focal length might actually have been better. The lighting was definitely unflattering; using the built-in flash in my digital camera, which illuminated my chin very brightly. Raising the light source would probably have put my chin in the shadow, giving a more flattering impression.

Next time, you’ll know better :) )  A diffuse light is better than full-frontal flash; If you have to use flash, could you ‘bounce’ the light off a pale wall and/or ceiling (cream white or grey for preference – other colours can make the complexion look very weird).   If your camera doesn’t have ‘through the lens’ flash metering, you will need to either increase the power of the flash or open up the lens by one stop (as a ‘rule of thumb’).  Having the camera slightly higher than your face, so that you have to tilt your head up a little, also helps to straighten out the flab a little.  Using a longish lens is certainly the right way to go – for 35mm format, the classic portrait lens is between about 85 and 100mm. All this doesn’t change the fact that I really *am* too fat and ugly.

– —  Whiskers

Response:

The technology they use for these is crap. Probably because they use lenses with a short focal length, so that the whole head can be included from close up thus saving space in the ’studio’, and lighting that flatters no-one.

I took mine myself, with a long focal length, which does flatten the face. Unfortunately, that also seems to emphasize the extra fat under my chin, so a shorter focal length might actually have been better. The lighting was definitely unflattering; using the built-in flash in my digital camera, which illuminated my chin very brightly. Raising the light source would probably have put my chin in the shadow, giving a more flattering impression. All this doesn’t change the fact that I really *am* too fat and ugly.

Response:

snip The technology they use for these is crap.

Probably because they use lenses with a short focal length, so that the whole head can be included from close up thus saving space in the ’studio’, and lighting that flatters no-one. I did hear of a ‘VIP’ in Britain who went to a very prestigious portrait photographer and paid a lot for a passport photo – which was rejected by the ‘authorities’ because it had the wrong back-ground. My driving-licence picture looks quite scary. — —  Whiskers

Response:

Interesting. Maybe using a wide angle lens would make me look thinner. I’ll try that next time. I hope I don’t really look as bad as in the photo, but if I don’t, will they accept my credit card? :)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The camera really *does* add at least ten pounds, as it flattens the image. I know it makes you feel ugly, but take heart, I work in retail and I have seen hundreds of drivers’ licences, credit cards etc, and nobody looked half as bad as they did in the photos. Actually, I was hesitant to accept some because they looked nothing like their owners. I’ve been so surprised by some of them I’ve blurted out, ‘wow, you look so much nicer than your photo’. The technology they use for these is crap. Amy

Response:

The camera really *does* add at least ten pounds, as it flattens the image. I know it makes you feel ugly, but take heart, I work in retail and I have seen hundreds of drivers’ licences, credit cards etc, and nobody looked half as bad as they did in the photos. Actually, I was hesitant to accept some because they looked nothing like their owners. I’ve been so surprised by some of them I’ve blurted out, ‘wow, you look so much nicer than your photo’. The technology they use for these is crap. Amy

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – on my credit card. It’s a photograph of me. I’m truly the ugliest person in the world, and I’m obviously becoming really fat too.

Response:

on my credit card. It’s a photograph of me. I’m truly the ugliest person in the world, and I’m obviously becoming really fat too. (((((((Marty)))))))) I’ve been struggling with some weight gain too. Angela

Thanks. Sorry that you have the same problem.

Response:

on my credit card. It’s a photograph of me. I’m truly the ugliest person in the world, and I’m obviously becoming really fat too.

(((((((Marty)))))))) I’ve been struggling with some weight gain too. Angela

Response:

on my credit card. It’s a photograph of me. I’m truly the ugliest person in the world, and I’m obviously becoming really fat too.

Response:

Question:

~golf clap~

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Most boaters have a camera or two aboard. I’ve discovered a particularly honest camera shop in the Seattle area. My 35mm Contax SLR began behaving badly in the middle of a photo shoot yesterday. It seemed that nothing could be done to stop the film from automatically rewinding each time the shutter was triggered. Worse, this was the second time in the last few years I’d experienced this problem. Last time, a local camera shop "repaired" it, for about $150. The Contax was originally purchased, barely used, from Kenmore Camera. I thought I’d investigate the cost of upgrading to a newer model, or at least buying a cheap "back-up" body of some type that would accomodate my set of Zeiss lenses so I could keep working while the Contax languished in the shop, again. Kenmore Camera had a nice, used Contax with some whiz bang features. $600. After disclosing the current problem with my present Contax, I asked the salesperson whether they would allow something on trade. I detoured to the rest room while he showed my somewhat battered old veteran to his boss. After emerging from the rest room, I was relieved in more ways than one. "Your camera’s all fixed, sir!" said the salesperson. "What?!" "Yeah. There’s a little tiny spot on the bottom of the camera, and if you find something small enough to press in on that particular spot, it will reset the computer. That’s all you really needed all along. Here, I’ll show you exactly where that spot is. If this ever happens again, just take the end of a paper clip or something and you can reset this yourself. I’ll bet you had to change your batteries just before this happened, right?" "Right." " My boss said that once in a while an extremely low battery situation will trigger the situation you were experiencing." Wow. I was all ready to trade in my old camera and spend a few hundred bucks or so on the upgrade. They could have said, "Gee, we’re really sorry but since your camera isn’t working we’ll just have to take it in for parts and we’ll give you $25." Five minutes after I left the store the camera could have been up for sale, (button pushed), for at least a couple of hundred dollars. So instead of making a sale, they made a customer. Wise move. So wise, in fact, that I "rewarded" Kenmore Camera and celebrated my good fortune with the purchase of a new 19-35mm f/3.5-4.5 lens. They still made a deal, after all. I thought I’d pass the word along to any rec.boaters in the Puget Sound area: you’ll encounter remarkable honesty at Kenmore Camera. Wish they were a little closer to my house. (There were about six salespeople working there on Saturday, all were busy, and there was still a lineup. Easy to see why.)

Response:

