Question:

Aha – try the Egypt section Hans-Georg. I know its not safari country but it still counts as Africa :) Charles www.wildviews.com Natural History Photography

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I just finished doing a major redesign of my travel photography site: http://www.molon.de/Galleries.htm Basically the site now has a much improved user interface (is based for the first time on CSS) and there is an internal advanced search which generates among others pages with thumbnails in the search results. Comments and feedback are welcome. Alfred, I saw some impressive pictures while looking for any from Africa, but couldn’t find any. Where are they? Hans-Georg (also living in Munich) — No mail, please.

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I just finished doing a major redesign of my travel photography site: http://www.molon.de/Galleries.htm Basically the site now has a much improved user interface (is based for the first time on CSS) and there is an internal advanced search which generates among others pages with thumbnails in the search results. Comments and feedback are welcome.

Alfred, I saw some impressive pictures while looking for any from Africa, but couldn’t find any. Where are they? Hans-Georg (also living in Munich) — No mail, please.

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Great site Alfred. You do still have a couple of gremlins. On the front page, the links to ‘new site layout’, ‘Brunei photo gallery’, and ‘Kota Belud photo gallery’ are all trying to link to a page on your hard drive ! (links show up as file:///c:/website/root/…..). Aside from that, you’ve obviously put a lot of effort (and time) into the site. You have also managed to avoid two common faults of having too many gimmicks, and over-fancy screen layouts. ‘Keep it simple’ – well done. Small point – I have been advised to keep images on the web down to a max 400 pixels on the longest side to hold load times down as far as possible. Might be worth considering next time (!) you redesign… I missed the start of this string, but there was obviously some debate about digital SLRs. I have recently converted to Nikon D100, and sold off my 35mm bodies before Xmas. I have absolutely no worries about the switchover (I can still use my old lenses !!), but confess that I have found the ability to muck about with images is a little addictive. I check the contrast, balance, cropping etc on everything I do now, so the money I save in processing costs are somewhat outweighed by this. Its just a question of discipline I guess (but its such good fun – I can crop anything I like *before* its printed). I haven’t yet updated my photo site to reflect any of this – a job for the new year. But I will – I have a load of shots from Kilimanjaro and Tarangire NR to sort out. I have a load on our family website at http://www.tomalin.org/charles/tanzania/index.htm. I will re-organise the ‘good ones’ onto the photo site soon. Cheers Charles www.wildviews.com Natural History Photography

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I just finished doing a major redesign of my travel photography site: http://www.molon.de/Galleries.htm Basically the site now has a much improved user interface (is based for the first time on CSS) and there is an internal advanced search which generates among others pages with thumbnails in the search results. Comments and feedback are welcome. — Alfred Molon Really lovely pic’s especially liked looking at the places I’ve been too, brings back memories. I understand that your mainly interested in photography but maybe a little more in depth background description of the places would make the site more interesting for the viewer. I also had a similar experience to you, went to Malaysia and come back with a lot more "baggage" than I went with. It must be something to do with the sun. Although I can’t really use that as an excuse as I live in Africa. I didn’t see any on Africa ! Enjoy your future travels Richard

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Very nice site and photos. Thanx, Johannes!

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I just finished doing a major redesign of my travel photography site: http://www.molon.de/Galleries.htm Basically the site now has a much improved user interface (is based for the first time on CSS) and there is an internal advanced search which generates among others pages with thumbnails in the search results. Comments and feedback are welcome. — Alfred Molon

Really lovely pic’s especially liked looking at the places I’ve been too, brings back memories. I understand that your mainly interested in photography but maybe a little more in depth background description of the places would make the site more interesting for the viewer. I also had a similar experience to you, went to Malaysia and come back with a lot more "baggage" than I went with. It must be something to do with the sun. Although I can’t really use that as an excuse as I live in Africa. I didn’t see any on Africa ! Enjoy your future travels Richard

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Thanx! I had a quick look at your site, looks great! Kris – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I just finished doing a major redesign of my travel photography site: http://www.molon.de/Galleries.htm Basically the site now has a much improved user interface (is based for the first time on CSS) and there is an internal advanced search which generates among others pages with thumbnails in the search results. Comments and feedback are welcome.

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You get that much? I just see a blank white screen. Very cool.

That is what we need, a site to post photos so that no one else can see them. In the case of my travel photographs this is a big plus (or so my wife claims). Sign me up Scotty. edwardseco

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If you want a really cool way to display photos on the web, there’s a new program that gives you total control and creativity over the display of your photos.  It’s the coolest thing I’ve seen. www.webprose.ws The web site doesn’t even work. On the first page I get dead links for "Home", "Product", "Trial Version", etc. Clicking on them does nothing. Likewise "Back" and "Forward" at the bottom. This is what I got in Netscape 7.2: Take one look and you’ll see the difference! Total crapola. What browser/v did you use?

Safari 1.1.1. Actually with Safari I get two windows, one like I describe, and one behind it like you describe. Neither one allows me to do anything though. miguel — Hundreds of travel photos from around the world: http://travel.u.nu/

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www.webprose.ws The web site doesn’t even work. On the first page I get dead links for "Home", "Product", "Trial Version", etc. Clicking on them does nothing. Likewise "Back" and "Forward" at the bottom. You get that much? I just see a blank white screen. Very cool. Um, I must be doing something wrong, everything works fine on the site.

Probably just means you have the same magic combination of software and settings as the person who threw it together. A hallmark of amateur web developers is they fail to realize that other people have different setups. Rather than developing for the web, they develop for their own browser. miguel — Hundreds of travel photos from around the world: http://travel.u.nu/

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www.webprose.ws The web site doesn’t even work. On the first page I get dead links for "Home", "Product", "Trial Version", etc. Clicking on them does nothing. Likewise "Back" and "Forward" at the bottom.

You get that much? I just see a blank white screen. Very cool. — Dave Fossett Saitama, Japan

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Um, I must be doing something wrong, everything works fine on the site. John L. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – www.webprose.ws The web site doesn’t even work. On the first page I get dead links for "Home", "Product", "Trial Version", etc. Clicking on them does nothing. Likewise "Back" and "Forward" at the bottom. You get that much? I just see a blank white screen. Very cool.

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If you want a really cool way to display photos on the web, there’s a new program that gives you total control and creativity over the display of your photos.  It’s the coolest thing I’ve seen. www.webprose.ws The web site doesn’t even work. On the first page I get dead links for "Home", "Product", "Trial Version", etc. Clicking on them does nothing. Likewise "Back" and "Forward" at the bottom. miguel

This is what I got in Netscape 7.2: Take one look and you’ll see the difference!     * The web page creation tool for those who want to share photos and videos with family and friends     * The most simple way to organize and view photos, videos, and web pages on your computer and on the web * Well thought out and designed with the non-professional in mind, yet powerful enough for professional web designers. Total crapola. What browser/v did you use?

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says… I’m not sure it would be worth the tradeoff of having a much larger camera to carry around (having one that easily fits in my pants pocket is very nice).

Size (and cost) is what makes me hesitate about upgrading to a DSLR. The camera I’m currently using (the Oly 5050) has an F1.8 lens and is a good compromise between quality and portability. Having a DSLR would give me usable ISO 400 and perhaps 800 settings, but I rarely need that sensitivity. — Alfred Molon http://www.molon.de/Galleries.htm – Photos from Myanmar, Brunei, Malaysia, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Nepal, Egypt, Austria, Budapest and Portugal

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Hey, If you want a really cool way to display photos on the web, there’s a new program that gives you total control and creativity over the display of your photos.  It’s the coolest thing I’ve seen. Check it out at www.webprose.ws

Response:

If you want a really cool way to display photos on the web, there’s a new program that gives you total control and creativity over the display of your photos.  It’s the coolest thing I’ve seen. www.webprose.ws

The web site doesn’t even work. On the first page I get dead links for "Home", "Product", "Trial Version", etc. Clicking on them does nothing. Likewise "Back" and "Forward" at the bottom. miguel — Hundreds of travel photos from around the world: http://travel.u.nu/

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I’ve just browsed some pictures of yours and more particularly those on Vienna and I’m wondering what sort of camera you own, since I find the images rather sharp and full of details.

I think he uses one of the Olympus models – C3030 or something similar. I sure wish I could get photos as sharp as he does, but from my perspective I’m not sure it would be worth the tradeoff of having a much larger camera to carry around (having one that easily fits in my pants pocket is very nice). miguel — Hundreds of travel photos from around the world: http://travel.u.nu/

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Alfred I’ve just browsed some pictures of yours and more particularly those on Vienna and I’m wondering what sort of camera you own, since I find the images rather sharp and full of details.

Most of the images of the Vienna gallery were shot with an Olympus 5050, a 5MP digital camera. In addition, a number of those images are panoramas, obtained by stitching together several images and have resolutions between 10 and 20 MP (uninterpolated). — Alfred Molon http://www.molon.de/Galleries.htm – Photos from Myanmar, Brunei, Malaysia, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Nepal, Egypt, Austria, Budapest and Portugal

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Alfred I’ve just browsed some pictures of yours and more particularly those on Vienna and I’m wondering what sort of camera you own, since I find the images rather sharp and full of details. G

Question:

I’m considering to travel to Ladakh in July. My current photography rig is fully digital and therefor it requires electricity from time to time to recharge batteries. Is electricity common in hotels in that region or should I blow the dust off my old 35mm equipment? Should not be a problem as long as you are close to the road. But if you go trekking there are very few places with reliable current. Also, the Ladakhi climate is not good for electronics. I would bring my ancient Nikon FM2 if I went again, it works under all conditions.

