Photography 35mm

Question:

Hello, I would like to ask the following question – in your opinion, which SLR feature is more important: high X-sync speed (1/125 s. or 1/250 s.) or TTL flash control? I know, that it’s like comparing apples and oranges, but nevertheless – if you had to choose between two cameras for flash photography, which one would you prefer? One with slow X-sync speed, say 1/30 s. or 1/60 s., but having the TTL flash option, or another, without the TTL flash, but with very fast , say 1/250 s., X-sync speed? My personal opinion is that high X-sync. speed should be more important, but I’d like to hear from you. Thanks!                                     Andrejs.

Response:

in your opinion, which SLR feature is more important: high X-sync speed (1/125 s. or 1/250 s.) or TTL flash control?

Both are important. It really depends upon the type of shooting you intend to do.  If you’re shooting a lot of  candid portrait shots, then TTL.  If you shoot posed shots, indoor/outdoor, then the sync speed. My 35mm SLR has a 1/250 sync and TTL flash. My 6×6 TLR has leaf shutter for a 1/500 sync, but no TTL (and no meter). Joel

Response:

I would like to ask the following question – in your opinion, which SLR feature is more important: high X-sync speed (1/125 s. or 1/250 s.) or TTL flash control? I know, that it’s like comparing apples and oranges, but nevertheless – if you had to choose between two cameras for flash photography, which one would you prefer? One with slow X-sync speed, say 1/30 s. or 1/60 s., but having the TTL flash option, or another, without the TTL flash, but with very fast , say 1/250 s., X-sync speed?

If I HAD to choose I’d go for the 1/250 synch. It’s really almost essential  – but why choose? There’s plenty of cameras that offer both. I REALLY like TTL flash. It allows you to consitently and accurately use the LEAST amount of flash possible. This is great for fill-flash situations and times you don’t want your flash photos to look like flash photos.

Response:

Question:

I believe that Chinon started using the K mount for their later bodies (maybe from the ??4 – whatever it’s called).

The First Chinon K-mount was the CE-4 Memotron, introduced in 1979. Its predecessors, the M-1, CM, CX, CX2, LC-S, CE Memotron, CE2 Memotron, and CE3 Memotron were all 42mm thread mounts. Some of the screw-mount bodies also appeared under other names including GAF, Argus, Sears, and even Alpa! (Reference – The Register Of 35mm SLR Cameras, 2nd edition,by Rudolph Lea.) Regards, Ed M.

Response:

um.csclub.uwaterloo.ca writes I have the similar problem with the first gentleman but the contrary way. I have a Chinon CE-3 which doesn

Question:

Is an M6 easier to focus than a manual focus SLR?  Can accurate focus be achieved more quickly? Michael H "My psychiatrist sent me for an MRI because she thinks I have a magnetic personality."  

Response:

That depends upon what focal length lens you’re using, what the ambient light levels are and what your focusing distance is. Rangefinders are generally best at focusing short focal length lenses and operate well in dimly lit situations. SLRs are easiest to focus with longer focal length lenses and in good light. SLR focusing accuracy increases as you get closer due to reduction in DoF (you can discern out of focus more easily) where RF accuracy decreases at close range (parallax errors increase, DoF decreases). Godfrey – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Is an M6 easier to focus than a manual focus SLR?  Can accurate focus be achieved more quickly?

Response:

No.  It’s about the same.  Something like a split image finder is pretty comparable to Leica rangefinder. — Fred Maplewood Photography – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Is an M6 easier to focus than a manual focus SLR?  Can accurate focus be achieved more quickly? Michael H "My psychiatrist sent me for an MRI because she thinks I have a magnetic personality."

Response:

In fact I think the SLR’s split image focusing screen uses the same principles as the rangefinder.  Just the SLR’s split image cannot fall out of sync.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – No.  It’s about the same.  Something like a split image finder is pretty comparable to Leica rangefinder. — Fred Maplewood Photography Is an M6 easier to focus than a manual focus SLR?  Can accurate focus be achieved more quickly? Michael H "My psychiatrist sent me for an MRI because she thinks I have a magnetic personality."

Response:

The rangefinder patch of M6 can flare out at times under strongly directional lighting.  The split-image centre of an SLR focusing screen will black out under relatively dark situations, especially with a lens slower than about f/4.  Under such circumstances the rangfinder is much easier to focus. You can use the whole SLR screen for focusing most of the time, while with the rangefinder, you can only use the centre patch. Andrew – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – No.  It’s about the same.  Something like a split image finder is pretty comparable to Leica rangefinder.

Response:

In fact I think the SLR’s split image focusing screen uses the same principles as the rangefinder.  Just the SLR’s split image cannot fall out of sync.

Yes it can.  If your camera has interchangeable screens, it is quite possible for the focusing screen to be out of alignment. — Tony Polson, North Yorkshire, UK

Response:

Is an M6 easier to focus than a manual focus SLR?  Can accurate focus be achieved more quickly?