Wow….good testimonial.  I’ll keep them in mind.  I bought my Sony Mavica from some nice Jewish boys at 21st Century Camera in Brooklyn some time ago.  They delivered what they said they would at the price agreed to with excellent fast service and threw in the nicest leather camera case made for it I ever saw.  They also had the lowest price in the huge camera shopper, too.  "For you, we’ve got suuch a deal!  Oy Vay!"  He sounded exactly like Georgie Jessel….(c; Let’s plug their webpage, while we’ve found an honest one…. http://www.kcamera.com/ KENMORE CAMERA 18031 67th Ave Ne Kenmore WA 98028 425-485-7447 or toll free 1-888-485-7447 Open Monday – Friday 9:00-7:00, Saturday 9:00-5:00 PST There…..that’s better. Ok, which marine dealer or manufacturer would like our loyal attention??…..(c;  Sell us a new boat!  Pfat Chance, eh? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Most boaters have a camera or two aboard. I’ve discovered a particularly honest camera shop in the Seattle area. My 35mm Contax SLR began behaving badly in the middle of a photo shoot yesterday. It seemed that nothing could be done to stop the film from automatically rewinding each time the shutter was triggered. Worse, this was the second time in the last few years I’d experienced this problem. Last time, a local camera shop "repaired" it, for about $150. The Contax was originally purchased, barely used, from Kenmore Camera. I thought I’d investigate the cost of upgrading to a newer model, or at least buying a cheap "back-up" body of some type that would accomodate my set of Zeiss lenses so I could keep working while the Contax languished in the shop, again. Kenmore Camera had a nice, used Contax with some whiz bang features. $600. After disclosing the current problem with my present Contax, I asked the salesperson whether they would allow something on trade. I detoured to the rest room while he showed my somewhat battered old veteran to his boss. After emerging from the rest room, I was relieved in more ways than one. "Your camera’s all fixed, sir!" said the salesperson. "What?!" "Yeah. There’s a little tiny spot on the bottom of the camera, and if you find something small enough to press in on that particular spot, it will reset the computer. That’s all you really needed all along. Here, I’ll show you exactly where that spot is. If this ever happens again, just take the end of a paper clip or something and you can reset this yourself. I’ll bet you had to change your batteries just before this happened, right?" "Right." " My boss said that once in a while an extremely low battery situation will trigger the situation you were experiencing." Wow. I was all ready to trade in my old camera and spend a few hundred bucks or so on the upgrade. They could have said, "Gee, we’re really sorry but since your camera isn’t working we’ll just have to take it in for parts and we’ll give you $25." Five minutes after I left the store the camera could have been up for sale, (button pushed), for at least a couple of hundred dollars. So instead of making a sale, they made a customer. Wise move. So wise, in fact, that I "rewarded" Kenmore Camera and celebrated my good fortune with the purchase of a new 19-35mm f/3.5-4.5 lens. They still made a deal, after all. I thought I’d pass the word along to any rec.boaters in the Puget Sound area: you’ll encounter remarkable honesty at Kenmore Camera. Wish they were a little closer to my house. (There were about six salespeople working there on Saturday, all were busy, and there was still a lineup. Easy to see why.)

Larry

Response:

I can’t STAND when newspapers/magazines take a digital or scanned picture, and blow up the zoom so much that the image gets pixelized. Don’t publications hire photo editors anymore? Nope, desk top publishing ended that proffession. Any idiot can do layout now.

"Desk top"? "Proffession"? Yep, any idiot can do layout now. — Skipper

Response:

Nope, desk top publishing ended that proffession. Any idiot can do layout now. "Desk top"? "Proffession"? Yep, any idiot can do layout now.

Yeah, it used to require a bit of skill, making half tones and litho stips to the right size and orienting them onto the master sheet, now it’s all drag and drop and a click of the mouse. http://hometown.aol.com/hlaviation/

Response:

Nope, desk top publishing ended that proffession. Any idiot can do layout now. "Desk top"? "Proffession"? Yep, any idiot can do layout now. Yeah, it used to require a bit of skill, making half tones and litho stips to the right size and orienting them onto the master sheet, now it’s all drag and drop and a click of the mouse. http://hometown.aol.com/hlaviation/

One can drag, drop and click all one likes, but if one doesn’t have artistic ability, skills and experience, whatever one designs will look like crap. We still use illustrators, typesetters, graphics artists, et cetera, because our clients demand professional-looking final product, not crapola from the amateur hour.

Response:

The early Brownies were 117 film.  My mother had a Brownie, which my father left in the woods on a hunting trip, Mom still complains.  The quality of the pictures is still great.  Both the clarity and the lifespan of those old B/W films.  I think the 627 was 120 on a different roller package. Bill

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Your Brownie probably used 627 film. Same size film as 120 but on a different spool. Somebody sells it respooled for those that like using the older cameras. Nikon’s new 4500 promises to be a nice camera. The Canon G2 is also. Both are priced between $720 & $800. The Olympus E20 is also excellent, albeit at a premium price. Nikon’s new 5700 will compete with Olympus. Wide angle lenses are a problem. More objectionable than the size and weight of good quality wide angle attachments, is the flare. You have to use some sort of shielding device (hand’s okay) when the sun is in an unfavorable position. 4 mp or above is okay for outstanding prints. Mike One of my Brownies shot 120, maybe the Brownie Starflash. But one of my Brownies shot some oddball film, I think. The Russians are making a knock-off of that Yashica, sells new for a couple hundred buckeroos. I’m playing around with a Nikon 885, a digital camera. It takes decent photos if you don’t need giant enlargements, but I still like a 35 mm SLR better. That would be it.,..627…thanks…and I agree with your comments about digital cameras.

Response:

I can’t STAND when newspapers/magazines take a digital or scanned picture, and blow up the zoom so much that the image gets pixelized.  Don’t publications hire photo editors anymore?

Nope, desk top publishing ended that proffession. Any idiot can do layout now. http://hometown.aol.com/hlaviation/

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Your Brownie probably used 627 film. Same size film as 120 but on a different spool. Somebody sells it respooled for those that like using the older cameras. Nikon’s new 4500 promises to be a nice camera. The Canon G2 is also. Both are priced between $720 & $800. The Olympus E20 is also excellent, albeit at a premium price. Nikon’s new 5700 will compete with Olympus. Wide angle lenses are a problem. More objectionable than the size and weight of good quality wide angle attachments, is the flare. You have to use some sort of shielding device (hand’s okay) when the sun is in an unfavorable position. 4 mp or above is okay for outstanding prints. Mike One of my Brownies shot 120, maybe the Brownie Starflash. But one of my Brownies shot some oddball film, I think. The Russians are making a knock-off of that Yashica, sells new for a couple hundred buckeroos. I’m playing around with a Nikon 885, a digital camera. It takes decent photos if you don’t need giant enlargements, but I still like a 35 mm SLR better.

That would be it.,..627…thanks…and I agree with your comments about digital cameras.

Response:

The lens is a Yashkor 1:3.5    80mm Was this lens considered respectable?

It was ok, you got a fair deal on the gravel=;) I’ll drop into my camera store for the cards to try the bracketing and advice on how to do so.

The Grey Scale is cheap, the price of the MacBeth might shock you=;) They might have one you can walkoutside and use and shoot the roll of film for them to develope.  Shoot E-6 chrome film and process normal so you can see the real uncompensated result unless you are used to reading negatives. Any time you get prints they’ve compensated for errors.  C-41 gives you about 2 1/2 stops latitude where you can print generally acceptable results, chromes you can tell 1/4 stop. http://hometown.aol.com/hlaviation/

Response:

The CCD’s will give the quality of print film.  The drawback is the amount of memory and time to write it required.  Some professional digital cameras are in the range, as the portrait photographer does not mind the wait.   The Lexar Media stripes the data, so you have multiple eeprom’s being written at one time, just more cost.  Plus the cost of energy to run the camera and write the Flash memory.  Some will use the 1" mini hard drives.  Is the reason that most portables are lower in definition. Bill

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Cool.. I have a great old Honeywell Spotmatic with a jammed shutter.  Haven’t used it in at least a year… I seem to have gone digital. Dan I’m looking forward to the day when digital cameras can produce the type of resolution available from silver film. It’s probably right around the corner. You’d need a minimum of five megapixel resolution for a crisp 8×10. It’s available, but expensive. There doesn’t seem to be anything digital and affordable that will accomodate a range of interchangeable lenses, either. Canon has a new model out that takes the same lenses as the standard range of Canon SLRs, but the camera is around $2000. The short lens issue is a big one, though. It’s almost impossible to take good interior photos on a boat with anything longer than a 28mm lens. A 15mm works even better, (providing the camera can be kept on plane with the horizon) and I’ve yet to see a digital camera with a "wide angle" setting adequate for the job. Even the new Canon, previously mentioned, takes a wide angle lens and "adds" some mm to it because of issues I won’t get into here. A 28 mm lens becomes a 35 mm, and so forth. They may be out there. Some of these digital cameras are thousands of bucks, and I can’t say I’ve ever seriously looked at one in that price range. The $300-500 variety are basically just glorified Brownies (and if you can recognize that reference you’re not exactly young anymore.) :-) My first camera was a Brownie that shot some weird size of roll film. With big flashbulbs, too.