Thanks! I’m not too concerned about the climate though.. the Olympus E-10 I’m using is built like a tank and has survived high dusty Tibetan trips as well as really humid tropical environments. Thanks Bram

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Hi all, I’m considering to travel to Ladakh in July. My current photography rig is fully digital and therefor it requires electricity from time to time to recharge batteries. Is electricity common in hotels in that region or should I blow the dust off my old 35mm equipment? Thanks! Bram http://www.brambos.com/personal

Response:

I’m considering to travel to Ladakh in July. My current photography rig is fully digital and therefor it requires electricity from time to time to recharge batteries. Is electricity common in hotels in that region or should I blow the dust off my old 35mm equipment?

Should not be a problem as long as you are close to the road. But if you go trekking there are very few places with reliable current. Also, the Ladakhi climate is not good for electronics. I would bring my ancient Nikon FM2 if I went again, it works under all conditions. Per http://user.tninet.se/~ipg289h/fu99/Trekking/Treks.html

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Question:

Hi Folks OK, I can’t help it.  We’ve been blessed with some beautiful Fall weather here in the Northwest, and last weekend our ‘02 Ltd. took us up to Mt Rainer.  Along the way, it posed for a photo that became my PC desktop background.  If you’d like to see it, try: www.stjohn-family.com/explorer.htm. Cheers!! Ken

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www.stjohn-family.com/explorer.htm

Cool!

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Very nice but loose the icons keep it clean. All the best.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – www.stjohn-family.com/explorer.htm Cool!

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Hi Folks OK, I can’t help it.  We’ve been blessed with some beautiful Fall weather here in the Northwest, and last weekend our ‘02 Ltd. took us up to Mt Rainer.  Along the way, it posed for a photo that became my PC desktop background.  If you’d like to see it, try: www.stjohn-family.com/explorer.htm. Cheers!! Ken

Awesome pic Ken!  Can ya send me a pic of it without all the icons and stuff?? Thanks!! Billy ‘96 Eddie Bauer

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Beautiful country, great looking vehicle and Windows XP to boot (no pun intended)! DS

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Beautiful pic… nicely placed vehicle too.  Ranier is an amazing park!   I actually think I may have a pic from that same spot.. looks very familiar (the vehicle was a Ranger rental though…  ;) JH 95 EB – 178K miles Houghton, MI

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Folks OK, I can’t help it.  We’ve been blessed with some beautiful Fall weather here in the Northwest, and last weekend our ‘02 Ltd. took us up to Mt Rainer.  Along the way, it posed for a photo that became my PC desktop background.  If you’d like to see it, try: www.stjohn-family.com/explorer.htm. Cheers!! Ken

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FWIW we were at a picnic area just below Paradise Lodge.  A lot of the Park is already being prepped for Winter, but this particular picnic area wasn’t boarded up or access restricted.  Yet, when we turned in there was not a sole anywhere!!  While we ate, it was so quiet that we could hear the wings of the birds flap around as they flew overhead.  We remarked that it was like we were the only people around for miles!! It was a truly remarkable day … temp was about 65 or so, and just the faintest hint of a breeze. Really a "one-of-a-kind" experience!! Ken

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Beautiful pic… nicely placed vehicle too.  Ranier is an amazing park! I actually think I may have a pic from that same spot.. looks very familiar (the vehicle was a Ranger rental though…  ;) JH 95 EB – 178K miles Houghton, MI Hi Folks OK, I can’t help it.  We’ve been blessed with some beautiful Fall weather here in the Northwest, and last weekend our ‘02 Ltd. took us up to Mt Rainer.  Along the way, it posed for a photo that became my PC desktop background.  If you’d like to see it, try: www.stjohn-family.com/explorer.htm. Cheers!! Ken

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Ken, spirit?               :-)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – FWIW we were at a picnic area just below Paradise Lodge.  A lot of the Park is already being prepped for Winter, but this particular picnic area wasn’t boarded up or access restricted.  Yet, when we turned in there was not a sole anywhere!!  While we ate, it was so quiet that we could hear the wings of the birds flap around as they flew overhead.  We remarked that it was like we were the only people around for miles!! It was a truly remarkable day … temp was about 65 or so, and just the faintest hint of a breeze. Really a "one-of-a-kind" experience!! Ken Beautiful pic… nicely placed vehicle too.  Ranier is an amazing park! I actually think I may have a pic from that same spot.. looks very familiar (the vehicle was a Ranger rental though…  ;) JH 95 EB – 178K miles Houghton, MI Hi Folks OK, I can’t help it.  We’ve been blessed with some beautiful Fall weather here in the Northwest, and last weekend our ‘02 Ltd. took us up to Mt Rainer.  Along the way, it posed for a photo that became my PC desktop background.  If you’d like to see it, try: www.stjohn-family.com/explorer.htm. Cheers!! Ken

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Nice Explorer.  I hate you bk your Explorer is nicer than mine! LOL Sam Cederas Raleigh, N.C.

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OK … busted.  Damn spell checkers … they never tell you the RIGHT word!! Make that ….  "not a ‘person’ anywhere!!"  OK???? :-) Ken – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Ken, spirit?               :-) FWIW we were at a picnic area just below Paradise Lodge.  A lot of the Park is already being prepped for Winter, but this particular picnic area wasn’t boarded up or access restricted.  Yet, when we turned in there was not a sole anywhere!!  While we ate, it was so quiet that we could hear the wings of the birds flap around as they flew overhead.  We remarked that it was like we were the only people around for miles!! It was a truly remarkable day … temp was about 65 or so, and just the faintest hint of a breeze. Really a "one-of-a-kind" experience!! Ken Beautiful pic… nicely placed vehicle too.  Ranier is an amazing park! I actually think I may have a pic from that same spot.. looks very familiar (the vehicle was a Ranger rental though…  ;) JH 95 EB – 178K miles Houghton, MI Hi Folks OK, I can’t help it.  We’ve been blessed with some beautiful Fall weather here in the Northwest, and last weekend our ‘02 Ltd. took us up to Mt Rainer.  Along the way, it posed for a photo that became my PC desktop background.  If you’d like to see it, try: www.stjohn-family.com/explorer.htm. Cheers!! Ken

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What kind of camera did you use? Nice shot, we don’t have anything like that in Central Texas. Ron

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – FWIW we were at a picnic area just below Paradise Lodge.  A lot of the Park is already being prepped for Winter, but this particular picnic area wasn’t boarded up or access restricted.  Yet, when we turned in there was not a sole anywhere!!  While we ate, it was so quiet that we could hear the wings of the birds flap around as they flew overhead.  We remarked that it was like we were the only people around for miles!! It was a truly remarkable day … temp was about 65 or so, and just the faintest hint of a breeze. Really a "one-of-a-kind" experience!! Ken Beautiful pic… nicely placed vehicle too.  Ranier is an amazing park! I actually think I may have a pic from that same spot.. looks very familiar (the vehicle was a Ranger rental though…  ;) JH 95 EB – 178K miles Houghton, MI Hi Folks OK, I can’t help it.  We’ve been blessed with some beautiful Fall weather here in the Northwest, and last weekend our ‘02 Ltd. took us up to Mt Rainer.  Along the way, it posed for a photo that became my PC desktop background.  If you’d like to see it, try: www.stjohn-family.com/explorer.htm. Cheers!! Ken

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Ron I used a Nikon CoolPix 2500.  It’s fairly new on the market and I’m frankly impressed.  I’m a old "real film" advanced armature photog, and I’ve basically retired my 35mm stuff since getting this Nikon.  In addition to pretty stunning results, I was also seduced by the 150+ shot capacity of the memory card!! You’re right about Texas … back in the 70’s I lived in Wichita Falls a couple of years when I was stationed at Sheppard AFB and missed my mountains … a lot!! Cheers!! Ken

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What kind of camera did you use? Nice shot, we don’t have anything like that in Central Texas. Ron FWIW we were at a picnic area just below Paradise Lodge.  A lot of the Park is already being prepped for Winter, but this particular picnic area wasn’t boarded up or access restricted.  Yet, when we turned in there was not a sole anywhere!!  While we ate, it was so quiet that we could hear the wings of the birds flap around as they flew overhead.  We remarked that it was like we were the only people around for miles!! It was a truly remarkable day … temp was about 65 or so, and just the faintest hint of a breeze. Really a "one-of-a-kind" experience!! Ken Beautiful pic… nicely placed vehicle too.  Ranier is an amazing park! I actually think I may have a pic from that same spot.. looks very familiar (the vehicle was a Ranger rental though…  ;) JH 95 EB – 178K miles Houghton, MI Hi Folks OK, I can’t help it.  We’ve been blessed with some beautiful Fall weather here in the Northwest, and last weekend our ‘02 Ltd. took us up to Mt Rainer.  Along the way, it posed for a photo that became my PC desktop background.  If you’d like to see it, try: www.stjohn-family.com/explorer.htm. Cheers!! Ken