In my personal experience, the Leica RF (or any other RF that I’ve used) is more difficult to focus than an SLR, specifically with moving subjects, especially when highly selective focusing is required – say with a wide aperture and a lens longer than 35mm. It really depends upon how critical you are. That said, I know a couple of professionals who use the Leica M with such great facility that I’m humbled. But it comes with practice, and each of them have been using the M (and other cameras) daily for over thirty years. Practice, practice. I just love the RF for low-light work. It can’t be beat. My favorite: the M2 or M4 with a 35mm F1.4. Awesome!

Response:

Is an M6 easier to focus than a manual focus SLR?  Can accurate focus be achieved more quickly?

Easier? It’s hard to say. There is a definite learning curve. More accurately? With wide angles and "normal" (i.e. 50mm) lenses the rangefinder is without a doubt more accurate than the SLR. With telephotos — Leica tops out at 135mm — the SLR wins. Close focusing, as in macro? Forget it. Where the Leica M (or any quality manual rangefinder) really excells is low-light and wide angles to normal lenses. With practice you can focus the 75mm and 90mm lenses fine in low light (narrow depth of field) but it doesn’t come instantly. The 135mm is just a weird experience on the Leica — especially if you use the Elmarit with the "eyes."  

Response:

No.  It’s about the same.  Something like a split image finder is pretty comparable to Leica rangefinder.

Comparable in theory but I believe the rangefinder is more accurate due to the longer baselength of the rangefinder windows — or something like that . . .

Response:

And the Leica rangefinder isn’t just split image.  It’s also a coincident rangefinder where two images are merged. — Bud Cook

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – No.  It’s about the same.  Something like a split image finder is pretty comparable to Leica rangefinder. Comparable in theory but I believe the rangefinder is more accurate due to the longer baselength of the rangefinder windows — or something like that . . .

Response:

<<Is an M6 easier to focus than a manual focus SLR?  Can accurate focus be achieved more quickly? Depends on the SLR and lens, and the conditions.    An SLR with lots of light loss in the viewing system and a slow lens can be very hard to focus.   On the other hand, a pro SLR with high eye-relief and a fast lens is very easy.    The nice thing about the Leica is that the viewfinder always looks the same, and doesn’t have mirrors and prisms to reduce the light.   The  focus accuracy depends a lot on which model you have (viewfinder magnfication) and which lens.  (focal length.)   I find the Leica very easy to use in a wide variety of situations but especially in interior and dimly lit areas, but my trusty manual-focus Nikon F3 is also very easy to focus with a fast lens.

Response:

Hello dat123 said: In fact I think the SLR’s split image focusing screen uses the same principles as the rangefinder.  Just the SLR’s split image cannot fall out of sync.

However, for short focal length lenses, the base length of an SLR split image is much shorter than a rangefinder camera. It’s about 6mm versus 50mm for the rangefinder. Rangefinder accuracy is directly proportional to baselength. — Jerry Gardner                   | Bill Clinton has all the steely resolve of

Response:

Hello dat123 said: In fact I think the SLR’s split image focusing screen uses the same principles as the rangefinder.  Just the SLR’s split image cannot fall out of sync. However, for short focal length lenses, the base length of an SLR split image is much shorter than a rangefinder camera. It’s about 6mm versus 50mm for the rangefinder. Rangefinder accuracy is directly proportional to baselength.

True.  The baseline of an SLR’s rangefinder is approximately equal to the focal length divided by the f number where the split image just barely doesn’t black out.  Different screens will black out at different f numbers, depending on the angles at which the screen’s split prisms are cut.  A screen that can handle f4 will have about a 6mm baseline when used with a 24mm lens.  But that same screen will have a 100mm baseline, double the Leica’s, when used with a 400mm lens (but that 400mm lens had better be f4 or better). A split image screen designed for fast lenses gives a wider baseline, and therefore better focusing accuracy.  But it blacks out and becomes totally useless on slower lenses.  A split image screen designed for slow lenses can be used with them, but when you use such a screen with a fast lens, you lose that extra baseline the fast lens could have given you.  That’s why split image screens come in different flavors, and why it’s important to at least approximately match the screen with the lens. –Rich

Response:

So apply the same math to a wide angle and who wins? The RF.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello dat123 said: In fact I think the SLR’s split image focusing screen uses the same principles as the rangefinder.  Just the SLR’s split image cannot fall out of sync. However, for short focal length lenses, the base length of an SLR split image is much shorter than a rangefinder camera. It’s about 6mm versus 50mm for the rangefinder. Rangefinder accuracy is directly proportional to baselength. True.  The baseline of an SLR’s rangefinder is approximately equal to the focal length divided by the f number where the split image just barely doesn’t black out.  Different screens will black out at different f numbers, depending on the angles at which the screen’s split prisms are cut.  A screen that can handle f4 will have about a 6mm baseline when used with a 24mm lens.  But that same screen will have a 100mm baseline, double the Leica’s, when used with a 400mm lens (but that 400mm lens had better be f4 or better). A split image screen designed for fast lenses gives a wider baseline, and therefore better focusing accuracy.  But it blacks out and becomes totally useless on slower lenses.  A split image screen designed for slow lenses can be used with them, but when you use such a screen with a fast lens, you lose that extra baseline the fast lens could have given you.  That’s why split image screens come in different flavors, and why it’s important to at least approximately match the screen with the lens. –Rich