Response:

Cool.. I have a great old Honeywell Spotmatic with a jammed shutter.  Haven’t used it in at least a year… I seem to have gone digital. Dan I’m looking forward to the day when digital cameras can produce the type of resolution available from silver film. It’s probably right around the corner.

Well, I mostly take snapshots.  The Spotmatic takes awsome pics for a 30 year old camera, but it’s bulky and delicate, and the manual focus/zoom makes it difficult to use for spur-of-the-moment shots.  The digicam (Olympus D-510z) works fine for 98% of my uses. Why I worry about quality is beyond me, really. Most of my published photos appear in black and white on newsprint. Doesn’t exactly call for high resolution.

I can’t STAND when newspapers/magazines take a digital or scanned picture, and blow up the zoom so much that the image gets pixelized.  Don’t publications hire photo editors anymore? They may be out there. Some of these digital cameras are thousands of bucks, and I can’t say I’ve ever seriously looked at one in that price range. The $300-500 variety are basically just glorified Brownies (and if you can recognize that reference you’re not exactly young anymore.) :-)

Hey, I recognize the reference, and I’m just around 30… but really, most point-n-shoot cameras, film or digital, are just glorified Brownies. — Beware of mathematicians and all those who make empty prophecies.  The danger already exists that the mathematicians have made covenant with the devil to darken the spirit and to confine man in the bonds of hell.                 — St. Augustine

Response:

The Russians are making a knock-off of that Yashica, sells new for a couple hundred buckeroos.

The box wasn’t what made that camera worth while, it was the optics available for it, personnally I prefered the Rodenstock on the Rollie, but the Zeiss on the Yashica is also first rate, especially the f2,8 80mm. TLR cameras in general are a dime a dozen, there’s only a few that are valueable, and the Yashica with the 2,8 is one of them. To be honest though, I’ve never checked out any Russian optics.  They had a hell of a laser program, so the technology is in the country, whether it made it into their photo industry is the question.. http://hometown.aol.com/hlaviation/

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You guys reminded me of an old Mad Magazine cartoon about taking pictures on the beach.  There were two cameramen.  One was Mr. Professional Photographer with cameras, light meters, carry bags, and tripods wearing one of those photojournalists vests with all the pockets stuffed with stuff.  The other photog was one Alfred E Neuman with his disposable Fuji camera hanging from a string around his goofy head.  When you flipped over the page, there were two pictures taken by the two photogs of a beautiful girl in a tiny bikini standing by a pier.  Of course, the pictures were identical……(c; Larry

Response:

Your Brownie probably used 627 film. Same size film as 120 but on a different spool. Somebody sells it respooled for those that like using the older cameras. Nikon’s new 4500 promises to be a nice camera. The Canon G2 is also. Both are priced between $720 & $800. The Olympus E20 is also excellent, albeit at a premium price. Nikon’s new 5700 will compete with Olympus. Wide angle lenses are a problem. More objectionable than the size and weight of good quality wide angle attachments, is the flare. You have to use some sort of shielding device (hand’s okay) when the sun is in an unfavorable position. 4 mp or above is okay for outstanding prints. Mike – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – One of my Brownies shot 120, maybe the Brownie Starflash. But one of my Brownies shot some oddball film, I think. The Russians are making a knock-off of that Yashica, sells new for a couple hundred buckeroos. I’m playing around with a Nikon 885, a digital camera. It takes decent photos if you don’t need giant enlargements, but I still like a 35 mm SLR better.

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The lens is a Yashkor 1:3.5    80mm Was this lens considered respectable? I’ll drop into my camera store for the cards to try the bracketing and advice on how to do so. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Oh my, if that had 2,8 Carl Zeiss lenses on it, it was worth more than a load of gravel. No, just run a bracket set on a grey card & a MacBeth color card so you know how to compensate for the exposure.  Rerun a bracket set every hundred rolls or year whichever comes first. http://hometown.aol.com/hlaviation/

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Wonder if that was ‘120 film’? About 15 years ago I traded one third of a tandem truckload of gravel for an old Yashica-D twin lens medium format camera that shoots 2" x 2" negatives on 120 film.

Oh my, if that had 2,8 Carl Zeiss lenses on it, it was worth more than a load of gravel. More awkward to use than my Minolta SRT 200 SLR, but the quality of print is better.

Much better. Speaking of the Minolta…my shutter speed was diagnosed as being off at slow speeds and on the fast speeds. Not sure if it’s worth the trouble to have it repaired.

No, just run a bracket set on a grey card & a MacBeth color card so you know how to compensate for the exposure.  Rerun a bracket set every hundred rolls or year whichever comes first. http://hometown.aol.com/hlaviation/

Response:

Wonder if that was ‘120 film’? About 15 years ago I traded one third of a tandem truckload of gravel for an old Yashica-D twin lens medium format camera that shoots 2" x 2" negatives on 120 film. More awkward to use than my Minolta SRT 200 SLR, but the quality of print is better. Speaking of the Minolta…my shutter speed was diagnosed as being off at slow speeds and on the fast speeds. Not sure if it’s worth the trouble to have it repaired. My first camera was a Brownie that shot some weird size of roll film. With big flashbulbs, too.

One of my Brownies shot 120, maybe the Brownie Starflash. But one of my Brownies shot some oddball film, I think. The Russians are making a knock-off of that Yashica, sells new for a couple hundred buckeroos. I’m playing around with a Nikon 885, a digital camera. It takes decent photos if you don’t need giant enlargements, but I still like a 35 mm SLR better.

Response:

Wonder if that was ‘120 film’? About 15 years ago I traded one third of a tandem truckload of gravel for an old Yashica-D twin lens medium format camera that shoots 2" x 2" negatives on 120 film. More awkward to use than my Minolta SRT 200 SLR, but the quality of print is better. Speaking of the Minolta…my shutter speed was diagnosed as being off at slow speeds and on the fast speeds. Not sure if it’s worth the trouble to have it repaired. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My first camera was a Brownie that shot some weird size of roll film. With big flashbulbs, too.

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Cool.. I have a great old Honeywell Spotmatic with a jammed shutter.  Haven’t used it in at least a year… I seem to have gone digital. Dan I’m looking forward to the day when digital cameras can produce the type of resolution available from silver film. It’s probably right around the corner.

You’d need a minimum of five megapixel resolution for a crisp 8×10. It’s available, but expensive. There doesn’t seem to be anything digital and affordable that will accomodate a range of interchangeable lenses, either.

Canon has a new model out that takes the same lenses as the standard range of Canon SLRs, but the camera is around $2000. The short lens issue is a big one, though. It’s almost impossible to take good interior photos on a boat with anything longer than a 28mm lens. A 15mm works even better, (providing the camera can be kept on plane with the horizon) and I’ve yet to see a digital camera with a "wide angle" setting adequate for the job.

Even the new Canon, previously mentioned, takes a wide angle lens and "adds" some mm to it because of issues I won’t get into here. A 28 mm lens becomes a 35 mm, and so forth. They may be out there. Some of these digital cameras are thousands of bucks, and I can’t say I’ve ever seriously looked at one in that price range. The $300-500 variety are basically just glorified Brownies (and if you can recognize that reference you’re not exactly young anymore.) :-)

My first camera was a Brownie that shot some weird size of roll film. With big flashbulbs, too.