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Nothing like that, of course…. The terrain around Wimberly (20 miles west of San Marcos) is really nice, tho. JS

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What kind of camera did you use? Nice shot, we don’t have anything like that in Central Texas. Ron FWIW we were at a picnic area just below Paradise Lodge.  A lot of the Park is already being prepped for Winter, but this particular picnic area wasn’t boarded up or access restricted.  Yet, when we turned in there was not a sole anywhere!!  While we ate, it was so quiet that we could hear the wings of the birds flap around as they flew overhead.  We remarked that it was like we were the only people around for miles!! It was a truly remarkable day … temp was about 65 or so, and just the faintest hint of a breeze. Really a "one-of-a-kind" experience!! Ken Beautiful pic… nicely placed vehicle too.  Ranier is an amazing park! I actually think I may have a pic from that same spot.. looks very familiar (the vehicle was a Ranger rental though…  ;) JH 95 EB – 178K miles Houghton, MI Hi Folks OK, I can’t help it.  We’ve been blessed with some beautiful Fall weather here in the Northwest, and last weekend our ‘02 Ltd. took us up to Mt Rainer.  Along the way, it posed for a photo that became my PC desktop background.  If you’d like to see it, try: www.stjohn-family.com/explorer.htm. Cheers!! Ken

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It looks like you’re acclimatizing your ‘pup of an explorer to all the right places!  May you enjoy many more sights, and thanks for sharing such a beautiful photo. Regards, Walter Cox

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Nice Explorer.  I hate you bk your Explorer is nicer than mine! LOL Sam Cederas Raleigh, N.C.

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Question:

(BTW, for those interested in the photographic arts, I ended up with a black body EL2, a chrome late model FE, 35mm f2.8, 50mm f2, 85mm f2, 200mm f4 and a 28-50mm f3.5.)

That is SO yesterday.:-) — visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~royalwulff/

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(BTW, for those interested in the photographic arts, I ended up with a black body EL2, a chrome late model FE, 35mm f2.8, 50mm f2, 85mm f2, 200mm f4 and a 28-50mm f3.5.) That is SO yesterday.:-)

But it is SO retro-cool.  :) Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://home.cogeco.ca/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

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Uh huh…I suggest you start wearing your SOSpenders religiously, now that you’ll be carrying all that ballast…

r stay off the dam walkways  . . . /daytripper (You think a Nikon will trump wayno’s Leica? ;-)

nothing trumps a Leica Peter Visit The Streamer Page at http://home.cogeco.ca/~pcharles/streamers/index.html

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Thanks to our esteemed counsellor, Mr. Harrison, I have been ‘changed’ or perhaps more appropriately, ‘changed back’.  After fondling his old Nikon gear at the Penns rain clave, I did the dastardly deed and bought a bunch of old Nikon stuff.  It’s my intent from this point forward to be a fishing photographer or a ‘photographying’ fisherman, always keeping decent glass with me on my usual fishing forays. Question: Your WJ stuff seems to be the ticket for this task as I’d like to keep the camera stuff in a pouch on high up on my back (the area of my body most likely to stay dry) yet have it accessible.  The Creel seems to be the best doohickey for that job.  Will it hold an SLR camera plus a lens or two in the back pouch and a decent amount of fishing stuff in the front?  Thanks to Louie, I already have a hydration system, so I don’t need that feature on the Creel.  It also has to slide around easily so I can get the camera gear without dropping it in the water. Peter (BTW, for those interested in the photographic arts, I ended up with a black body EL2, a chrome late model FE, 35mm f2.8, 50mm f2, 85mm f2, 200mm f4 and a 28-50mm f3.5.)

Hey Peter, The creel will hold (in the back) a SLR body with a 50-55mm lens, no problem. It will also hold a spare lens or two but I think it would be awkward to have a telephoto on the body stored in the back. Storage up front is adequate for a day trip but it won’t hold anywhere near what we usually carry ;^). A couple of boxes, leaders, tippet, tools, etc, no problem. Also, (I just tested) you will have to release the waist belt clip to spin around for easy access to your camera gear. It takes less than 5 seconds to accomplish that feat. Thanks & Tight Lines! –Walt North Carolina Flyfishin’ & more! http://www.ezflyfish.com http://www.wilsoncreekoutfitters.com

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Thanks to our esteemed counsellor, Mr. Harrison, I have been ‘changed’ or perhaps more appropriately, ‘changed back’.  After fondling his old Nikon gear at the Penns rain clave, I did the dastardly deed and bought a bunch of old Nikon stuff.  It’s my intent from this point forward to be a fishing photographer or a ‘photographying’ fisherman, always keeping decent glass with me on my usual fishing forays. Question: Your WJ stuff seems to be the ticket for this task as I’d like to keep the camera stuff in a pouch on high up on my back (the area of my body most likely to stay dry) yet have it accessible.  The Creel seems to be the best doohickey for that job.  Will it hold an SLR camera plus a lens or two in the back pouch and a decent amount of fishing stuff in the front?  Thanks to Louie, I already have a hydration system, so I don’t need that feature on the Creel.  It also has to slide around easily so I can get the camera gear without dropping it in the water. Peter (BTW, for those interested in the photographic arts, I ended up with a black body EL2, a chrome late model FE, 35mm f2.8, 50mm f2, 85mm f2, 200mm f4 and a 28-50mm f3.5.)

Uh huh…I suggest you start wearing your SOSpenders religiously, now that you’ll be carrying all that ballast… /daytripper (You think a Nikon will trump wayno’s Leica? ;-)

Response:

Thanks to our esteemed counsellor, Mr. Harrison, I have been ‘changed’ or perhaps more appropriately, ‘changed back’.  After fondling his old Nikon gear at the Penns rain clave, I did the dastardly deed and bought a bunch of old Nikon stuff.  It’s my intent from this point forward to be a fishing photographer or a ‘photographying’ fisherman, always keeping decent glass with me on my usual fishing forays. Question: Your WJ stuff seems to be the ticket for this task as I’d like to keep the camera stuff in a pouch on high up on my back (the area of my body most likely to stay dry) yet have it accessible.  The Creel seems to be the best doohickey for that job.  Will it hold an SLR camera plus a lens or two in the back pouch and a decent amount of fishing stuff in the front?  Thanks to Louie, I already have a hydration system, so I don’t need that feature on the Creel.  It also has to slide around easily so I can get the camera gear without dropping it in the water. Peter (BTW, for those interested in the photographic arts, I ended up with a black body EL2, a chrome late model FE, 35mm f2.8, 50mm f2, 85mm f2, 200mm f4 and a 28-50mm f3.5.)

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Question:

Annika: For our upcoming Galapagos trip I will be taking my trusty Nikon N90. I am looking for a nice, compact point-and-shoot 35 mm with zoom for my wife. Can you make a recommendation (or a couple)? I would like to pay less than $200 new. Thanks in advance. w

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I have an Olympus 3500 DLX.  Great Camera, also great Zoom.  Its a little old.  You can check either E-bay or your local camera stores.  Cannon, Minolta are also great cameras.  I don’t know model numbers but you really can’t go wrong with these. Mark G. Not4wood

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Annika: For our upcoming Galapagos trip I will be taking my trusty Nikon N90. I am looking for a nice, compact point-and-shoot 35 mm with zoom for my wife. Can you make a recommendation (or a couple)? I would like to pay less than $200 new. Thanks in advance. w

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I am looking for a nice, compact point-and-shoot 35 mm with zoom for my wife.

Olympus Stylus Epic Zoom.

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I second this (although I don’t have the zoom version).  Took it to Spain with me and shot 28 rolls of beautiful pictures.  The little camera fits very nicely and discretely in a pocket, and it’s weather proof to boot.  The only downside is the rather significant shutter lag.  Press the shutter release and it can take up to 1/2 sec or so to focus and shoot.  When you’re used to an SLR’s instant response, 1/2 second can make the difference between a good picture and a bad one (esp for candid photos). Jeff My other camera is a Nikon N-80.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am looking for a nice, compact point-and-shoot 35 mm with zoom for my wife. Olympus Stylus Epic Zoom.

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Thanks, guys. Olympus it is. It looked good in the limited Usenet research I did. w

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The only downside is the rather significant shutter lag.  Press the shutter release and it can take up to 1/2 sec or so to focus and shoot.  When you’re used to an SLR’s instant response, 1/2 second can make the difference between a good picture and a bad one (esp for candid photos).

Is that delay a digital cam thing?  I have a nikon coolpix, (800 I think) and it has that delay.   Before getting used to it, I’d move after the button was clicked. My other camera is a Nikon N-80.

Digital cams are a pain if you don’t have extra memory or some device to upload the pictures.  At least with an old cam, you can just keep feeding it film when it runs out.  I always bring this old olympus rc35 with me on vacation, it still works pretty good!

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In rec.sport.golf used to an SLR’s instant response, 1/2 second can make the difference between a good picture and a bad one (esp for candid photos). Is that delay a digital cam thing?  I have a nikon coolpix, (800 I think) and it has that delay.   Before getting used to it, I’d move after the button was clicked.