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – True.  The baseline of an SLR’s rangefinder is approximately equal to the focal length divided by the f number where the split image just barely doesn’t black out.  Different screens will black out at different f numbers, depending on the angles at which the screen’s split prisms are cut.  A screen that can handle f4 will have about a 6mm baseline when used with a 24mm lens.  But that same screen will have a 100mm baseline, double the Leica’s, when used with a 400mm lens (but that 400mm lens had better be f4 or better). A split image screen designed for fast lenses gives a wider baseline, and therefore better focusing accuracy.  But it blacks out and becomes totally useless on slower lenses.  A split image screen designed for slow lenses can be used with them, but when you use such a screen with a fast lens, you lose that extra baseline the fast lens could have given you.  That’s why split image screens come in different flavors, and why it’s important to at least approximately match the screen with the lens.

What a fascinating post.  Truly informative, this is one for the archive.  Thanks for posting it! Best regards, — Tony Polson, North Yorkshire, UK

Response:

[ ... ] The nice thing about the Leica is that the viewfinder always looks the same, and doesn’t have mirrors and prisms to reduce the light.

Say what?  You’re starting to sound like you’ve never even seen a rangefinder.  A rangefinder has TWO windows on the front.  You DO look directly through ONE of them, but the image you get from the other has to go through exactly the same sort of prisms and/or mirrors as an SLR uses.  Light reduction is minimal in both cases too — the secondary view you get in a rangefinder isn’t substantially dimmer than the primary image.  In any case, the brightness of the image in an SLR normally depends a LOT more on the finder screen than on the mirrors and/or prisms in the light path. —     Later,     Jerry. The Universe is a figment of its own imagination.

Response:

A rangefinder has TWO windows on the front.

Not all RF cameras have 2 windows, some only have 1.. Colyn Leica Camera/Lens Information http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Veranda/9472 X-No Archive-yes

Response:

Not all RF cameras have 2 windows, some only have 1..

But even an RF camera with a single window (I’ve never seen such a beast, not to say one doesn’t exist) needs to be viewing the scene from two distinct points within that window. Otherwise there can be no triangulation and thus no focusing. -Dave-

Response:

Is an M6 easier to focus than a manual focus SLR?  Can accurate focus be achieved more quickly?

For me, it’s my eyes that are limiting. I am unable to focus a rangefinder because the image I see is just to small and to wok with. Therefore, I would recommend you try one and use your own judegment. Dave

Response:

The baseline of an SLR’s rangefinder is approximately equal to the focal length divided by the f number where the split image just barely doesn’t black out.

Don’t you also want to multiply by the viewfinder magnification? —

Response:

Not all RF cameras have 2 windows, some only have 1.. But even an RF camera with a single window (I’ve never seen such a beast, not to say one doesn’t exist) needs to be viewing the scene from two distinct points within that window. Otherwise there can be no triangulation and thus no focusing.

I need to clarify what I meant.. Most RF cameras use 2 small windows for focusing but only 1 for viewing. While it is true that the RF uses the same prism that the viewfinder uses, the viewfinder does not use the focusing mirrors.. Colyn Leica Camera/Lens Information http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Veranda/9472 X-No Archive-yes

Response:

In article <C19CA64AB717DD2F.0570D38BB061AF12.BC51BF44A0096B22 [ ... ] I need to clarify what I meant.. Most RF cameras use 2 small windows for focusing but only 1 for viewing.

Are you saying that the "most RF cameras" allow you to somehow "turn off" the light coming from the second window except while you’re focusing?  I’ve seen and used a pretty fair number of RF cameras over the years, and I’ve never seen such a thing, and this is the first time I’ve heard anybody say anything that would even hint at the possibility.  Assuming you’re correct and somebody provides this, what exactly is the point of it?  What does it accomplish? While it is true that the RF uses the same prism that the viewfinder uses, the viewfinder does not use the focusing mirrors..

On most RF cameras, at least part of what you see in the viewfinder has passed through a prism and/or been bounced off of at least one mirror.  IOW, there’s at most a quantitative difference from SLRs (I.e. number of mirrors and/or prims) NOT a qualitative one (whether the image has been through a prism or bounced off a mirror at all). —     Later,     Jerry. The Universe is a figment of its own imagination.

Response:

I’m not sure what you are trying to read into Colyn email.  Most (if not all) RF use 2 small windows for focusing but only one for viewing.  You look straight though the VF window, not thru any mirrors or prisms or anything else.  The VF window usually has some built in diopter to increase / decrease the magnification to show more or less.  If you own a RF and cover up the two windows used for focusing you’ll lose the focusing patch and nothing else.  On a Leica M you also lose the framelines.  The VF doesn’t get brighter or dimmer or change in any other way.  There is no reason to "turn off" the RF light, it doesn’t affect viewing in anyway at all. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I need to clarify what I meant.. Most RF cameras use 2 small windows for focusing but only 1 for viewing. Are you saying that the "most RF cameras" allow you to somehow "turn off" the light coming from the second window except while you’re focusing?  I’ve seen and used a pretty fair number of RF cameras over the years, and I’ve never seen such a thing, and this is the first time I’ve heard anybody say anything that would even hint at the

Response:

The baseline of an SLR’s rangefinder is approximately equal to the focal length divided by the f number where the split image just barely doesn’t black out. Don’t you also want to multiply by the viewfinder magnification?

