Question:
There seem to be some great deals at my local camera shops on older non-AI Nikon lenses. Some of them look almost new! Are these of the same high quality as the later models, and if so, why aren’t more people using them with, say, an older used Nikon body? It would seem that if you don’t care about programmed exposures and AF, this would be a good choice. Has anyone done this? I’d be curious about your results and opinions. Jim
Response:
No, in order to mount them on an AI camera you need to have them converted – some expense, time and hassle. If you don’t you could damage the lens mount on the camera. Optically the lenses are fine. Try to choose multicoated models. Fred Maplewood Photography
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – There seem to be some great deals at my local camera shops on older non-AI Nikon lenses. Some of them look almost new! Are these of the same high quality as the later models, and if so, why aren’t more people using them with, say, an older used Nikon body? It would seem that if you don’t care about programmed exposures and AF, this would be a good choice. Has anyone done this? I’d be curious about your results and opinions. Jim
Response:
Yes. They are a relative bargain. Most of the late non-AI lenses were multi-coated (usually a "C" was seen in the front ring designation). Optically, they are on a par with some of the current lenses, with the exception of the telephotos. With ED glass in the later Nikkors, the earlier Nikkors (in the non-AI range) are not that great. As you suggest, using them on an earlier non-AI Nikon or Nikkormat is a fairly smart choice. You can still get some of the Nikkors converted to AI but most of the conversion kits have been discontinued and are nearly impossible to find today. My favorite from that era,– the 24mm f/2.8 and 105mm f/2.5 P.C Dan
Response:
Yes they cost $25 to adapt and mount. And a week or 10 days shipping both ways.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – No, in order to mount them on an AI camera you need to have them converted – some expense, time and hassle. If you don’t you could damage the lens mount on the camera. Optically the lenses are fine. Try to choose multicoated models. Fred Maplewood Photography There seem to be some great deals at my local camera shops on older non-AI Nikon lenses. Some of them look almost new! Are these of the same high quality as the later models, and if so, why aren’t more people using them with, say, an older used Nikon body? It would seem that if you don’t care about programmed exposures and AF, this would be a good choice. Has anyone done this? I’d be curious about your results and opinions. Jim
Response:
My favorite from that era,– the 24mm f/2.8 and 105mm f/2.5 P.C
I bought yesterday a AI-modified Nikkor-P 105/2.5, the price was pretty fair. It is in very, very good condition and seem to be build like a tank. I was told that "P" in the name of the lens is for single coat, and P.C is for multi coat. Am I right? However, I am looking forward to see pictures I shot yesterday! Jussi
Response:
There seem to be some great deals at my local camera shops on older non-AI Nikon lenses. Some of them look almost new!
Did you notice any with the old "Passed" sticker which has turned to "Failed" with age? It’s ingenious. Are these of the same high quality as the later models, and if so, why aren’t more people using them with, say, an older used Nikon body? It would seem that if you don’t care about programmed exposures and AF, this would be a good choice. Has anyone done this? I’d be curious about your results and opinions.
My guess is that so many people avoid them because most of the good old Nikon lenses are missing a hyphen. Modernsters are conditioned to buy lenses with "-" in the designation. Zooms. Not all old Nikon lenses were great. You can pick up a 35mm F2 for $50, an adequate lens for a great price. Carefull with the 300mm F4.5. There were a few variations. Old ones can be had for $125, while the ED IF might run you $600 in EX+ condition. The 1000mm reflex lens was generally better (better contrast) than the 500 reflex! It goes on and on. And on. Can you narrow your interest to a few focal lengths so we can make real comments?
Response:
I was told that "P" in the name of the lens is for single coat, and P.C is for multi coat. Am I right?
P stands for "penta-" (five elements). The "C" indicates Nikon Integrated Coating (multicoating). So… strictly speaking no, but your conclusions are correct. Other Nikkors, say the 50/2 second version, have different letters (Nikkor-H in this case). The Nikkor-H is single-coated, -HC multicoated. The first letter could be any of several letters (H, Q, N, S, P being most common). Jim
Response:
The 105mm f/2.5 lens has a P which represents PENTA,–five elements. The "C" is there to specify the multi-coating. For several years, Nikkor lenses were labeled with the number of elements they contained. Why, I have no idea. Perhaps a marketing trick to convince you that more was better. Dan Lindsay
Response:
There seem to be some great deals at my local camera shops on older non-AI Nikon lenses. Some of them look almost new!
I own a few… I bought some and my father bought the rest, They have all been converted to AI and all work well on my N90s. What do I notice… My 55mm F.35 macro won’t flare no matter what Ido. My 135m F3.5 while not recognized as a great lens still takes some fine shots. My 28m produces great shots. I can’t see the aperature in the view finder My old converted non-AI’s show incredible resolution, sharp ness adn contreast. Some my current model zooms flair if the sun is even slightly near the center of the photo.
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