I "thought" I had this problem on my digital for a month or so.  Turns out, it is the autofocus.  If you press the button down half way, it will focus, then shoot instantly when you press it all the way.  Always helps to read the manual. :) Digital cams are a pain if you don’t have extra memory or some device to upload the pictures.  At least with an old cam, you can just keep feeding it film when it runs out.

With the price of a 64meg SmartMedia being around $23 dollars, you don’t have this excuse anymore.  I can store over 100 1.3 megapixel photos on one of them. Bruce

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With the price of a 64meg SmartMedia being around $23 dollars, you don’t have this excuse anymore.  I can store over 100 1.3 megapixel photos on one of them. Bruce

But the pictures from my Pentax K-1000 look a lot better than the same shots with a digital camera, even my brother’s Cannon, which I think has 2.1 or 2.3 MP. — Dan Driscoll Member USGA, NCGA RSG FAQ: http://ttsoft.com/thor/rsggolf.html RSG Roll Call http://rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=driscolld

Response:

The only downside is the rather significant shutter lag.  Press the shutter release and it can take up to 1/2 sec or so to focus and shoot.

[snip] Is that delay a digital cam thing?  I have a nikon coolpix, (800 I think) and it has that delay.   Before getting used to it, I’d move after the button was clicked.

Nope.  The Olypmus I have is 35mm.  It’s the autofocus which induces the delay. A lot depends on what you’re taking a picture of and how the autofocus is programmed.  I know that the high end Nikons (F-5, etc) have very fast (and $$$) autofocus systems.  The system on my N-80 is fast, but it’s not as fast as your eye’s. Jeff – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My other camera is a Nikon N-80. Digital cams are a pain if you don’t have extra memory or some device to upload the pictures.  At least with an old cam, you can just keep feeding it film when it runs out.  I always bring this old olympus rc35 with me on vacation, it still works pretty good!

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In rec.sport.golf But the pictures from my Pentax K-1000 look a lot better than the same shots with a digital camera, even my brother’s Cannon, which I think has 2.1 or 2.3 MP.

Dan, I’m not trying to compare digital to film.  If I were, I would say that both are dependent on lens quality more than film or CCD.  Take pics with that K1000 using some ASA 800 film with a poor quality 200mm F4.5 telephoto and my 1.3 megapixel will blow them away.  The lens is where it is at. Bruce

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Bruce, you are so right. The camera is merely a lightproof box that holds the film.  The quality of the image is directly related to the quality of the glass that the image passes through, and also the skill of the person controlling how much light gets to the film. This is true for film cameras, but it’s also true for digital. So many people think that because something’s digital, it means it’s automatically superior.  If you’re shopping for a camera and want one indication of quality (ultimately you want to assess image quality too), look at the diameter of the lens.  Bigger (not longer) lenses cost more, but they also *tend* to be higher quality.  Cheap cameras don’t have big lenses because that doesn’t fit in with the financial/marketing plan of the manufacturer. Jeff

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – In rec.sport.golf But the pictures from my Pentax K-1000 look a lot better than the same shots with a digital camera, even my brother’s Cannon, which I think has 2.1 or 2.3 MP. Dan, I’m not trying to compare digital to film.  If I were, I would say that both are dependent on lens quality more than film or CCD.  Take pics with that K1000 using some ASA 800 film with a poor quality 200mm F4.5 telephoto and my 1.3 megapixel will blow them away.  The lens is where it is at. Bruce

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The gap between film and digital is closing very fast.  To get film like quality, you may have to go to a DSLR like the Canon D60.  Check it out at: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/d60-field.htm http://www.luminous-landscape.com/d60.htm   (comparison to film) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -In rec.sport.golf But the pictures from my Pentax K-1000 look a lot better than the same shots with a digital camera, even my brother’s Cannon, which I think has 2.1 or 2.3 MP. Dan, I’m not trying to compare digital to film.  If I were, I would say that both are dependent on lens quality more than film or CCD.  Take pics with that K1000 using some ASA 800 film with a poor quality 200mm F4.5 telephoto and my 1.3 megapixel will blow them away.  The lens is where it is at. Bruce

Response:

Bruce, you are so right. The camera is merely a lightproof box that holds the film.  The quality of the image is directly related to the quality of the glass that the image passes through, and also the skill of the person controlling how much light gets to the film. This is true for film cameras, but it’s also true for digital. So many people think that because something’s digital, it means it’s automatically superior.  If you’re shopping for a camera and want one indication of quality (ultimately you want to assess image quality too), look at the diameter of the lens.  Bigger (not longer) lenses cost more, but they also *tend* to be higher quality.  Cheap cameras don’t have big lenses because that doesn’t fit in with the financial/marketing plan of the manufacturer.

With digital, the quality of the lens and the size of the CCD is very important (bigger pixels) to image quality.  Also playing an integral part is the software (ie., noise reduction, etc.).   – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Jeff In rec.sport.golf But the pictures from my Pentax K-1000 look a lot better than the same shots with a digital camera, even my brother’s Cannon, which I think has 2.1 or 2.3 MP. Dan, I’m not trying to compare digital to film.  If I were, I would say that both are dependent on lens quality more than film or CCD.  Take pics with that K1000 using some ASA 800 film with a poor quality 200mm F4.5 telephoto and my 1.3 megapixel will blow them away.  The lens is where it is at. Bruce

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I’m not trying to compare digital to film.  If I were, I would say that both are dependent on lens quality more than film or CCD.  Take pics with that K1000 using some ASA 800 film with a poor quality 200mm F4.5 telephoto and my 1.3 megapixel will blow them away.  The lens is where it is at. Bruce

Bruce, I am aware of that, but most of the digital camaeras I have seen don’t have interchangeable lenses, except the very expensive models. That may have changed, I don’t follow digital camera technology very closely because I enjoy shooting with my Pentax. FWIW, the lenses I use with my K-1000 are a middle of the road (maybe even entry level) bayonet mount Vivitars, a standard 50mm (with macro) and a 108-200mm zoom. I’m not a camaera junkie, so I can;t tell you what the F-stops or anything else about them, except that they can make good pictures. All told, the body, 2 lenses, lens cases, bag, etc. cost less than $350 and that was well over 10 years ago. My brother paid over $600 last Xmas just for his Cannon and he can’t change lenses, although it does auto-focus pretty fast and accurately. And of course, the digitals are far more convienient and they can easily be touched up or edited on a PC, e-mailed, etc. But for pure picture quality, good quality film, properly shot, still wins. FTR, I expect that when digital will exceed film when they hit 10 MP. Film is an old technology and is probably pretty close to being as good as it will ever get, although there may still be some improvements coming now that there is serious competition from digital cameras. Kodak, Fuji and Poloroid won’t go down without a fight. But we have just scratched the surface of digital imaging technology and there is no telling how good it can get. — Dan Driscoll Member USGA, NCGA RSG FAQ: http://ttsoft.com/thor/rsggolf.html RSG Roll Call http://rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=driscolld

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This is true for film cameras, but it’s also true for digital. So many people think that because something’s digital, it means it’s automatically superior.

I don’t know a whole lot about this stuff as you can see by my post above…  But I would think "real" photographers still use film.  Not to say that there aren’t great digicams out there, and if you’re going direct to a website it surely makes life easier. Similarly with music, people that care about their tone use vacuum tube amplifiers and compressors (don’t laugh, it’s true), tube microphones, and master to analog tape.

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Is that delay a digital cam thing?  I have a nikon coolpix, (800 I think) and it has that delay.   Before getting used to it, I’d move after the button was clicked. Nope.  The Olypmus I have is 35mm.  It’s the autofocus which induces the delay. A lot depends on what you’re taking a picture of and how the autofocus is programmed.

Right, I forgot he asked for 35mm.

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In rec.sport.golf used to an SLR’s instant response, 1/2 second can make the difference between a good picture and a bad one (esp for candid photos). Is that delay a digital cam thing?  I have a nikon coolpix, (800 I think) and it has that delay.   Before getting used to it, I’d move after the button was clicked. I "thought" I had this problem on my digital for a month or so.  Turns out, it is the autofocus.  If you press the button down half way, it will focus, then shoot instantly when you press it all the way.  Always helps to read the manual. :)

thanks, I thought it was loading a program or something :-) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – With the price of a 64meg SmartMedia being around $23 dollars, you don’t have this excuse anymore.  I can store over 100 1.3 megapixel photos on one of them. Bruce

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This is true for film cameras, but it’s also true for digital. So many people think that because something’s digital, it means it’s automatically superior. I don’t know a whole lot about this stuff as you can see by my post above…  But I would think "real" photographers still use film.  Not to say that there aren’t great digicams out there, and if you’re going direct to a website it surely makes life easier. Similarly with music, people that care about their tone use vacuum tube amplifiers and compressors (don’t laugh, it’s true), tube microphones, and master to analog tape.