Not to determine the baseline.  Putting a magnifier on the viewfinder is the same as putting a magnifier on a rangefinder.  It doesn’t change the baseline (the distance between the two points of view you’re trying to match up), but it DOES magnify both images, making it easier to line them up precisely. Suppose you had a ruler in your field of view, and you looked at your split image viewing system focused at a certain distance behind the ruler.  Changing the baseline would change which number on the top image of the ruler lines up with the ‘1′ on the bottom image of the ruler.  Changing the viewfinder magnification would not change how the top and bottom images line up with one another, but it would magnify the misalignment as it magnifies both images. The net effect on focusing ease and precision would be fairly similar, so it’s reasonable to look at the product of the baseline times the magnification when comparing focusing systems.  But that’s not the same as saying that a change in viewfinder magnification changes the baseline. –Rich

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The baseline of an SLR’s rangefinder is approximately equal to the focal length divided by the f number where the split image just barely doesn’t black out. Don’t you also want to multiply by the viewfinder magnification? Not to determine the baseline.  Putting a magnifier on the viewfinder is the same as putting a magnifier on a rangefinder.  It doesn’t change the baseline (the distance between the two points of view you’re trying to match up), but it DOES magnify both images, making it easier to line them up precisely.

The baselength times the VF magnification is called the "effective baselength", and does affect the accuracy of a rangefinder system. The higher the mag, the longer the effective baselength, the more easily you can see small changes in the rangefinder images, the more accurate and consistent the focussing. For a full treatment of the issues (in great gory detail) see: http://www.imx.nl/photosite/leica/technics/rfaccuracy.html Paul

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Question:

Anyone use this len before? My buget is tigh, I just want to use this lens to replace my exiting 28-80 USM IV. I mainly USE my SLR while I travel. —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

Hi, It’s OK for 4×6 pictures, not much more in my opinion. Pierre – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Anyone use this len before? My buget is tigh, I just want to use this lens to replace my exiting 28-80 USM IV. I mainly USE my SLR while I travel. —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

Tight budget?  Buy the 50mm F1.8 II; $84.95 from B&H.  Cheaply built (like the kit zooms); however, it is exceptionally sharp.  Later, you can add a 28-105 or better yet, the 28-135 IS. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Anyone use this len before? My buget is tigh, I just want to use this lens to replace my exiting 28-80 USM IV. I mainly USE my SLR while I travel. —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

I bought one on a whim.  It was cheap and light so I figured I could use it with my Elan IIe and have somthing to use when I didn’t want to carry a bag full of other gear.  It does ok for snapshots (4×6).  I understand that it was designed for the EOS APS cameras so the 22-55 range would correspond to something more general purpose (~30-80?)for APS.  It doesn’t have the zoom range I would like for a general purpose lens on any of my 35mm cameras, so it mostly sits on the shelf as I eventually bought a 28-300 to replace it. Mike Anyone use this len before? My buget is tigh, I just want to use this lens to replace my exiting 28-80 USM IV. I mainly USE my SLR while I travel. —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

  You have a lens as good as the 22-55 now. — Chapel Hill artist and photo restorer http://www.homeusers.prestel.co.uk/magor/tony Selecting Your First SLR – The Grey Card Walk The Teleconverter Page. A Java Site

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Question:

Hi! I have purchased the camera Olympus IS-1 (IS-1000) SLR w/o manual. Am looking for instruction manual for Olympus IS-1 (IS-1000) SLR. Also any help on camera operation is appreciated. thank you. Eugene Ageenko

Response:

Check out my website for some easy to understand camera and film tips.  Oh yeah, and some fun stuff too. http://www.crosswinds.net/~roadsidephoto/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi! I have purchased the camera Olympus IS-1 (IS-1000) SLR w/o manual. Am looking for instruction manual for Olympus IS-1 (IS-1000) SLR. Also any help on camera operation is appreciated. thank you. Eugene Ageenko

Response:

Call Olympus at 1-800-622-6372.

Response:

 Try http://www.craigcamera.com — Digital photo restoration in autumnal Chapel Hill NC http://www.homeusers.prestel.co.uk/magor/tony New – A Digital Workflow + Sharpness: Threat or Menace? And Selecting Your First SLR  - Java must be enabled Before you buy.

Response:

Hi! I have purchased the camera Olympus IS-1 (IS-1000) SLR w/o manual. Am looking for instruction manual for Olympus IS-1 (IS-1000) SLR. Also any help on camera operation is appreciated.