Response:

There doesn’t seem to be anything digital and affordable that will accomodate a range of interchangeable lenses, either.

Depends on your definition of affordable.  There are digital plates available for 4×5 format and digital backs available for Hasselblad and other medium format cameras. It’s almost impossible to take good interior photos on a boat with anything longer than a 28mm lens.

I learned long ago that to do quality interior and architectural work requires a large format camera.  I used to do a lot of it with a 4×5 monorail camera with a 6×7 120 back on it.  The swings, tilts and shifts allow you to get the shots you want in smaller areas without the distortion.  You can get into a Calumet rail, a decent quality 90mm (135 mm on a 4×5 =50mm on 35)lens, a couple of sheet film holders and a roll film back for around a grand.  I’m not sure what the digital plates cost now. http://hometown.aol.com/hlaviation/

Response:

Most boaters have a camera or two aboard. I’ve discovered a particularly honest camera shop in the Seattle area. <SNIP I thought I’d pass the word along to any rec.boaters in the Puget Sound area: you’ll encounter remarkable honesty at Kenmore Camera. Wish they were a little closer to my house. (There were about six salespeople working there on Saturday, all were busy, and there was still a lineup. Easy to see why.)

  Thank you. I like rewarding the Good People since everyone seems to take great delight in punishing the Bad Ones.    It’s true that word gets around, though. There’s an auto mechanic here in Vanc (Silva Automotive) that’s the most honest and knowledgeable I’ve ever found. He doesn’t advertise at all, his shop is WAY out of the way, but he’s always packed with business…

Response:

I thought I’d pass the word along to any rec.boaters in the Puget Sound area: you’ll encounter remarkable honesty at Kenmore Camera. Wish they were a little closer to my house.

Cool.. I have a great old Honeywell Spotmatic with a jammed shutter.  Haven’t used it in at least a year… I seem to have gone digital. Dan — I shoot for the moon, but sometimes I hit London                 — Werner von Braun

Response:

Cool.. I have a great old Honeywell Spotmatic with a jammed shutter.  Haven’t used it in at least a year… I seem to have gone digital. Dan

I’m looking forward to the day when digital cameras can produce the type of resolution available from silver film. It’s probably right around the corner. There doesn’t seem to be anything digital and affordable that will accomodate a range of interchangeable lenses, either. Why I worry about quality is beyond me, really. Most of my published photos appear in black and white on newsprint. Doesn’t exactly call for high resolution. The short lens issue is a big one, though. It’s almost impossible to take good interior photos on a boat with anything longer than a 28mm lens. A 15mm works even better, (providing the camera can be kept on plane with the horizon) and I’ve yet to see a digital camera with a "wide angle" setting adequate for the job. They may be out there. Some of these digital cameras are thousands of bucks, and I can’t say I’ve ever seriously looked at one in that price range. The $300-500 variety are basically just glorified Brownies (and if you can recognize that reference you’re not exactly young anymore.) :-)

Response:

Glad to hear about Kenmore Camera, I have been trying to find a place I could trust to repair my old Rollie.  The last place I took it want big bucks just too look it over and tell me what was wrong.  When I told them I would not part with the lenses they lost all interest in "repairing" it. I’ll menton your post when I take the camera in. Best Mike N

Response:

Most boaters have a camera or two aboard. I’ve discovered a particularly honest camera shop in the Seattle area. My 35mm Contax SLR began behaving badly in the middle of a photo shoot yesterday. It seemed that nothing could be done to stop the film from automatically rewinding each time the shutter was triggered. Worse, this was the second time in the last few years I’d experienced this problem. Last time, a local camera shop "repaired" it, for about $150. The Contax was originally purchased, barely used, from Kenmore Camera. I thought I’d investigate the cost of upgrading to a newer model, or at least buying a cheap "back-up" body of some type that would accomodate my set of Zeiss lenses so I could keep working while the Contax languished in the shop, again. Kenmore Camera had a nice, used Contax with some whiz bang features. $600. After disclosing the current problem with my present Contax, I asked the salesperson whether they would allow something on trade. I detoured to the rest room while he showed my somewhat battered old veteran to his boss. After emerging from the rest room, I was relieved in more ways than one. "Your camera’s all fixed, sir!" said the salesperson. "What?!" "Yeah. There’s a little tiny spot on the bottom of the camera, and if you find something small enough to press in on that particular spot, it will reset the computer. That’s all you really needed all along. Here, I’ll show you exactly where that spot is. If this ever happens again, just take the end of a paper clip or something and you can reset this yourself. I’ll bet you had to change your batteries just before this happened, right?" "Right." " My boss said that once in a while an extremely low battery situation will trigger the situation you were experiencing." Wow. I was all ready to trade in my old camera and spend a few hundred bucks or so on the upgrade. They could have said, "Gee, we’re really sorry but since your camera isn’t working we’ll just have to take it in for parts and we’ll give you $25." Five minutes after I left the store the camera could have been up for sale, (button pushed), for at least a couple of hundred dollars. So instead of making a sale, they made a customer. Wise move. So wise, in fact, that I "rewarded" Kenmore Camera and celebrated my good fortune with the purchase of a new 19-35mm f/3.5-4.5 lens. They still made a deal, after all. I thought I’d pass the word along to any rec.boaters in the Puget Sound area: you’ll encounter remarkable honesty at Kenmore Camera. Wish they were a little closer to my house. (There were about six salespeople working there on Saturday, all were busy, and there was still a lineup. Easy to see why.)

Response:

Question:

Would like you input. I have an idea for a shutter speed tester. In my looking at various websites aand such, I have yest to some this type of device, let alone one for Joe Consumer. Right now I am just in the concept stages, and have yep to build a proof of concept prototype. With out going into too much detail, here are the "selling" features of it: Cheap (about $20, I hope) Rugged Accurate Adjustable (if it does come out of calibration) Selectable resolution (for slow/med/fast shutter speeds) 9 seconds – 1/10,000 Easy to use Runs on 2 AAA batteries (probable) Small Digital Readout Work with any camera/shutter Just for the record, I am not a company, just an amature photographer who thinks he has great idea, and wants your imput on it.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Would like you input. I have an idea for a shutter speed tester. In my looking at various websites aand such, I have yest to some this type of device, let alone one for Joe Consumer. Right now I am just in the concept stages, and have yep to build a proof of concept prototype. With out going into too much detail, here are the "selling" features of it: Cheap (about $20, I hope) Rugged Accurate Adjustable (if it does come out of calibration) Selectable resolution (for slow/med/fast shutter speeds) 9 seconds – 1/10,000 Easy to use Runs on 2 AAA batteries (probable) Small Digital Readout Work with any camera/shutter Just for the record, I am not a company, just an amature photographer who thinks he has great idea, and wants your imput on it.