Steve,    I think you’ll find more professional photographers and photo-journalists using digital-SLRs than you think.  There were some shots published in SI from the US Open last year (one published full-page) that came from a 3.3MP digital SLR.  Put good glass in front of a good quality, large CMOS sensor (or low noise CCD) and you will not notice the difference up to at least 8X10. Brad Swanson

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Question:

I would very much appreciate any advice on my first lens purchase for the Nikon’s N80 camera. The more I read the more I am confused about what I should get. I like to shoot landscapes mostly, though it would be nice to have one lens which can also serve as a zoom. The lenses I have looked at so far are in the 24/28-105 range. My budget for this purchase is about $300. Thanks.

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To thoroughly confuse you, a good first lens for your N80 …    50mm f/1.8 for under $100.    <<

Next, go for a 24mm f/2.8 (under $300).  Then, maybe an 85mm f/1.8 (about $300).  The 50mm will give you good practice for well under your budget.  As you can afford it, go for more lenses.  Consider a good, used lens and save more.  THe above primes will knock the socks off the zoom lens you’re considering.  FWIW, I started out with zooms for my F100 and now use mostly primes.  Best wishes! Steve

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I would very much appreciate any advice on my first lens purchase for the Nikon’s N80 camera. The more I read the more I am confused about what I should get. I like to shoot landscapes mostly, though it would be nice to have one lens which can also serve as a zoom. The lenses I have looked at so far are in the 24/28-105 range. My budget for this purchase is about $300. Thanks.

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The standard lens that comes with the camera (the 28-80 AFD) is quite good. Sure there are better ones, but at the price it can’t be beat. For landscapes you can add a Cosina 19-35 or Tokina 19-35. These cost about $250 and are nice lenses for the money. Not top quality (you’d need to spend 10 times as much for that) but good enough for the casual photographer.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I would very much appreciate any advice on my first lens purchase for the Nikon’s N80 camera. The more I read the more I am confused about what I should get. I like to shoot landscapes mostly, though it would be nice to have one lens which can also serve as a zoom. The lenses I have looked at so far are in the 24/28-105 range. My budget for this purchase is about $300. Thanks.

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I’m interested in this question as well as I’m about to replace my 28 year old mechanical Minolta SRT 303 (same as a 102). The lenses I use now are a Sigma 24mm/2.8, the old Vivitar Series 1 70-210/2.8, and the original Minolta Rokkor 50mm/1.4 to a lesser extent. Currently I’m leaning toward the N80. It’s half the weight of my old Minolta and feels more comfortable in my hand. I’m annoyed it doesn’t have a mirror lock-up or split image manual focus. Since my wife has a Nikon 2020, borrowing her Nikon 24mm/2.8 is a possibility if I stay with the brand as opposed to the Cannon Elan which I also considered. I played briefly with the new Tamron 28-200 XR. It’s amazingly light weight and compact. It seems a little slow but I notice that most of the zooms now are on the slow side until you hit the $1000+ range. It makes me wonder about my old 70-210. The reviews I’ve seen on the Tamron 28-200 XR look pretty good. Any opinions on using the XR with the N80 as an initial lense? On more than one occasion I’ve regretted leaving my camera at home because I didn’t want to lug it around. A light weight do everything combination is attractive even if it’s not optimal. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -The standard lens that comes with the camera (the 28-80 AFD) is quite good. Sure there are better ones, but at the price it can’t be beat. For landscapes you can add a Cosina 19-35 or Tokina 19-35. These cost about $250 and are nice lenses for the money. Not top quality (you’d need to spend 10 times as much for that) but good enough for the casual photographer. I would very much appreciate any advice on my first lens purchase for the Nikon’s N80 camera. The more I read the more I am confused about what I should get. I like to shoot landscapes mostly, though it would be nice to have one lens which can also serve as a zoom. The lenses I have looked at so far are in the 24/28-105 range. My budget for this purchase is about $300. Thanks.

PGP key available from "http://home.covad.net/~watcher/"                      Dave Moore

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I would seriously think about the Nikkor AFD 28-105mm. This lens is versatile, has macro capability of 1:2, and works with the built-in N80 flash.  There are a lot of people with Nikon F100’s using this lens with that camera. For me, it’s a natural choice with the N80.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I would very much appreciate any advice on my first lens purchase for the Nikon’s N80 camera. The more I read the more I am confused about what I should get. I like to shoot landscapes mostly, though it would be nice to have one lens which can also serve as a zoom. The lenses I have looked at so far are in the 24/28-105 range. My budget for this purchase is about $300. Thanks.

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Irfan, Attached are some net wisdoms of which may or may not apply…. o 50mm f1.8 AF: The best value in a Nikon AF lens. This lens is critically acclaimed for its optical quality and speed. The 50mm focal length is considered by many as a versatile general purpose focal length (often labeled as a "normal" lens). o 35mm f2.0 AFD: An excellent performer, probably the best optical formulation of all the 35mm Nikkor lenses. Relatively small front element is easy to shade and filter. The 35mm focal length is an excellent focal length for environmental portraits (capturing people in the context of their environment) and general use. The close focusing capabilities this lens are excellent. o 28mm f2.8 AFD: The 28mm focal length is regarded as a good choice if you own only one wide angle lens. The 28mm focal length is a bit controversial in the Nikkor line. The 28mm f2.8 AFD Nikkor is reported to be the best of the 28mm choices (many are manual focus lenses which you should not use on the N80). [I think there is a 28mm AF and a 28mm AFD of which the AFD is the reported better lens.] This focal length is useful for landscapes. o 24mm f2.8 AFD: The 24mm focal length is the beginning of the ultra wide-angle lens range. Some care is needed in using this lens. The field of view is so large that it takes some experience to get used to getting the horizons level and the vertical lines, vertical. The lens can be used to accentuate strong foreground details with dramatically receding backgrounds. The 24mm f2.8 AFD Nikkor is an excellent optical performer, with dramatic close focusing capabilities. o 85mm f1.8 AFD: The 85mm focal length is often considered a portrait length lens. It offers a comfortable working distance between photographer and subject for capturing head and should portraits. It is also a good focal length for isolating interesting details in landscapes, architectural or scenic photography and it’s speed can often help for available light backup when other focal lengths are too slow (especially if traveling with a limited set of lenses). The lens is somewhat large and requires a filter size larger than the other lenses discussed above. It is also best used with the supplied hood to minimize loss of contrast due to lens flare. An excellent lens by all standards. This is not a close focusing lens. Check the specs for the minimum focusing distance. This mild telephoto is a good choice for a limited set and couples well with a 35mm or 28mm focal length for a light travel kit. Now for a first lens on a limited budget (for a camera body that is designed for autofocus lenses). I would almost always recommend the 50mm f1.8 AF Nikkor. This lens at $100 is a lens that you will always be able to afford to keep. It’s speed will make it useful in low light situations where other lenses may not be able to capture the desired image. With your interest in landscapes, the 28mm lens is another possibility. For many photojournalists, the 28mm is a bread and butter, general purpose lens. With some practice, it can be very effective for small groups and individuals. It is a good environmental portrait lens, but requires that the photographer be able to quickly establish a comfortable working relationship with the subject as the primary subject to camera distance is just a few feet. I personally prefer the 24mm focal length, however I believe that is too wide for a beginner in a restricted lens set. There are some on this group for which the 24mm is a bread and butter lens. IMO it is an uncommon photographic vision that starts at 24mm. IMO the 24mm (for landscape, architecture and special emphasis) coupled with the 35mm for general purpose covers 85% of my photographic work with a SLR. When working with a rangefinder, the 35/50 covers 100% of my work (the landscapes here are scenics or travel landscapes – I don’t know how that fits with your definition). I find that the 24mm focal length begs a tripod at first, especially where vertical and horizontal lines are involved (architectural stuff included). For crowd work, it’s just step in close (inside the foreground clutter) and get what you can’t get with a longer lens. For speed, optical quality, general versatility with some landscape capabilities, I think the 35mm f2.0 AFD lens is worth investigating. Only you will be able to tell if it comes close to your vision of what landscape photography requires. With a good, fast 35mm, I could do without the 50mm, however this is all a matter of taste. Good luck with your choice. Regards, Roger – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I would very much appreciate any advice on my first lens purchase for the Nikon’s N80 camera. The more I read the more I am confused about what I should get. I like to shoot landscapes mostly, though it would be nice to have one lens which can also serve as a zoom. The lenses I have looked at so far are in the 24/28-105 range. My budget for this purchase is about $300. Thanks.

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If your interests lay in general walk-around picture taking, I suggest your very first lens should be either the 28-105mm or the 24-120mm lens. I have friends who use the 28-105mm lens and they seem to be happy with it. I use the 24-120mm lens and I don’t have any complaints worth noting, at least none that bother me. Between the two, I would favor the 24-120mm. Reason being that from 24mm to about 100mm it’s as good as can be expected. At 120mm it tends to be a little soft, but it’s still not bad. Considering that it covers the 28-105mm range and does well throughout that range, it would be my first choice of lenses. While at my local camera store procuring new stocks of film, I noticed Nikon had made a give-away reprint of the May 1997 published test reports on an F5 and a 24-120mm lens. If your interested in viewing what a lens of this design may be capable of, I scanned the major portion of the 24-120mm test report and uploaded it to my photo web page. Questions concerning the 24-120mm lens often appear and I thought since I had a copy of the report and it is a give-away publication, I would save it and supply it when interest in it was shown. It will appear large on your monitor but you can download it and fit it to your screen. http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=565239 Nick – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I would very much appreciate any advice on my first lens purchase for the Nikon’s N80 camera. The more I read the more I am confused about what I should get. I like to shoot landscapes mostly, though it would be nice to have one lens which can also serve as a zoom. The lenses I have looked at so far are in the 24/28-105 range. My budget for this purchase is about $300. Thanks.