There is a lot of info on this model and the iS series as a whole on the iS/L page at The Unofficial OM Sales Information File: http://members.nbci.com/_XMCM/veluwen/om-sif/is-series/is-series.htm Per Nordenberg

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Question:

I’m a fairly "balanced" person too.  I find the "mainstream" boats all to be "stable".  Some tend to be a bit "tippy", but after an hour or so, I’ve always reached a comfort level (well, maybe not to the point I could get into the day-hatch in rough water). I recently sold a Foster Rowe Silhouette. It’s the only really "tippy" boat that I’ve paddled.  I had it for a year, and I had no problems with it, except for the day-hatch thing in rough water. In "heinous" conditions, it would be a bit disconcerting to "stop"; but as long as it was underway, I felt comfortable (I guess it’s like riding a bicycle). I’ve surfed with it, played in the current (up to 8 knots) in Deception Pass (3′ standing waves), paddled in 25 MPH wind storms, and through 2-4′ wind waves. I sold it in favor of a CD Gulfstream. The main reason being that I wanted something that I could be comfortable taking pictures with my 35mm SLR. I’ve come to appreciate the increased maneuverability and can deal with the slight loss in speed and the "corkiness" of the Gulfstream in rough (clapotis) water (bounces like a cork much more than the Silhouette). The loss in tracking is offset by the skeg on the Gulfstream. With the right frame of mind, confidence (a bomber roll?), and a quiet- water area to explore the limits of the primary and secondary stability of a boat, I’m sure that a person with good balance would be comfortable with any of the mainstream boats!  But, it is only my opinion…  :-) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – For those of you keeping score (*laff*), you’ll remember that not long ago, I was sure that I’d be putting together a CLC kit boat — probably a CH17-LT.  Well, reality stuck when the CLC folks pretty much agreed with several people on this forum — ROCKS BAAAAAAAD!  Hrrrrm, I don’t know that my wife and I know enough about what we like and don’t like to commit to a flatwater only boat (I foresee the CLC’s becoming a second boat in the next year or so).  That means I have to go back to plastic boat selection (I’m not going to invest in glass/kevlar until I know more about whether I’ll like the sport).  Sooooo, I’m looking really hard at the Perception Corona and the Necky Looksha Sport. Both are compromise touring boats — in the 14.5′ range.  The general description I get of both is that they’re a bit tempermental — like a fine sports care — but also responsive like the same car.  The dealer actually told me that the perception is as fast as many a 17 footer due to it’s slim (and oh so tippy hull). So, here’s the story.  I’m one of those particularly balanced kinds — roller blades on his first try, snow boards / snow skis on first try, etc.  I have a hard time believing that any boat that anyone would put on the market I wouldn’t be able to balance.  And, after I get comfortable with it, the idea that it would be responsive and "turn on it’s axis" is very appealing.  One dealer did mention poor secondary stability on the Perception Corona however — which is of some concern.  Wouldn’t you want it to kind of stop rolling all by itself at some point? Anyone got any opinions on these two boats or other boats in the "compromise" touring class? Thanks again for all your help. Before you buy.

Before you buy.

Response:

For those of you keeping score (*laff*), you’ll remember that not long ago, I was sure that I’d be putting together a CLC kit boat — probably a CH17-LT…

 Welcome ot the "I’d rather paddle than build" group.  Though building has it’s own rewards. Sooooo, I’m looking really hard at the Perception Corona and the Necky Looksha Sport.  Both are compromise touring boats — in the 14.5′ range…

I’m not up on Necky’s, but the Perception line I know a little about. The Corona is near the "bottom" of the "real" kayak market.  It would be worth your while to test-drive one first.  If you can just jump in it and be complete comfortable right away, I wouldn’t recommend it. You’re going to grow fairly quickly in skill, and the Corona will leave you short. So, here’s the story.  I’m one of those particularly balanced kinds — roller blades on his first try, snow boards / snow skis on first try, etc.  I have a hard time believing that any boat that anyone would put on the market I wouldn’t be able to balance.  And, after I get comfortable with it, the idea that it would be responsive and "turn on it’s axis" is very appealing.  One dealer did mention poor secondary stability on the Perception Corona however — which is of some concern.  Wouldn’t you want it to kind of stop rolling all by itself at some point?

The poor secondary stability is a product of having HUGE initial stability, i.e. the boat is an entry level (or even rental) sort of machine. That said, like you, I thought I could do balance sports fairly well. Learned to nordic ski (competitively even, though not very good at it) in my mid-20s, rollerblading at 35, learned to skateboard at 40, etc. So I figured I could get a real narrow high-end boat and pick it up no problem, right?  HA!  I bought a surfski and went swimming three times in my first six tries and the other three were the "OHMIGOSHI’MGONNAGOSWIMMINGANYSECONDNOW!" wobbles all over the lake. It wasn’t until I had a couple hours in the surfski that I could go a mile in the thing.  Now, (nine months later) I can jump in it in any conditions and not think too hard about it.  But I’ve also acquired a flatwater sprint K1, and I’m back to the falling out and wobbles again.  So there are boats out there that are on the market that will humble even the most gifted (at least initially)… Al Bowers — Al Bowers

Response:

For those of you keeping score (*laff*), you’ll remember that not long ago, I was sure that I’d be putting together a CLC kit boat — probably a CH17-LT.  Well, reality stuck when the CLC folks pretty much agreed with several people on this forum — ROCKS BAAAAAAAD!  Hrrrrm, I don’t know that my wife and I know enough about what we like and don’t like to commit to a flatwater only boat (I foresee the CLC’s becoming a second boat in the next year or so).  That means I have to go back to plastic boat selection (I’m not going to invest in glass/kevlar until I know more about whether I’ll like the sport).  Sooooo, I’m looking really hard at the Perception Corona and the Necky Looksha Sport.  Both are compromise touring boats — in the 14.5′ range.  The general description I get of both is that they’re a bit tempermental — like a fine sports care — but also responsive like the same car.  The dealer actually told me that the perception is as fast as many a 17 footer due to it’s slim (and oh so tippy hull).