Before you get too involved and not to rain on your parade, suggest you check out the Leitz site for their very simple, very accurate shutter tester used in a production environment. For the home enthusiast, the cost should be minimal (almost nothing). Regards, Marv

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Would like you input. I have an idea for a shutter speed tester. In my looking at various websites aand such, I have yest to some this type of device, let alone one for Joe Consumer. Right now I am just in the concept stages, and have yep to build a proof of concept prototype. With out going into too much detail, here are the "selling" features of it: Cheap (about $20, I hope) Rugged Accurate Adjustable (if it does come out of calibration) Selectable resolution (for slow/med/fast shutter speeds) 9 seconds – 1/10,000 Easy to use Runs on 2 AAA batteries (probable) Small Digital Readout Work with any camera/shutter Just for the record, I am not a company, just an amature photographer who thinks he has great idea, and wants your imput on it. Before you get too involved and not to rain on your parade, suggest you check out the Leitz site for their very simple, very accurate shutter tester used in a production environment. For the home enthusiast, the cost should be minimal (almost nothing). Regards, Marv

Got a URL? —  

Question:

i have a 50mm f/1.8 and a 28-105mm 3.5-5.6D great for the money. — PLURdiddy http://www.beef-a-roni.com

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Response:

Any of the shorter primes are all great 16mm f2.8 fish eye  Just  fun special effects. Expensive 20mm f/2.8D or the 24mm f/2.8D may be wide enough and eaiser to use well. Cheeper 35mm f/2 D  A good walking around snap shot lens 50mm f/1.4D  Alas, the f 1.8 although sharper and only 1/2 stop slower, is non D and will not support 3D matrix metering. 85mm f/1.8D Portraits and getting in a little tighter without "getting in their face" 105mm f 2/8D macro  Extream close up and portraits Expensive Travel Zooms 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5D  This one is a good one to have if you are only going to have one lens.  Will need flash a lot especially indoors. 70-300mm f/4-5.6 D   Does an ok job stopped down a little if you don’t go beyond about 200mm. SLOW Zooms  Great fast enough lens but big and heavy and expensive. 17-35mm f2.8 AFS 28-70mm f/2.8AFS 80-200mm f/2.8D or the AFS version

– Those who value safety say freedom is worthless if you’re not alive to enjoy it. Those who value freedom say life is worthless if you’re not free to enjoy it.

Response:

Try Nikkor 35 – 70 F2.8 AFD. This is a great lens with very good optics, though with limited range. Vincent

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Good point!  The Nikkor 20-35 f/2.8D (discontinued, $600-850 used) is a great wideangle zoom and a great match for the N80.  On the longer end, the Nikkor 80-200 f/2.8 (several versions available, $600-1500) is simply stellar. :-D Seriously, though, if you have to have a zoom, the only consumer-grade zoom I’ve ever shot that I’ve had any success with is the Nikkor 28-105 f/3.5-4.5D.  High marks.  It also has a decent "macro" (~1:2) capability. ~dudefish~ How about zooms? naw man, 50/1.8!!!  still very fast, very very sharp (sharper than the 1.4 perhaps), and much cheaper.  yeah i know, the 1.4 is faster, cheaper, sharper at f/1.4. For your first lens I would recommend a 50 mm 1.4 AFD Nikkor. For available light you will always find it handy. If you want something a little longer, then the 85 mm 1.8 AFD Nikkor would be a great lens also! Doug from Tumwater

Response:

Good point!  The Nikkor 20-35 f/2.8D (discontinued, $600-850 used) is a great wideangle zoom and a great match for the N80.  On the longer end, the Nikkor 80-200 f/2.8 (several versions available, $600-1500) is simply stellar. :-D Seriously, though, if you have to have a zoom, the only consumer-grade zoom I’ve ever shot that I’ve had any success with is the Nikkor 28-105 f/3.5-4.5D.  High marks.  It also has a decent "macro" (~1:2) capability. ~dudefish~

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – How about zooms? naw man, 50/1.8!!!  still very fast, very very sharp (sharper than the 1.4 perhaps), and much cheaper.  yeah i know, the 1.4 is faster, cheaper, sharper at f/1.4. For your first lens I would recommend a 50 mm 1.4 AFD Nikkor. For available light you will always find it handy. If you want something a little longer, then the 85 mm 1.8 AFD Nikkor would be a great lens also! Doug from Tumwater

Response:

For primes, I use the Nikkor AFD 20mm/f2.8, 35mm/f2.0, 85mm/f1.8, with my N80. For a handholdable range, this is hard to beat. Also the lenses are light enough not to stress the body.

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Response:

How about zooms?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – naw man, 50/1.8!!!  still very fast, very very sharp (sharper than the 1.4 perhaps), and much cheaper.  yeah i know, the 1.4 is faster, cheaper, sharper at f/1.4. For your first lens I would recommend a 50 mm 1.4 AFD Nikkor. For available light you will always find it handy. If you want something a little longer, then the 85 mm 1.8 AFD Nikkor would be a great lens also! Doug from Tumwater

Response:

naw man, 50/1.8!!!  still very fast, very very sharp (sharper than the 1.4 perhaps), and much cheaper.  yeah i know, the 1.4 is faster, cheaper, sharper at f/1.4.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – For your first lens I would recommend a 50 mm 1.4 AFD Nikkor. For available light you will always find it handy. If you want something a little longer, then the 85 mm 1.8 AFD Nikkor would be a great lens also! Doug from Tumwater

Response:

Response:

For your first lens I would recommend a 50 mm 1.4 AFD Nikkor. For available light you will always find it handy. If you want something a little longer, then the 85 mm 1.8 AFD Nikkor would be a great lens also! Doug from Tumwater

Response:

Question:

I’ve come across the Wimberley Combo 2 (check it out at http://www.tripodhead.com/combo2.html), but there don’t seem to be any reviews. The Wimberely bracket seems very flexible (no pun intended) and comes ready to attach to my EOS-3 Arca quick-release plate, but I hesitate to buy something w/o asking for feedback from users first.

I have several Wimberley products and they are extremely well-made and well-designed.  If you have questions you can call and speak directly to Clay Wimberley, who designs most of it (it’s a small father-son outfit).  I highly recommend their products (I have the big Wimberley pivot tripod head for my long lens, a flash extension bracket that mounts to this Wimberley head, maybe 6 or 7 mounting plates for A-S jaws, and a couple of the Plamps, probably getting the Sidekick head soon). Wimberley aside, I would also welcome recommendations for other flash brackets that might meet my macro needs.

Kirk and RRS are two companies that also make good products but make sure you can mount them to your plate since they have different mounting systems.  (The Wimberley plates are drilled out to support both RRS and Kirk, just another nice touch in their well-thought out system).  If they’re a lot cheaper than Wimberley I’d consider them but at the same price I’d get the Wim. I think George Lepp still makes a bracket that holds two flashes, nice for a multiflash set-up but probably hard to carry around, especially if you get a second 550ex. Bill

Response:

Hi Derek, For single flash macro work, the Wimberley stuff would be good, I think. Now, I haven’t personally used that particular macro bracket, but I’m quite familiar with some of their other stuff. Specifically, I use WImberley’s Sidekick, along with their modular flash bracket which nicely positions 550EX above larger telephotos. For macro I’ll often use the Lepp/Stroboframe bracket (MT-24EX flash, EOS 3 with 100/2.8, 180/3.5, or 70-200/2.8 & various ext. tubes, etc). With 550EX however, I wouldn’t recommend this bracket. It’s just too light for that flash and is actually designed to accomodate a pair of small flashes. I’ve long used this same bracket with other camera systems and small, non-TTL flashes, largest of which is a couple Vivitar 2500s. Before I got the Lepp/Stroboframe, I had made several different similar brackets which were all fine, but heavier, larger and slower to use. You probably are aware, with the 550EX you have the tilt-down feature, which works pretty well for a lot of close up work, especially with longer lenses. Just slip the flash in the on-camera hot shoe, tilt down &  manually set the flash zoom to 50,  35mm or even wider coverage. The only thing to watch out for is that subject isn’t partially obscured or shaded from the flash by the lens hood. Sometimes I’ll just use off-camera shoe cord 2 to hand hold 550EX off to one side or above the subject. Granted, it’s a bit of a juggling act, much easier when the camera is on a tripod, or if I can con someone into holding and pointing the flash while I shoot. Incidentally, with the 550EX, especially for closer work, I frequently use two or three layers of white gauze, held in place over the flash head with a rubber band. This diffuses and tones down the flash… otherwise it’s pretty strong for close up work! Hope this helps. Gotta say my 550s and other EX items have sure made my life easier! Like you, I’m not a big fan of ring lights, so I used the 550EXs until the MT-24EX came out late last year. Cheers! Alan Myers

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – For single flash macro work, the Wimberley stuff would be good, I think. Now, I haven’t personally used that particular macro bracket, but I’m quite familiar with some of their other stuff. Specifically, I use WImberley’s Sidekick, along with their modular flash bracket which nicely positions 550EX above larger telephotos. For macro I’ll often use the Lepp/Stroboframe bracket (MT-24EX flash, EOS 3 with 100/2.8, 180/3.5, or 70-200/ 2.8 & various ext. tubes, etc). With 550EX however, I wouldn’t recommend this bracket. It’s just too light for that flash and is actually designed to accomodate a pair of small flashes.

I’ve been drooling over the MT-24EX since it came out, but not quite $700 worth of drool. I have a few lenses to buy first. In the meantime, my 550EX will just have to do. :) I actually looked at the Lepp bracket (online–it’s not stocked by any of my local haunts) and I thought it was too flimsy for one (let alone two!) 550EXs. I’m glad you confirmed this for me. I’ve long used this same bracket with other camera systems and small, non-TTL flashes, largest of which is a couple Vivitar 2500s. Before I got the Lepp/Stroboframe, I had made several different similar brackets which were all fine, but heavier, larger and slower to use.

I admire people who make their own brackets, and I laugh at those who suggest that I should too. They’ve obviously never seen me try to use tools. :) You probably are aware, with the 550EX you have the tilt- down feature, which works pretty well for a lot of close up work, especially with longer lenses. Just slip the flash in the on-camera hot shoe, tilt down &  manually set the flash zoom to 50, 35mm or even wider coverage. The only thing to watch out for is that subject isn’t partially ob- scured or shaded from the flash by the lens hood.

I haven’t shot very many close-ups with the 550EX tilted down because that’s exactly what I’m afraid of: the lens (or hood) will block the flash. I guess it’s easy enough to fire the modeling flash to check, but it’s not always easy to do with moving subjects. Sometimes I’ll just use off-camera shoe cord 2 to hand hold 550EX off to one side or above the subject. Granted, it’s a bit of a juggling act, much easier when the camera is on a tripod, or if I can con someone into holding and pointing the flash while I shoot.

I actually ordered a "cord 2" from B&H this morning because I had the same thought. When I’m on a tripod, I’m sure I can hold the flash manually to some extent. I’m glad to hear that it’s possible. Incidentally, with the 550EX, especially for closer work, I frequently use two or three layers of white gauze, held in place over the flash head with a rubber band. This diffuses and tones down the flash… otherwise it’s pretty strong for close up work!

Funny you should mention that, because with my "cord 2" I also ordered a Sto-fen Omnibounce diffuser for my 550EX. I figured that the 550EX would need to be toned down a bit. Hope this helps. Gotta say my 550s and other EX items have sure made my life easier! Like you, I’m not a big fan of ring lights, so I used the 550EXs until the MT-24EX came out late last year.

If you ever get tired of that MT-24EX, I’m sure I can give it a good home. ;) Cheers! Alan Myers

Many thanks. P.S. Thanks for bringing to my attention that Wimberely has a pretty generous try-before-you-buy policy. I may just have to evaluate their gear for myself.

Response:

Last week while treking  I came about a young couple doing macro work in the woods.  He had a Nikon rig and a flash unit with the extended cable and a foldout car window protector. No tripod, nothing else. No two hundred dollar bracket, he works for the University and I have seen his work. Since then, I came up with the Jacobs field pack for cheap macro work. I will post it on my site as soon as two other parts are finished. One of the things is a shoe mount on a piece of 3/8 inch aluminum rod about four feet long.  Two two footers that screw together.  You shove it in the ground (one tip is pointed) and it holds the flash and is adjustable. The other part is a shade, silver that is 24 inches also with pockets for two more of the aluminum rods. Rolls up All fits in a PVC pipe that will strap to my pack. About a pound the whole rig. Other ideas at www.aljacobs.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello all, I’m looking for a flash bracket suitable for macro photography. I usually shoot macro with my EOS-3 body, 100/2.8 USM macro, and sometimes a combination of 12, 20, and 36mm extension tubes. I own a 550EX flash, so I would prefer to get a flash bracket and use my 550EX instead of lugging around a ring flash. I’ve come across the Wimberley Combo 2 (check it out at http://www.tripodhead.com/combo2.html), but there don’t seem to be any reviews. The Wimberely bracket seems very flexible (no pun intended) and comes ready to attach to my EOS-3 Arca quick-release plate, but I hesitate to buy something w/o asking for feedback from users first. Wimberley aside, I would also welcome recommendations for other flash brackets that might meet my macro needs. Thanks. Derek

Response:

I use a Kirk FB-8 and a FB-9 with an EOS3 + 550EX (somtimes 2 550EX’s) and can highly recommend both brackets.  For your 100/2.8, you would use the FB-8 which attaches to the camera with a standard 1/4.  For larger lenses with a rotating collar (such as the 180L), the FB-9 fits on its collar giving better balance. http://www.kirkphoto.com/brackets.html – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Hello all, I’m looking for a flash bracket suitable for macro photography. I usually shoot macro with my EOS-3 body, 100/2.8 USM macro, and sometimes a combination of 12, 20, and 36mm extension tubes. I own a 550EX flash, so I would prefer to get a flash bracket and use my 550EX instead of lugging around a ring flash. I’ve come across the Wimberley Combo 2 (check it out at http://www.tripodhead.com/combo2.html), but there don’t seem to be any reviews. The Wimberely bracket seems very flexible (no pun intended) and comes ready to attach to my EOS-3 Arca quick-release plate, but I hesitate to buy something w/o asking for feedback from users first. Wimberley aside, I would also welcome recommendations for other flash brackets that might meet my macro needs. Thanks. Derek

Response:

Hello all, I’m looking for a flash bracket suitable for macro photography. I usually shoot macro with my EOS-3 body, 100/2.8 USM macro, and sometimes a combination of 12, 20, and 36mm extension tubes. I own a 550EX flash, so I would prefer to get a flash bracket and use my 550EX instead of lugging around a ring flash. I’ve come across the Wimberley Combo 2 (check it out at http://www.tripodhead.com/combo2.html), but there don’t seem to be any reviews. The Wimberely bracket seems very flexible (no pun intended) and comes ready to attach to my EOS-3 Arca quick-release plate, but I hesitate to buy something w/o asking for feedback from users first. Wimberley aside, I would also welcome recommendations for other flash brackets that might meet my macro needs. Thanks. Derek

Response:

One of John Shaw’s books on macrophotography gives directions for making an inexpensive and versative flash bracket. On a more expensive note, Really Right Stuff makes a more elaborate but well finished bracket.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello all, I’m looking for a flash bracket suitable for macro photography. I usually shoot macro with my EOS-3 body, 100/2.8 USM macro, and sometimes a combination of 12, 20, and 36mm extension tubes. I own a 550EX flash, so I would prefer to get a flash bracket and use my 550EX instead of lugging around a ring flash. I’ve come across the Wimberley Combo 2 (check it out at http://www.tripodhead.com/combo2.html), but there don’t seem to be any reviews. The Wimberely bracket seems very flexible (no pun intended) and comes ready to attach to my EOS-3 Arca quick-release plate, but I hesitate to buy something w/o asking for feedback from users first. Wimberley aside, I would also welcome recommendations for other flash brackets that might meet my macro needs. Thanks. Derek

Response:

It looks scary… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello all, I’m looking for a flash bracket suitable for macro photography. I usually shoot macro with my EOS-3 body, 100/2.8 USM macro, and sometimes a combination of 12, 20, and 36mm extension tubes. I own a 550EX flash, so I would prefer to get a flash bracket and use my 550EX instead of lugging around a ring flash. I’ve come across the Wimberley Combo 2 (check it out at http://www.tripodhead.com/combo2.html), but there don’t seem to be any reviews. The Wimberely bracket seems very flexible (no pun intended) and comes ready to attach to my EOS-3 Arca quick-release plate, but I hesitate to buy something w/o asking for feedback from users first. Wimberley aside, I would also welcome recommendations for other flash brackets that might meet my macro needs. Thanks. Derek

Response:

Question:

I just purchased the Sigma 24-70/2.8 new from B&H.  There’s a marked stiffness when zooming out as you hit around 35mm to 24mm.  Has anyone else noticed this?

Response:

I just purchased the Sigma 24-70/2.8 new from B&H.  There’s a marked stiffness when zooming out as you hit around 35mm to 24mm.  Has anyone else noticed this?

If memory serves, I also noticed the same stffness thing in the store (B&H) when I was looking at the lens. I don’t own the lens so I can’t tell you if this is normal/indicative of other 24-70mm f/2.8 Sigma lenses but perhaps you might want to email/call their repair department and see if they can fix this problem. Even if this is a standard problem/"feature" of the lens, perhaps it is fixable/adjustable. Lewis I’ve set (anti-spam) controls to allow in only people on my list. If you want to be on my list contact me through the newsgroup. I regret the inconvenience. Thanks. Check out my photos at "LEWISVISION": http://members.aol.com/Lewisvisn/home.htm

Response:

Question:

You’re right, the lens is truly great. All the authorities give that 1760000 as the start of production but mine is a chrome Canada lens numbered 1730xxx. Does anyone know what year that would be or why there’s such a large gap between mine and the "official" start of production?

Gerry, I’d guess your Summilux is a very early sample from 1961. It’s not unknown for early production Leitz lenses to have lower serial numbers than those from the first official serial number block. -Dave-

Response:

A wonderful lens for sure. My own is from the late 1960s. The lens was in production from 1961 to 1995…serial numbers start at around 1760000.

You’re right, the lens is truly great. All the authorities give that 1760000 as the start of production but mine is a chrome Canada lens numbered 1730xxx. Does anyone know what year that would be or why there’s such a large gap between mine and the "official" start of production? Thanks, Gerry

Response:

Net wisdom, please.  I’ve been going through some negatives I shot a long time ago when I got the first Leitz Summilux 35mm F1.4 lens (1970 or so). I loved that lens’ wide-open qualities and want one again. I will be shopping for one ‘long distance’, so the best way to distinguish it would be by serial number. Can someone tell me what numbers to look for? Thank you kindly!

Response:

Net wisdom, please.  I’ve been going through some negatives I shot a long time ago when I got the first Leitz Summilux 35mm F1.4 lens (1970 or so). I loved that lens’ wide-open qualities and want one again. I will be shopping for one ‘long distance’, so the best way to distinguish it would be by serial number. Can someone tell me what numbers to look for? Thank you kindly!

A wonderful lens for sure. My own is from the late 1960s. The lens was in production from 1961 to 1995…serial numbers start at around 1760000. Leica no longer reports serial number blocks used during a given year so I don’t know the serial number range of the last lenses made. Some Leitz lens gurus claim the optical formula was slightly tweaked at around #2166701 (c. 1966), others say not. The replacement lens is typically identified as an ASPH (aspherical) and even used commands a higher price. The older version is usually identified as a pre-ASPH. -Dave-

Response:

Question:

Hi, Considering the price of the eos 1N or RS, who can give me advice on upgrading from EOS ELAN II E. To do or not to do. 1N or RS? Thanks

Response:

Why not EOS 3? 95% of the functionality at half the price.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, Considering the price of the eos 1N or RS, who can give me advice on upgrading from EOS ELAN II E. To do or not to do. 1N or RS? Thanks

Response:

1. EOS 3 not compatible with my TOKINA 28-70 2.6-2.8, already ELAN II does not accept 2.6 aperture. 2. No 100% Viewfinder 3. No PC terminal and/or data imprint between frames 4. Test in FM (german) february 2002 quotes EOS ELAN 7 much better than EOS 3. ( Actually, I dont’t trust too much those tests, even magazines have to live so, are they really independant? but that’s another issue.) 5. 45 point autofocus: perhaps too much? Much discussed and at the end a very subjective and personal issue. 6. Comapred to RS, very noisy. Do you own an EOS 3? THX for your answer Arm – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text —— Original Message —– Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2002 10:21 AM Why not EOS 3? 95% of the functionality at half the price. Hi, Considering the price of the eos 1N or RS, who can give me advice on upgrading from EOS ELAN II E. To do or not to do. 1N or RS? Thanks Why not EOS 3? 95% of the functionality at half the price. Hi, Considering the price of the eos 1N or RS, who can give me advice on upgrading from EOS ELAN II E. To do or not to do. 1N or RS? Thanks

Response:

The Elan is accepting the aperture – but it doesn’t have the character set to tell you it does. The aperture is stepless, but the readout is not.   I would take the 1n were I choosing. The pellical mirror loses light to the film and to teh eye-piece. Unless you have a regular job where this is important it is of little real help..   As an owner of an original Elan, I can tell you it is a sweet camera and still my personal favourite. However, no Elan is of the high quality of an EOS 3. The magazine article was probably written by someone with an ax to grind. If you operate in rough weather or extreeme climate, you should get an EOS 3 and give the magazne the raspberry – along with the one finger salute. — http://home.nc.rr.com/tspadaro/ The Camera-ist’s Manifesto a Radical approach to photography. A few pictures are available at http://www.homeusers.prestel.co.uk/magor/tony

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 1. EOS 3 not compatible with my TOKINA 28-70 2.6-2.8, already ELAN II does not accept 2.6 aperture. 2. No 100% Viewfinder 3. No PC terminal and/or data imprint between frames 4. Test in FM (german) february 2002 quotes EOS ELAN 7 much better than EOS 3. ( Actually, I dont’t trust too much those tests, even magazines have to live so, are they really independant? but that’s another issue.) 5. 45 point autofocus: perhaps too much? Much discussed and at the end a very subjective and personal issue. 6. Comapred to RS, very noisy. Do you own an EOS 3? THX for your answer Arm —– Original Message —– Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2002 10:21 AM Why not EOS 3? 95% of the functionality at half the price. Hi, Considering the price of the eos 1N or RS, who can give me advice on upgrading from EOS ELAN II E. To do or not to do. 1N or RS? Thanks Why not EOS 3? 95% of the functionality at half the price. Hi, Considering the price of the eos 1N or RS, who can give me advice on upgrading from EOS ELAN II E. To do or not to do. 1N or RS? Thanks

Response:

2. No 100% Viewfinder

I think you’re mistaken on that point, but I’m not completely sure. 4. Test in FM (german) february 2002 quotes EOS ELAN 7 much better than

EOS I would several question that statement. Do you own an EOS 3?

Sadly not … but for my use, I’d pick it over the 1N/RS any day and spend the difference on lenses. Ian – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – THX for your answer Arm —– Original Message —– Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2002 10:21 AM Why not EOS 3? 95% of the functionality at half the price. Hi, Considering the price of the eos 1N or RS, who can give me advice on upgrading from EOS ELAN II E. To do or not to do. 1N or RS? Thanks Why not EOS 3? 95% of the functionality at half the price. Hi, Considering the price of the eos 1N or RS, who can give me advice on upgrading from EOS ELAN II E. To do or not to do. 1N or RS? Thanks

Response:

Hi, Considering the price of the eos 1N or RS, who can give me advice on upgrading from EOS ELAN II E. To do or not to do. 1N or RS?

Choice is used 1N or new (or used) 3. RS is specialized for high speed motor drive at expense of light loss and vulnerable mirror.  One grease print on mirror, camera is f***ed. Like Canon Pellix and EOS RT before. — Best wishes, ERIKA

Response:

Armand, A few points: Unless you are desperately in need of some feature missing on the Elan IIe, I doubt any film camera would take better pictures. However, if you are purchasing this as a "last" film camera before digital is "good enough" for you (by whatever definition *you* choose to use), then I would go with the EOS 3. Other than the 100% viewfinder, I’m not sure there is a feature that the 1n has that the 3 does not, and the 3 is a current model. Then again, there is always the "fabulous" EOS 1v…  - Woody –

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, Considering the price of the eos 1N or RS, who can give me advice on upgrading from EOS ELAN II E. To do or not to do. 1N or RS? Thanks

Response:

Hey, The day they will discontinue films I won’t ever take a picture again! I’m really no friend of digital cameras. Never will forget what happened to SUPER 8! thx for your answers Arm

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Armand, A few points: Unless you are desperately in need of some feature missing on the Elan IIe, I doubt any film camera would take better pictures. However, if you are purchasing this as a "last" film camera before digital is "good enough" for you (by whatever definition *you* choose to use), then I would go with the EOS 3. Other than the 100% viewfinder, I’m not sure there is a feature that the 1n has that the 3 does not, and the 3 is a current model. Then again, there is always the "fabulous" EOS 1v…  - Woody – Hi, Considering the price of the eos 1N or RS, who can give me advice on upgrading from EOS ELAN II E. To do or not to do. 1N or RS? Thanks

Response:

Hi, Considering the price of the eos 1N or RS, who can give me advice on upgrading from EOS ELAN II E. To do or not to do. 1N or RS?

If you need 10fps and a non moving mirror then you need the RS, if you don

Question:

Now here’s a lens I’ve never heard of. I saw it in the used eq. case at the camera store. It was for Pentax screw mount. It is quite a bit longer than today’s 400mm f5.6 lenses and the front section moves forward and back when focussing. I know Vivitar had some impressive lenses back in the seventies. I wonder if anyone has more information on this optic. They’re only asking $100 for and  they’ll probably take $80. The lens looks clean. My next concern is stop down metering. Since I use a manual K mount body, I’m going to have to get an adapter. Do these adapters keep the lens at the proper distance from the film plane (are focus points shifted?). I also assume there will be no full aperture viewing and now metering link. How do I stop down meter? What I mean is, the aperture setting lever on the camera will not be engaged. Is there a conversion I need? Thanks for any help. John

Response:

see http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/third/index.html and third/cult.html see http://search-completed.ebay.com/search/search.dll?MfcISAPICommand=Ge… ebay prices ranged from $80 to $285 (OM mount!).. Today’s APO telephotos are more compact and lighter, but also more $$, but better optically; these 400mm f/5.6 were relatively fast lenses in their day (70s) and decent optically, but the APOs of today will be better I think. I have one I use in an interchangeable mount (T4 or TX) with other cameras, but prefer my 400mm f/5.6 APO from Sigma (AF nikkor mount) as it is lots lighter and smaller. But the price is more than double so… ;-) hth bobm — * Robert Monaghan POB752182 Southern Methodist University, Dallas Tx 75275  * * Third Party 35mm Lenses: http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/third/index.html  * * Medium Format Cameras: http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/mf/index.html       *

Response:

I don’t know anything of the quality of this lens. However, it will work on your K-maount in stopdown mode and it will focus to infinity.  It will not couple to your meter.  You just put it in manual mode and turn the aperture ring as necessary to achieve the proper exposure.  It’s a poor man’s depth of field preview. At $80 -$100 it should be worth it.  Many of the 400mm teles are f1:6.3 pre-set lenses so you pick up a little speed here. Dennis – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Now here’s a lens I’ve never heard of. I saw it in the used eq. case at the camera store. It was for Pentax screw mount. It is quite a bit longer than today’s 400mm f5.6 lenses and the front section moves forward and back when focussing. I know Vivitar had some impressive lenses back in the seventies. I wonder if anyone has more information on this optic. They’re only asking $100 for and  they’ll probably take $80. The lens looks clean. My next concern is stop down metering. Since I use a manual K mount body, I’m going to have to get an adapter. Do these adapters keep the lens at the proper distance from the film plane (are focus points shifted?). I also assume there will be no full aperture viewing and now metering link. How do I stop down meter? What I mean is, the aperture setting lever on the camera will not be engaged. Is there a conversion I need? Thanks for any help. John

Response:

see http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/third/index.html and third/cult.html see http://search-completed.ebay.com/search/search.dll?MfcISAPICommand=Ge… ebay prices ranged from $80 to $285 (OM mount!).. Today’s APO telephotos are more compact and lighter, but also more $$, but better optically; these 400mm f/5.6 were relatively fast lenses in their day (70s) and decent optically, but the APOs of today will be better I think. I have one I use in an interchangeable mount (T4 or TX) with other cameras, but prefer my 400mm f/5.6 APO from Sigma (AF nikkor mount) as it is lots lighter and smaller. But the price is more than double so… ;-) hth bobm — * Robert Monaghan POB752182 Southern Methodist University, Dallas Tx 75275  * * Third Party 35mm Lenses: http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/third/index.html  * * Medium Format Cameras: http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/mf/index.html       * X-No-Archive: yes Newsgroups: microsoft.test,alt.flame.niggers,rec.photo.equipment.35mm NNTP-Posting-Host: commflt.fastlanetrans.com 64.3.87.88 Lines: 1         Path: news.uni-stuttgart.de!dns.phoenix-ag.de!news.csl-gmbh.net!skynet.be!skynet. be!freenix!feed.ac-versailles.fr!out.nntp.be!propagator-SanJose!in.nntp.be! news-in-sanjose!sjc-feed.news.verio.net!sea-feed.news.verio.net!news.verio. net!msrnewsc1!cppssbbsa01.microsoft.com!tkmsftngp01!tkmsftngp02!u&n&a&c&anc eller Xref: news.uni-stuttgart.de control:40733474 This message was cancelled from within The Unacanceller’s glorious new software, Lotus 1-2-3 For Rogue Cancellers.

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