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BE CAREFUL WHEN YOU PLAN!  The N80 wont meter old lenses.  Check it out before you buy if you plan on using lenses  you already have. Jason – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Since my wife has a Nikon 2020, borrowing her Nikon 24mm/2.8 is a possibility if I stay with the brand as opposed to the Cannon Elan which I also considered.

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The AF Nikkor 24-85/2.8-4.0 is a nice lens, and so is the 24-120/3.5-5.6.  The 24-85 seems to be a tad better optically, and it is significantly faster, but the zoom range of the 24-120 is really handy. The 24-120 sells for around $400; the 24-85 is pricier, at around $460. I tend to use the 24-85 more often than the 24-120, since I rarely need focal lengths beyond 85, and the 24-85, as I’ve said, seems to be a little bit better optically, and it is comfortably fast.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I would very much appreciate any advice on my first lens purchase for the Nikon’s N80 camera. The more I read the more I am confused about what I should get. I like to shoot landscapes mostly, though it would be nice to have one lens which can also serve as a zoom. The lenses I have looked at so far are in the 24/28-105 range. My budget for this purchase is about $300. Thanks.

Response:

No, I have to strongly disagree with that.  Buy a single, good zoom instead of multiple primes.  The difference between a good prime and a good zoom is not significant for most photography; the zoom provides much better bang for the buck if you need more than just one focal length; and you don’t have to carry around multiple lenses with a zoom. The old saw about primes being so much better than zooms no longer has any validity; it hasn’t been valid for years now.  At equivalent prices, you’ll get very close to the same optical quality in zooms and primes … certainly close enough to parity for most photo work, unless you photograph test charts all day.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – To thoroughly confuse you, a good first lens for your N80 …    50mm f/1.8 for under $100.    << Next, go for a 24mm f/2.8 (under $300).  Then, maybe an 85mm f/1.8 (about $300).  The 50mm will give you good practice for well under your budget.  As you can afford it, go for more lenses.  Consider a good, used lens and save more.  THe above primes will knock the socks off the zoom lens you’re considering.  FWIW, I started out with zooms for my F100 and now use mostly primes.  Best wishes! Steve I would very much appreciate any advice on my first lens purchase for the Nikon’s N80 camera. The more I read the more I am confused about what I should get. I like to shoot landscapes mostly, though it would be nice to have one lens which can also serve as a zoom. The lenses I have looked at so far are in the 24/28-105 range. My budget for this purchase is about $300. Thanks.

Response:

Attached are some net wisdoms of which may or may not apply….

None of them are zooms, which is sort of huge missing feature. Now for a first lens on a limited budget (for a camera body that is designed for autofocus lenses). I would almost always recommend the 50mm f1.8 AF Nikkor.

This isn’t a zoom, either. With your interest in landscapes, the 28mm lens is another possibility.

With a zoom, you get both. You give nice advice, but you completely ignored the request for a ZOOM, not a fixed-focal-length lens.

Response:

The big problem with either of these zooms is that they render the wonderful little built-in flash of the N80 virtually useless, since they block it, and tend to cause a "flash shadow" insuring that the N80 owner is going to have to fork out another  $250 +/- for a flash. Additionally, each of the mentioned zooms will run approximately $150 to $200 more than the Nikkor AFD 28-105mm. I think few would argue that the additional cost certainly isn’t going into improved optics, actually, quite the opposite seems to be true. Then of course, we come to filter size. We move up from a comfortable 62mm to 72mm for each of the zooms you mentioned, which will, over time, add considerable expense to the ownership of these lenses. I think one could safely ask whether the addition of the Nikkor AFD 70-300mm ED lens to the Nikkor AFD 28-105mm wouldn’t make more sense at around $600 for both.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The AF Nikkor 24-85/2.8-4.0 is a nice lens, and so is the 24-120/3.5-5.6.  The 24-85 seems to be a tad better optically, and it is significantly faster, but the zoom range of the 24-120 is really handy. The 24-120 sells for around $400; the 24-85 is pricier, at around $460. I tend to use the 24-85 more often than the 24-120, since I rarely need focal lengths beyond 85, and the 24-85, as I’ve said, seems to be a little bit better optically, and it is comfortably fast. I would very much appreciate any advice on my first lens purchase for the Nikon’s N80 camera. The more I read the more I am confused about what I should get. I like to shoot landscapes mostly, though it would be nice to have one lens which can also serve as a zoom. The lenses I have looked at so far are in the 24/28-105 range. My budget for this purchase is about $300. Thanks.

Response:

The big problem with either of these zooms is that they render the wonderful little built-in flash of the N80 virtually useless, since they block it, and tend to cause a "flash shadow" insuring that the N80 owner is going to have to fork out another  $250 +/- for a flash.

Built-in flashes are of extremely limited usefulness, anyway, unless your subject is only about two feet away.

Response:

insuring that the N80 owner is going to have to fork out another  $250 +/- for a flash. Built-in flashes are of extremely limited usefulness, anyway, unless your subject is only about two feet away.

I’m not sure about the N80, but, when I had an N70, I found the pop-up flash incredibly useful, and surpringly powerful. It had a GN of around 50, if I recall correctly. I kept forgetting, though, to remove the hood from my 35-70 AF 2.8, the lens I usually had mounted, and it would cast a nasty shadow….

Response:

Hi, Thank you to all of you who responded to my inquiry on my first lens purchase for the N80. I think I was able to obtain a lot more info than I possibly thought. I really appreciate all the help. Irfan

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I would very much appreciate any advice on my first lens purchase for the Nikon’s N80 camera. The more I read the more I am confused about what I should get. I like to shoot landscapes mostly, though it would be nice to have one lens which can also serve as a zoom. The lenses I have looked at so far are in the 24/28-105 range. My budget for this purchase is about $300. Thanks.

Response:

I’m not sure about the N80, but, when I had an N70, I found the pop-up flash incredibly useful, and surpringly powerful.

The N80 flash is large enough to definitely be useful in some situations, but it isn’t very efficient at lighting up a group of people at night or anything like that, whereas an external flash can often manage.  It’s nice to have the built-in flash, though. I kept forgetting, though, to remove the hood from my 35-70 AF 2.8, the lens I usually had mounted, and it would cast a nasty shadow….

I have the same problem, although built-in flashes are so close to the lens already that the lens itself tends to cast a giant shadow.

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -If your interests lay in general walk-around picture taking, I suggest your very first lens should be either the 28-105mm or the 24-120mm lens. I have friends who use the 28-105mm lens and they seem to be happy with it. I use the 24-120mm lens and I don’t have any complaints worth noting, at least none that bother me. Between the two, I would favor the 24-120mm. Reason being that from 24mm to about 100mm it’s as good as can be expected. At 120mm it tends to be a little soft, but it’s still not bad. Considering that it covers the 28-105mm range and does well throughout that range, it would be my first choice of lenses. While at my local camera store procuring new stocks of film, I noticed Nikon had made a give-away reprint of the May 1997 published test reports on an F5 and a 24-120mm lens. If your interested in viewing what a lens of this design may be capable of, I scanned the major portion of the 24-120mm test report and uploaded it to my photo web page. Questions concerning the 24-120mm lens often appear and I thought since I had a copy of the report and it is a give-away publication, I would save it and supply it when interest in it was shown. It will appear large on your monitor but you can download it and fit it to your screen. http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=565239

It mentions barrel distortion: does anyone know how bad it is on the 28-105 at 28mm compared to the 24-120 at 28mm? — Nic

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m interested in this question as well as I’m about to replace my 28 year old mechanical Minolta SRT 303 (same as a 102). The lenses I use now are a Sigma 24mm/2.8, the old Vivitar Series 1 70-210/2.8, and the original Minolta Rokkor 50mm/1.4 to a lesser extent. Currently I’m leaning toward the N80. It’s half the weight of my old Minolta and feels more comfortable in my hand. I’m annoyed it doesn’t have a mirror lock-up or split image manual focus. Since my wife has a Nikon 2020, borrowing her Nikon 24mm/2.8 is a possibility if I stay with the brand as opposed to the Cannon Elan which I also considered. I played briefly with the new Tamron 28-200 XR. It’s amazingly light weight and compact. It seems a little slow but I notice that most of the zooms now are on the slow side until you hit the $1000+ range. It makes me wonder about my old 70-210. The reviews I’ve seen on the Tamron 28-200 XR look pretty good. Any opinions on using the XR with the N80 as an initial lense? On more than one occasion I’ve regretted leaving my camera at home because I didn’t want to lug it around. A light weight do everything combination is attractive even if it’s not optimal. The standard lens that comes with the camera (the 28-80 AFD) is quite good. Sure there are better ones, but at the price it can’t be beat. For landscapes you can add a Cosina 19-35 or Tokina 19-35. These cost about $250 and are nice lenses for the money. Not top quality (you’d need to spend 10 times as much for that) but good enough for the casual photographer. I would very much appreciate any advice on my first lens purchase for the Nikon’s N80 camera. The more I read the more I am confused about what I should get. I like to shoot landscapes mostly, though it would be nice to have one lens which can also serve as a zoom. The lenses I have looked at so far are in the 24/28-105 range. My budget for this purchase is about $300. Thanks. PGP key available from "http://home.covad.net/~watcher/"                     Dave Moore

The Tamron 28-200 seems to be well received, as reviewed on Photography Review, a 4.67 rating is very high, although there are only 6 reviews so far. http://www.photographyreview.com/pscLenses/35mm,Zoom/Tamron,Industrie…

Response:

I would very much appreciate any advice on my first lens purchase for the Nikon’s N80 camera. The more I read the more I am confused about what I should get. I like to shoot landscapes mostly, though it would be nice to have one lens which can also serve as a zoom. The lenses I have looked at so far are in the 24/28-105 range. My budget for this purchase is about $300. Thanks.