I paddled the Corona once and honestly don’t remember much about it. I’ve paddled the Looksha Sport a bunch of times.  I’d agree with the assessment: the boat seems tippy when you first sit in it, which most folks would probably agree makes it "temperamental".  However, it’s got bomber secondary stability, making it great to edge, and it is very responsive.   So, here’s the story.  I’m one of those particularly balanced kinds — roller blades on his first try, snow boards / snow skis on first try, etc.  I have a hard time believing that any boat that anyone would put on the market I wouldn’t be able to balance.  And, after I get comfortable with it, the idea that it would be responsive and "turn on it’s axis" is very appealing.  One dealer did mention poor secondary stability on the Perception Corona however — which is of some concern.  Wouldn’t you want it to kind of stop rolling all by itself at some point?

Well…secondary stability isn’t exactly like training wheels.  Even a boat with real good secondary stability will still tip over.  But yeah, I’d stay far away from a boat that had poor secondary stability — not so much because it’d keep rolling, but more because you can really use that secondary stability to get the boat to do a lot more than if you’re just sitting flat on the water.   BTW, I think the "compromise" in the Looksha Sport probably comes in two areas: speed and storage.  All other things being equal, it won’t be as fast as a longer boat, and you won’t be able to carry as much gear in it.  I’ve never carried overnight gear in one, but I’ve carried the trip leader crap on a day trip (meaning my stuff plus extra clothes, extra food, a couple liters extra water, bigger first aid kit, etc.) and not had trouble with handling or with keeping up with the group.  So, while the Looksha Sport isn’t the greatest in terms of speed and storage, I don’t think it exactly sucks in either area.  I think it’s a safe buy for you, unless you’re definitely planning to do real long trips real soon.  It’ll be a fun boat, it’ll perform adequately, and if you get to the point where speed or storage are big concerns, you will be able to get some bucks for it because it’s a perennially popular boat.  Only one thing — when you decide to start learning to roll, seriously consider ditching the crappy thigh braces.  Yes, you can roll the boat with them, but they don’t hold you in very well unless you jam the footpegs up to the point of discomfort.  I’d rip them out and put in something by Perception, maybe. — ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::         "I would not exchange the sorrows of my heart                 for the joys of the multitude"

Response:

For those of you keeping score (*laff*), you’ll remember that not long ago, I was sure that I’d be putting together a CLC kit boat — probably a CH17-LT.  Well, reality stuck when the CLC folks pretty much agreed with several people on this forum — ROCKS BAAAAAAAD!  Hrrrrm, I don’t know that my wife and I know enough about what we like and don’t like to commit to a flatwater only boat (I foresee the CLC’s becoming a second boat in the next year or so).  That means I have to go back to plastic boat selection (I’m not going to invest in glass/kevlar until I know more about whether I’ll like the sport).  Sooooo, I’m looking really hard at the Perception Corona and the Necky Looksha Sport.  Both are compromise touring boats — in the 14.5′ range.  The general description I get of both is that they’re a bit tempermental — like a fine sports care — but also responsive like the same car.  The dealer actually told me that the perception is as fast as many a 17 footer due to it’s slim (and oh so tippy hull). So, here’s the story.  I’m one of those particularly balanced kinds — roller blades on his first try, snow boards / snow skis on first try, etc.  I have a hard time believing that any boat that anyone would put on the market I wouldn’t be able to balance.  And, after I get comfortable with it, the idea that it would be responsive and "turn on it’s axis" is very appealing.  One dealer did mention poor secondary stability on the Perception Corona however — which is of some concern.  Wouldn’t you want it to kind of stop rolling all by itself at some point? Anyone got any opinions on these two boats or other boats in the "compromise" touring class? Thanks again for all your help. Before you buy.

Response:

Question:

I have a chance to buy a Mamiya 500 DTL in excellent shape.  I am looking for some comments on this camera’s usability and features.  This is what I know (or think I know) so far: – Pentax M42 Universal Screw Mount with auto diaphragm – Cloth shutter curtains – M and X sync PC sockets, no hot shoe (accessory available) – No self timer – Match needle metering system, ISO 25-3200 – Stop-down metering only – Choice between averaging and spot metering Are these specifications correct?  Is there anything else I should know?   Anyone use one of these on a regular basis? Thanks for any input you can give. Jim

Response:

Your specs look good to me.  I had a 1000 DTL about 25 years ago.  It’s a good intro 35mm SLR. Darren in Bakersfield

Response:

You’ll be very happy with it. The Mamiya lenses of that period were not of the very high quality we associate with that name today. You may want to find a Pentax brand screw-mount lens if you want the best possible image quality. The camera, if it’s in good working condition, is excellent.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a chance to buy a Mamiya 500 DTL in excellent shape.  I am looking for some comments on this camera’s usability and features.  This is what I know (or think I know) so far: – Pentax M42 Universal Screw Mount with auto diaphragm – Cloth shutter curtains – M and X sync PC sockets, no hot shoe (accessory available) – No self timer – Match needle metering system, ISO 25-3200 – Stop-down metering only – Choice between averaging and spot metering Are these specifications correct?  Is there anything else I should know? Anyone use one of these on a regular basis? Thanks for any input you can give. Jim

Response:

Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I currently have a Canon EOS Rebel, and I’m assuming it’s one of the original models, as I have had it for 10 years or so. It still takes good pictures, but we hate having to keep up with the flash all the time. We often get stuck without it when we need it, etc.  So, I’ve been looking at the new cameras, one of which is the Rebel 2000. I know that with the "pop up" flashes, you start increasing your risk of red eye, which I don’t ever recall having that problem with my old Rebel. I noticed that the Rebel 2000 isn’t advertised as having "Red-Eye Reduction" control, whereas the Rebel G does. Is there anyone out there that currently uses the Rebel 2000 that could tell me if they notice problems with red eye?  In addition to that, if anyone has any other suggestions as to a different camera, I’ll entertain that as well. My wife and I like simplicity, and our old Rebel never let us down in terms of picture quality. Thanks in advance! Bert

The Rebel 2000 does have a red-eye reduction function, but I don’t know how effective it is. Mathijs

Response:

I also recently moved from a Rebel S II to a Rebel 2000. I evaluated the Elan IIe and chose to stick with the Rebel.  I never really cared for the old Rebel but find the new one to be vastly superior. The 2000 seems more solid, has more features – including red eye reduction by the way, and I like the small size.  This, of course, is personal preference. But, having smaller hands, I find the 2000 easy to use and light to carry.  My camera of choice years ago was an Olympus OM-1. The 2000 is not an OM-1 but has significant improvements over the S II to bring it more in line with the kinds of features  one would expect of a more serious camera for an  amateur.

Response:

If I remember correctly, Rebel 2000 does have red eye reduction.  So you don’t need to worry about that. BTW, I prefer Elan II and Elan IIe.  It feels more comfortable to my hand. (Go to a local camera store and try that out, don’t just take my word.) Also, rear dial, mirror lockup, DOF preview, fast and quiet film review, Eye controlled Focus (IIe only) are some important and desirable features for a good camera.  Coupled with Canon Speedlite 380EX, you don’t need to use the pop-up flash plus more (really a lot more).  However, if 7 point AF is very important to you, Rebel 2000 may be a better choice because Elan II has only 3 point AF. (Though I mentioned a lot of jargon, Elan II is actually very easy and simple to use…) Good luck and enjoy.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I currently have a Canon EOS Rebel, and I’m assuming it’s one of the original models, as I have had it for 10 years or so. It still takes good pictures, but we hate having to keep up with the flash all the time. We often get stuck without it when we need it, etc.  So, I’ve been looking at the new cameras, one of which is the Rebel 2000. I know that with the "pop up" flashes, you start increasing your risk of red eye, which I don’t ever recall having that problem with my old Rebel. I noticed that the Rebel 2000 isn’t advertised as having "Red-Eye Reduction" control, whereas the Rebel G does. Is there anyone out there that currently uses the Rebel 2000 that could tell me if they notice problems with red eye?  In addition to that, if anyone has any other suggestions as to a different camera, I’ll entertain that as well. My wife and I like simplicity, and our old Rebel never let us down in terms of picture quality. Thanks in advance! Bert

Response:

I currently have a Canon EOS Rebel, and I’m assuming it’s one of the original models, as I have had it for 10 years or so. It still takes good pictures, but we hate having to keep up with the flash all the time. We often get stuck without it when we need it, etc.  So, I’ve been looking at the new cameras, one of which is the Rebel 2000. I know that with the "pop up" flashes, you start increasing your risk of red eye, which I don’t ever recall having that problem with my old Rebel. I noticed that the Rebel 2000 isn’t advertised as having "Red-Eye Reduction" control, whereas the Rebel G does. Is there anyone out there that currently uses the Rebel 2000 that could tell me if they notice problems with red eye?  In addition to that, if anyone has any other suggestions as to a different camera, I’ll entertain that as well. My wife and I like simplicity, and our old Rebel never let us down in terms of picture quality. Thanks in advance! Bert

Response:

Question:

I’m looking for a monopod that collapses to 12" or so.  The collapsed length is important because I want to carry it in my belt pack.  It doesn’t have to support heavy loads, just a 35mm P/S or digicam or maybe a small SLR.  The only one I can find is a 5-section one made by Linhof and costs $150+ discounted!!!  Comparable monopods (in terms of load capacity) that collapse to 18" or so are easy to find in the $30 range.  There are even some 5-section one that aren’t that much more, but they don’t collapse as small as the Linhof. What’s the deal???