I picked up a 35-70mm 2.8 lens on ebay for $290. What a bargain. I’ve heard many on this NG say that the 35-70 does not give you much range, but it sure beats having a fixed 35 or 80mm lens. I love this lens. A 28-105 can be had on ebay for under 300 unless the bidders go rabid, or the seller has a shill bidder hiking the bid up. Tokina makes a 28-200 that seems to get very good reviews. I posted a message earlier with that link, but have included it below. That is a new lens and may be hard to come by used, sells for about $330 new. Good luck with your N80. I had the N70 for 1.5 years, then moved up to the F100. If your results are as good with the N80 as I had with the N70, you will not be disappointed. I would cauton you about third party lenses, as the build quality on many of them are often suspect. Some are better than others. http://www.photographyreview.com/pscLenses/35mm,Zoom/Tamron,Industrie…

Response:

Question:

A significant part of my standardized lens testing is the shooting at different distances, focal lengths and f-stops resolution test targets.  Where (corners and edges) the Nikon and even the vivitar continued to resolve ever smaller lines (more lines per mm), the tokina began to show only fuzzy little blurs.  This is not good performance.  It is possible that the Tokinas are only suffering from high curvature of field, but my tests cannot determine that. Anyhow, high curvature is not good. Good resolution is not the only criterion of good lens performance, but my feeling is if it cannot resolve the lines, then the lens has failed to meet a necessary condition, and probably should be rejected.  Interestingly, I have frequently encountered similar performance in other Tokina lenses (eg 17mm AFD ATX), and , as a result, favor other brands. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – agreed on the nikon 20-35/2.8.  great lens. i think what i have read about the tokina 20-35/2.8 is that the aberrations/distortions are very well corrected on that lens.  maybe the extra optics explains the lack of contrast.  the nikon does have pretty noticeable distortion at the wide end, but not real bad and it is really, really, sharp. mediocre.  As another alternative, I would suggest you look for a used Nikon 20-35/2.8 .  It is very ruggedly built and exceptionally sharp.

Response:

Hi, I’m thinking about acquiring a wide angle zoom lens for my Nikon F100, but I consider the Nikkor 17-35mm f/2.8 as too expensive. The alternatives are: Tokina AT-X PRO 20-35mm f/2.8 or Nikkor 18-35mm f/3.5-4.5. What is the best lens optically? Tokina or Nikkor? I do not mind the wider angle of 18mm. Is the Tokina 100% electronically compatible with the Nikon F100? Thanks in advance for your replies, Arnold FRANCK Belgium

Response:

I cannot speak to the Nikon 18-35, but I have owned and tested two Tok 20-35/2.8 lenses.  My $150 Vivitar 19-35 had better resolution and contrast.  I returned the first one because resolution was mediocre, particularly at the corners.  I bought and tried a second one thinking perhaps the first one might have been a lemon.  Well, the second one was no better. I ended up buying the Nikon 20-35/2.8 (since replaced by my nikon 17-35)which could blow the tokinas away.  I do not recommend the tokinas which are very solidly built, but optically mediocre.  As another alternative, I would suggest you look for a used Nikon 20-35/2.8 .  It is very ruggedly built and exceptionally sharp. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, I’m thinking about acquiring a wide angle zoom lens for my Nikon F100, but I consider the Nikkor 17-35mm f/2.8 as too expensive. The alternatives are: Tokina AT-X PRO 20-35mm f/2.8 or Nikkor 18-35mm f/3.5-4.5. What is the best lens optically? Tokina or Nikkor? I do not mind the wider angle of 18mm. Is the Tokina 100% electronically compatible with the Nikon F100? Thanks in advance for your replies, Arnold FRANCK Belgium

Response:

agreed on the nikon 20-35/2.8.  great lens. i think what i have read about the tokina 20-35/2.8 is that the aberrations/distortions are very well corrected on that lens.  maybe the extra optics explains the lack of contrast.  the nikon does have pretty noticeable distortion at the wide end, but not real bad and it is really, really, sharp.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – mediocre.  As another alternative, I would suggest you look for a used Nikon 20-35/2.8 .  It is very ruggedly built and exceptionally sharp.

Response:

Question:

  THe barrel distortion is not great but if you are comparing to a Vivitar — it’s nothing. I want to get a shift/tilt 24 for architecture, but for the normal wide angle stuff the 24 Sigma can focus on a flower 4 inches from the lens with great depth of field — that’s a lot for 170.00. — http://home.nc.rr.com/tspadaro/ The Camera-ist’s Manifesto a Radical approach to photography. A few pictures are available at http://www.homeusers.prestel.co.uk/magor/tony

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The 24 mm f2.8 Sigma is going to run rings around it and is 170 at B&H in the US. I don’t know what that translates into for Canadian, but it’s a much better lens — focuses down to about 4 inches too. A much better lens?  It may be sharp and contrasty, but its barrel distortion is so bad that it’s firmly in the "semi-fisheye" category. Also, it is mechanically very weak indeed (at least in Nikon AF mount) and the focusing mechanism has a short working life. I would recommend the Tamron 24mm f/2.8 SP (Adaptall 2) as being far superior to both Vivitar and Sigma lenses, both optically and mechanically.  They can be bought used on eBay for very little money, produce very satisfying results and will last a lifetime. — Best regards, Jan

Response:

yes, I’d have to say that $200 C$ is a bit high for an older Kiron/vivitar 24mm f/2 lens, IMHO. I picked one up in nikon mount with a nikon EL camera on Ebay for under $100 US$ – for camera and 24mm f/2 lens and flash. So figure $50-ish $US rather than $200 $C? I also have the 28mm f/2 vivitar, again under $50 US, pristine lens, for when speed is mandatory. Otherwise, I tend to use my slower 28mm f/2.8 and 24mm f/2.8 lenses… if you don’t need the speed, there are lots of 24mm lenses out there at f/2.8 which have better performance (distortion etc.) for similar prices. As other posters noted, there are more modern 24mm options which have benefitted from new glass and designs in 25 years. To me, the big attraction for the 24mm f/2 and 28mm f/2 vivitars is that as a speed lens, they are one of the few options to the pricey OEM f/2 lenses, and usually are only $50 rather than $300 or so for the OEM f/2 optics. If you don’t intend to use them at f/2 very much, you should look at the better slower newer optics for less $$… bobm — * Robert Monaghan POB752182 Southern Methodist University, Dallas Tx 75275  * * Third Party 35mm Lenses: http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/third/index.html  * * Medium Format Cameras: http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/mf/index.html       *

Response:

Anyone tried these? They sell for $200 at henry’s here in Toronto, Canada.

I have an f/2 one, it was a very nice lens, but its gone out of alignment and can’t produce a sharp photo even at f/11. $200 (even Cdn$) sounds very steep for a lens like this you could get a second hand OEM lens for that sort of price. (Mine was about

Question:

Jon, IIRC The F-X3 is a deeper bag than the F-6. If you want to carry your bodies with lenses mounted, I’m not sure either is adequate. I carry a F-X3 with F3HP or FM2n with lens mounted, two other lenses. Add a SB-24 in one pocket and accessories in the other. The F-X3 is deep enough you could stack two of your lenses. You might squeeze in a "lensless" body in the second pocket. I think it’s a tight fit. In the F-X3 you can carry your bodies "vertically, with a grip side down". This takes advantage of the bag height. I like less cramped quarters so I can work out of the bag more easily. The F-6 has six compartments (about a body height or 105mm lens + hood height deep). There are no "end" pockets on the F-6 so that’s why it is more compact. The bodies carry better horizontally in the F-6 which takes up real estate. It might be on the short side for stacking lenes. It’s been a while since I one. I can get one F3HP with lens mounted (e.g. 35mm with hood), and one each of 24/50/85 and a SB-24 in a 803 camera satchel. I could cram in the FM body in a front pocket but it’s getting pretty tight. Without the lens mounted it will take the two bodies (back to back), lenses stacked and flash (wedged). For carrying two bodies with lens ready, I prefer the Original F-2 Domke. Regards, Roger – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m looking for a compact camera bag for day trips, and I’m trying to decide between two Domke bags, the F-6 and the F-X3.  This is what I need to carry: Nikon F3HP (no motor drive) Nikon FM2n (no motor drive) 20mm f/2.8D 35mm f/1.4 AIS 50mm f/1.2 AIS 85mm f/1.4 AIS Couple rolls of film Maybe a few screw-on filters. Maybe. That’s it. If anyone has experience with either one of these bags and a similar equipment setup, please tell me which might be the best bag for the job. Thank you, Jon