Response:

You’re right. I just got myself the smallest Gitzo for an outrageous amount of money. It fits neatly in my Phototrekker, but does not extent higher than say 1.70 m. Mark

Response:

Adorama sells one for about $90. Not cheap, but cheaper. Rich — http://people.ne.mediaone.net/rjfecteau

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m looking for a monopod that collapses to 12" or so.  The collapsed length is important because I want to carry it in my belt pack.  It doesn’t have to support heavy loads, just a 35mm P/S or digicam or maybe a small SLR.  The only one I can find is a 5-section one made by Linhof and costs $150+ discounted!!!  Comparable monopods (in terms of load capacity) that collapse to 18" or so are easy to find in the $30 range.  There are even some 5-section one that aren’t that much more, but they don’t collapse as small as the Linhof. What’s the deal???

Response:

Adorama sells one for about $90. Not cheap, but cheaper.

Interesting.  What is the make and model?  Thanks.

Response:

It’s called the Slik Pro-Pod. The part # is SLPP and it’s $89.95. Rich — http://people.ne.mediaone.net/rjfecteau

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Adorama sells one for about $90. Not cheap, but cheaper. Interesting.  What is the make and model?  Thanks.

Response:

It’s called the Slik Pro-Pod. The part # is SLPP and it’s $89.95.

Thanks, but according to the B&H spec sheet the Pro Pod (SLPP) is 23.8" collapsed and weighs 37 oz.  Are you sure you’re not thinking of something different?

Response:

Looking for light and cheap?  Check out a Bogen 3006 monopod.  Extends to 61", collapses to 19.5", weighs 14oz, and sells for less than $30 at B&H.  For another $30 you can put a Bogen 3009 ballhead on it (you’ll need the 3/8-1/4 adapter).  I have this combination and it’s great for hikes and such. Rad I’m looking for a monopod that collapses to 12" or so.  The collapsed length is important because I want to carry it in my belt pack.  It doesn’t have to support heavy loads, just a 35mm P/S or digicam or maybe a small SLR.  The only one I can find is a 5-section one made by Linhof and costs $150+ discounted!!!  Comparable monopods (in terms of load capacity) that collapse to 18" or so are easy to find in the $30 range.  There are even some 5-section one that aren’t that much more, but they don’t collapse as small as the Linhof. What’s the deal???

Before you buy.

Response:

Question:

I am buying a Ricoh Singlex TLS from ebay.  (I know, not always the best way to purchase camera equipment, but I only dropped about $50 bucks for the body and the lens.)  I don’t know much about this camera except that it takes Pentax-type screw mount lenses.  I need to know if anyone knows what this camera takes as far as flashes.  In the picture of the camera, I can’t see a hot shoe.  Is there a terminal that a flash can be connected to?  I would really appreciate some help here. Thanks, Amanda Before you buy.

Response:

I am buying a Ricoh Singlex TLS from ebay.  (I know, not always the best way to purchase camera equipment, but I only dropped about $50 bucks for the body and the lens.)  I don’t know much about this camera except that it takes Pentax-type screw mount lenses.  I need to know if anyone knows what this camera takes as far as flashes.  In the picture of the camera, I can’t see a hot shoe.  Is there a terminal that a flash can be connected to?  I would really appreciate some help here. Thanks, Amanda

It’s a good solid, heavy body, reliable, shutter 1-1000, vertical travel metal shutter. Nice short "throw" on the advance lever allows for fast picture taking. Through the Lens metering, averaging, CdS, stopdown mode for meter operation. If the meter’s broken, everything else still works, needs no battery for any other function, manual/mechanical film transport, stopdown, and shutter. Will accept any 42mm "standard" Pentax/Praktica/Ricoh/Yashica/Vivitar et cetera screwmount lens. No hotshoe. There are accessory shoes available that clip on, held by the viewfinder frame. Standard pc type socket for plugging in electronic flash cable. Use the one marked "x" not the one marked "FP." If you can’t find a clip-on shoe, find one of those flash holder brackets that hold the flash to the side and connect to the camera using the tripod socket on the bottom. For $50, you did just fine, as long as the shutter is good. EJKowalski

Response:

I have acquired a mint, in the box, Ricoh Singlex TLS. Everything seems to be working perfectly. I would like to know what sort of battery I should get for it. Does it use a mercury battery?

Response:

I have acquired a mint, in the box, Ricoh Singlex TLS. Everything seems to be working perfectly. I would like to know what sort of battery I should get for it. Does it use a mercury battery?

It uses EPX625, a mercury battery. There is a Duracell 625A that is the same size, but the EPX625 is a 1.35 volt battery and the 625A is a 1.5 volt. I must presume that it would not give accurate readings. There is a Canadian source for mercury batteries – some posters depend on them.

Response:

<< I have acquired a mint, in the box, Ricoh Singlex TLS. Everything seems to be working perfectly. I would like to know what sort of battery I should get for it. Does it use a mercury battery? Cool. That was my first 35mm SLR . . .

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