Response:

I’m looking for a compact camera bag for day trips, and I’m trying to decide between two Domke bags, the F-6 and the F-X3.  This is what I need to carry: Nikon F3HP (no motor drive) Nikon FM2n (no motor drive) 20mm f/2.8D 35mm f/1.4 AIS 50mm f/1.2 AIS 85mm f/1.4 AIS Couple rolls of film Maybe a few screw-on filters. Maybe. That’s it. If anyone has experience with either one of these bags and a similar equipment setup, please tell me which might be the best bag for the job. Thank you, Jon

Response:

Question:

Thanks for all the help on this issue as I did finally take it to KEH. Some $375 later and replacing 3 boards, the camera is back to working condition. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi: I decided to do something stupid(which isn’t rare for me) and was crossing an inlet of the Chattooga rive to take a picture of some waterfalls. While crossing the stream (water was about 8 inches deep) I slipped on a rock and I and the Nikon F5 camera got wet with very cold water for a few seconds. Water got in the DP-30 I noticed but the camera seemed to function OK. However, I noticed later on that evening the camera no longer has power. Tried new batteries but to no avail. So, I am in need of a good repair shop in Atlanta preferably on the east or northeast side as I live in Athens to hopefully bring the F5 back to life. Nikon lists on the east side Camera Repair Japan Co. on Oakbrook Prkwy. Has anyone had any experience with them? Or, what about KEH? Can you bring the camera to their location and drop off rather than ship? Or, is there another good option? Or, should I just ship it to Nikon and hope I get it back before next year? Thanks.

Response:

I have had excellent service from Southeast Camera Repair, now located in Duluth. The owner was the formwer manager of Nikon’s factory repoair center in Atlanta several years ago. They are off off Pleasant HIll Road east of I-85. regards, Don – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi: I decided to do something stupid(which isn’t rare for me) and was crossing an inlet of the Chattooga rive to take a picture of some waterfalls. While crossing the stream (water was about 8 inches deep) I slipped on a rock and I and the Nikon F5 camera got wet with very cold water for a few seconds. Water got in the DP-30 I noticed but the camera seemed to function OK. However, I noticed later on that evening the camera no longer has power. Tried new batteries but to no avail. So, I am in need of a good repair shop in Atlanta preferably on the east or northeast side as I live in Athens to hopefully bring the F5 back to life. Nikon lists on the east side Camera Repair Japan Co. on Oakbrook Prkwy. Has anyone had any experience with them? Or, what about KEH? Can you bring the camera to their location and drop off rather than ship? Or, is there another good option? Or, should I just ship it to Nikon and hope I get it back before next year? Thanks.

Response:

Since it is water damaged, you are best advised to send it directly to Nikon for service.  It may cost more but the factory is less likely to screw you around during the repair warranty period. — John Hermanson  www.zuiko.com Camtech, Olympus Sales & Service since 1977 New OM & Used, Digital, Pearlcorders, Binoculars 21 South Lane, Huntington NY 11743-4714 631-424-2121

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi: I decided to do something stupid(which isn’t rare for me) and was crossing an inlet of the Chattooga rive to take a picture of some waterfalls. While crossing the stream (water was about 8 inches deep) I slipped on a rock and I and the Nikon F5 camera got wet with very cold water for a few seconds. Water got in the DP-30 I noticed but the camera seemed to function OK. However, I noticed later on that evening the camera no longer has power. Tried new batteries but to no avail. So, I am in need of a good repair shop in Atlanta preferably on the east or northeast side as I live in Athens to hopefully bring the F5 back to life. Nikon lists on the east side Camera Repair Japan Co. on Oakbrook Prkwy. Has anyone had any experience with them? Or, what about KEH? Can you bring the camera to their location and drop off rather than ship? Or, is there another good option? Or, should I just ship it to Nikon and hope I get it back before next year? Thanks.

Response:

And if not I’m afraid it’s history.  The cost of repair would exceed the cost of replacement.  Take care. — Fred Maplewood Photography – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Actually you might still be in luck. Remove the batteries immediately the next time you dunk a camera BTW. Anyhow, open up all the doors on the camera, take battery out, and remove the lenses and prism and let it sit out for a day or two.  They can dry out and sometimes they are good to go. Thomas GO Photography www.mindspring.com/~photoj

Response:

<< and the Nikon F5 camera got wet with very cold water for a few seconds. Water got in the DP-30 I noticed but the camera seemed to function OK. However, I noticed later on that evening the camera no longer has power. We should all learn from your experience.  The worst thing is SALT WATER, and the second worst is just water. No matter how brief a dunking a camera takes, ANY water is too much.  We often get misled by advertising or simply by looking at the exterior of a body and assume they’re as tough inside as they are outside.  Wrong.  Many components in cameras are made from untreated steel, and moisture trashes those parts almost immediately.  We are talking hours, not days or a week.   If your camera took a SERIOUS dunking,–like fully under water for a bit, it is best to IMMEDIATELY (1)  take out the batteries (2) Place the camera in either a bucket of completely fresh water or something like 100 proof vodka where it is covered completely, and (3) get it to a repair facility as soon as possible with instruction as to what happened and what you then did. The electronics of today’s cameras virtually assure you that most cameras are beyond economic repair (thus the reason you should have full coverage with a floater policy) compared to something like a Nikon F or F2 that you can dip in vodka for 24 hours, and then slowly dry it out with a hairdryer and actually get to work again.  (Optics are the exception). You would be surprised how quickly a camera can be thoroughly cleaned and repaired by Nikon inc.  What happened to you happens, unfortunately, every day of the year somewhere. Dan Lindsay Santa Barbara

Response:

Try Peachtree Camera & Video on Wylie Road in Marietta. 770-795-8020. Not cheap, but good quality, and quick. Walt McKinney

Response:

Give KEH a call and see what they can do. It’s too late for you, but always remove the batteries from dunked electronics. Electrolysis will likely destroy the circuits inside.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi: I decided to do something stupid(which isn’t rare for me) and was crossing an inlet of the Chattooga rive to take a picture of some waterfalls. While crossing the stream (water was about 8 inches deep) I slipped on a rock and I and the Nikon F5 camera got wet with very cold water for a few seconds. Water got in the DP-30 I noticed but the camera seemed to function OK. However, I noticed later on that evening the camera no longer has power. Tried new batteries but to no avail. So, I am in need of a good repair shop in Atlanta preferably on the east or northeast side as I live in Athens to hopefully bring the F5 back to life. Nikon lists on the east side Camera Repair Japan Co. on Oakbrook Prkwy. Has anyone had any experience with them? Or, what about KEH? Can you bring the camera to their location and drop off rather than ship? Or, is there another good option? Or, should I just ship it to Nikon and hope I get it back before next year? Thanks.

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Response:

Actually you might still be in luck.   Remove the batteries immediately the next time you dunk a camera BTW. Anyhow, open up all the doors on the camera, take battery out, and remove the lenses and prism and let it sit out for a day or two.  They can dry out and sometimes they are good to go. Thomas GO Photography www.mindspring.com/~photoj

Response:

Give KEH a call and see what they can do. It’s too late for you, but always remove the batteries from dunked electronics. Electrolysis will likely destroy the circuits inside.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi: I decided to do something stupid(which isn’t rare for me) and was crossing an inlet of the Chattooga rive to take a picture of some waterfalls. While crossing the stream (water was about 8 inches deep) I slipped on a rock and I and the Nikon F5 camera got wet with very cold water for a few seconds. Water got in the DP-30 I noticed but the camera seemed to function OK. However, I noticed later on that evening the camera no longer has power. Tried new batteries but to no avail. So, I am in need of a good repair shop in Atlanta preferably on the east or northeast side as I live in Athens to hopefully bring the F5 back to life. Nikon lists on the east side Camera Repair Japan Co. on Oakbrook Prkwy. Has anyone had any experience with them? Or, what about KEH? Can you bring the camera to their location and drop off rather than ship? Or, is there another good option? Or, should I just ship it to Nikon and hope I get it back before next year? Thanks.

Response:

Hi: I decided to do something stupid(which isn’t rare for me) and was crossing an inlet of the Chattooga rive to take a picture of some waterfalls. While crossing the stream (water was about 8 inches deep) I slipped on a rock and I and the Nikon F5 camera got wet with very cold water for a few seconds. Water got in the DP-30 I noticed but the camera seemed to function OK. However, I noticed later on that evening the camera no longer has power. Tried new batteries but to no avail. So, I am in need of a good repair shop in Atlanta preferably on the east or northeast side as I live in Athens to hopefully bring the F5 back to life. Nikon lists on the east side Camera Repair Japan Co. on Oakbrook Prkwy. Has anyone had any experience with them? Or, what about KEH? Can you bring the camera to their location and drop off rather than ship? Or, is there another good option? Or, should I just ship it to Nikon and hope I get it back before next year? Thanks.

Response: