Question:
Hey all (first off, feel free to correct me in any respect) Not too long ago I posted asking about using studio flash…well, I have another question that just occurred to me. As I understand it studio type flashes traditionally connect to a camera via a PC cable. I’ve noticed that many of the new SLRs out there don’t have PC connectors, just hotshoes (and dedicated, at that). So is it possible to use a studio flash with a newer body, ie with some sort of hotshoe adapter? The reason I ask this is that although I still haven’t got a studio flash system I would like to at some point; I’m also thinking about upgrading to a more modern camera. I use a wonderful old Nikkormat FT2 with three non-AI Nikkor lenses now, but I kinda feel an itching for something more modern technologically, that will take modern lenses (I’m thinking a Nikon N80 or equiv), but would still like to be able to use it as a studio camera eventually. Maybe I should just get an FM2n instead… 
thx Billy S. — William J. Spiropoulos, Cowtown eccentric extraordinaire please remove the obvious spamblocker to email me
Response:
There are many hot-shoe to PC adaptors. Most are cheap, crappy and will fail at the worst possible moment. The Nikon AS-15 is cheap and good. It has a screw to lock it to the hot-shoe. Some studio flashes use a trigger voltage that can fry some modern SLR’s, but there is a product called a Safe Sync made by Wein, which is a hot-shoe to PC adaptor combined with a voltage protection ciruit. Lisa – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey all (first off, feel free to correct me in any respect) Not too long ago I posted asking about using studio flash…well, I have another question that just occurred to me. As I understand it studio type flashes traditionally connect to a camera via a PC cable. I’ve noticed that many of the new SLRs out there don’t have PC connectors, just hotshoes (and dedicated, at that). So is it possible to use a studio flash with a newer body, ie with some sort of hotshoe adapter? The reason I ask this is that although I still haven’t got a studio flash system I would like to at some point; I’m also thinking about upgrading to a more modern camera. I use a wonderful old Nikkormat FT2 with three non-AI Nikkor lenses now, but I kinda feel an itching for something more modern technologically, that will take modern lenses (I’m thinking a Nikon N80 or equiv), but would still like to be able to use it as a studio camera eventually. Maybe I should just get an FM2n instead… thx Billy S. — William J. Spiropoulos, Cowtown eccentric extraordinaire please remove the obvious spamblocker to email me
Response:
Don’t know about Nikon but some of the new Canon’s (my EOS 3, for instance) have PC connectors. The hot shoe adaptor is also an option, although you have to be careful of the voltage with newer cameras. And using a shoe mounted flash to trigger a slave attached to your strobes is another option. Paul – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey all (first off, feel free to correct me in any respect) Not too long ago I posted asking about using studio flash…well, I have another question that just occurred to me. As I understand it studio type flashes traditionally connect to a camera via a PC cable. I’ve noticed that many of the new SLRs out there don’t have PC connectors, just hotshoes (and dedicated, at that). So is it possible to use a studio flash with a newer body, ie with some sort of hotshoe adapter? The reason I ask this is that although I still haven’t got a studio flash system I would like to at some point; I’m also thinking about upgrading to a more modern camera. I use a wonderful old Nikkormat FT2 with three non-AI Nikkor lenses now, but I kinda feel an itching for something more modern technologically, that will take modern lenses (I’m thinking a Nikon N80 or equiv), but would still like to be able to use it as a studio camera eventually. Maybe I should just get an FM2n instead… thx Billy S. — William J. Spiropoulos, Cowtown eccentric extraordinaire please remove the obvious spamblocker to email me
Response:
Don’t know about Nikon but some of the new Canon’s (my EOS 3, for instance) have PC connectors.
I think the higher level Nikons all have PC–F5, F100, that sort. The N-series (except for the N90, which I’m not sure if they still make) do not. And I think all the old manual Nikons have them. The hot shoe adaptor is also an option, although you have to be careful of the voltage with newer cameras. And using a shoe mounted flash to trigger a slave attached to your strobes is another option.
Ok, I think I follow…slaves fire when they see another flash go off, correct? But can I assume that a shoe mounted flash will necessarily be pointed at the subject (which I may not always want)? Not trying to be a pain here, just want to understand all this… thanks Billy S.
Response:
There are many hot-shoe to PC adaptors. Most are cheap, crappy and will fail at the worst possible moment. The Nikon AS-15 is cheap and good. It has a screw to lock it to the hot-shoe. Some studio flashes use a trigger voltage that can fry some modern SLR’s, but there is a product called a Safe Sync made by Wein, which is a hot-shoe to PC adaptor combined with a voltage protection ciruit. Lisa
Thanks for the info, Lisa! I suspected there might be adapters out there, but I didn’t really know anything about them. regards, Billy S.
Response:
Not too long ago I posted asking about using studio flash…well, I have another question that just occurred to me. As I understand it studio type flashes traditionally connect to a camera via a PC cable. I’ve noticed that many of the new SLRs out there don’t have PC connectors, just hotshoes (and dedicated, at that). So is it possible to use a studio flash with a newer body, ie with some sort of hotshoe adapter?
Doing so via an adapter is quick and easy. Beware: some studio flash systems may have high trigger voltages, and some modern cameras can’t take that. See http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/mf/flash.html Sync cords are cumbersome at best, and they can be downright dangerous with monolights, since they’re plugged in to that heavy light up high on a stand, so that when (not if) you trip over them, you’ll bring something heavy and expensive crashing down. A far handier way to trigger studio flash systems is to mount a cheap, small modern flash on your hotshoe, set it to manual low power so it will recycle quickly, and tape a piece of wratten #87 IR gel across it to block all the visible light while passing infrared. This will trigger your studio flash system’s slave unit(s) with no messy cords and no worries about sync voltages. The reason I ask this is that although I still haven’t got a studio flash system I would like to at some point; I’m also thinking about upgrading to a more modern camera. I use a wonderful old Nikkormat FT2 with three non-AI Nikkor lenses now, but I kinda feel an itching for something more modern technologically, that will take modern lenses (I’m thinking a Nikon N80 or equiv), but would still like to be able to use it as a studio camera eventually. Maybe I should just get an FM2n instead…
Even if you get a new camera, keep your FT2. It’s very nearly as fine a studio camera as they make in 35mm, and you can use it with virtually any Nikkor lens ever made (no worries about meter coupling in the studio). Nothing wrong with an FM2n, either. In the studio, a new camera’s electronics are pretty useless. –Rich Before you buy.
Response:
(snip) But can I assume that a shoe mounted flash will necessarily be pointed at the subject (which I may not always want)? Not trying to be a pain here, just want to understand all this…
The flash doesn’t have to be aimed at the subject. It could be bounced from the ceiling or wall, as long as the slave can "see" the flash. I did a portrait shoot once with my 8008s and forgot the PC adapter. I used a white card held by an assistant to bounce the on-camera flash toward the slave on the pack (which was behind and to the right of me). You probably wouldn’t want the on-camera flash to point at the subject anyway. This will add another highlight (catchlight) to the eyes (I hate when I see this in ads, it says the photographer has no idea of how to light a subject). Richard
Response:
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – (snip) But can I assume that a shoe mounted flash will necessarily be pointed at the subject (which I may not always want)? Not trying to be a pain here, just want to understand all this… The flash doesn’t have to be aimed at the subject. It could be bounced from the ceiling or wall, as long as the slave can "see" the flash. I did a portrait shoot once with my 8008s and forgot the PC adapter. I used a white card held by an assistant to bounce the on-camera flash toward the slave on the pack (which was behind and to the right of me). You probably wouldn’t want the on-camera flash to point at the subject anyway. This will add another highlight (catchlight) to the eyes (I hate when I see this in ads, it says the photographer has no idea of how to light a subject). Richard
On occasion I have draped the off-camera cord, with the flash on the end, over my shoulder. With it pointing at the wall behind me, it has successfully set off the slaves, while adding essentially no light to the mix, as the small flash I used was doing a ten foot, then bounce, then back the ten feet just to reach my camera position. — Digital photo restoration in autumnal Chapel Hill NC http://www.homeusers.prestel.co.uk/magor/tony New – A Digital Workflow + Sharpness: Threat or Menace? And Selecting Your First SLR - Java must be enabled Before you buy.
Response:
On 2-Dec-2000, "William J. Spiropoulos" Some studio flashes use a trigger voltage that can fry some modern SLR’s, but there is a product called a Safe Sync made by Wein, which is a hot-shoe to PC adaptor combined with a voltage protection ciruit. Lisa
Lisa is right about PC adaptors failing at the worst possible moment. So, if you’re going this route, buy several… you won’t regret it. On the subject of the Wein Safe-Sync, they fail, too. I had one that broke at the point where the PC Cord connects to it. This was at a critical moment right before the bride was about to walk down the aisle. In the few precious seconds I had to shoot, I quickly reached down into my bag and switched out to a cheaper adapter I had as a backup. Whew!! Talk about dodging a "bullet". I was SWEATING them for what seemed wayyyyy longer than it actually was. MORAL: ALWAYS keep several backups (cords, adapters, batteries, flashes, etc). Felix, Ft Worth, TX Featuring the worlds only Anonymous Usenet Server
Response:
Good points Gene. Another alternative (which I use) is infrared wireless triggers. While they do have disadvantages compared to radio slaves (like can’t go through walls or anything that blocks light) they do have the advantage of being economical. I think the Wein SSRjr trigger and slave kit is under $100. My only problem with wireless hotshoe triggers is when I turn the camera vertical. The trigger blocks my non-camera eye, the one I use to make eye contact with the person I’m photographing:) Lisa – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – On 2-Dec-2000, "William J. Spiropoulos" Some studio flashes use a trigger voltage that can fry some modern SLR’s, but there is a product called a Safe Sync made by Wein, which is a hot-shoe to PC adaptor combined with a voltage protection ciruit. Lisa Lisa is right about PC adaptors failing at the worst possible moment. So, if you’re going this route, buy several… you won’t regret it. This is an exercise in futility. When PC tipped flash sync cords fail, it is NOT because there is something wrong with the wiring inside the cord. The problem is with the poor design of the PC connector inself. By the way, "PC" is an anconym which means "poor contact." Seriously, "PC" stands for Prontor/Compur, which is a type of shutter which was first used by the Carl Zeiss company back in the 1930s. So we can accurately guess about where to place the blame for this curse against flash photography. For many years, the Japanese manufactures refused to refer to this as a "PC" connector in their literature, instead they usually called it a "German" connector – implying it was shit and that they could have designed something better. Indeed, over the years the Japanese have offered several alternatives for a flash sync terminal – but none seem to have caught on. By eliminating the PC terminal from some 35mm SLRs, the Japanese have forced SLR users to use one of the several alternaternatives – and thereby doing users a big favor. A PC connector tip has a male and a female electrical connection. Like all electrical connectors, these tend to oxidize over time. The oxidation which forms on the metal surfaces acts as an insulator, which breaks the electrical connection. The problem with PC connectors is that they are so small that there is no way to clean the oxidation away from the inside of the metal surfaces. If the PC connector on the cord is oxidized, it can’t be cleaned – so replacing it is the only alternative. But even a brand new cord is almost as likely to have oxidized PC connector tips – unless you buy the kind that are gold plated. If (when) the PC connector on your camera, or the adapter you slide into your hot shoe – such as the Nikon AS-15 or the Wein Safe-Sync get oxidized – you can replace sync cords until the cows come home and your problem won’t be solved. There are several ways of cleaning the contact surfaces of PC connectors, which involve use of solvents and/or abrasion same as all electrical contacts. Unfortunately, these remedies don’t work very well or last very long. The problem is that the PC connector was designed from the beginning with the contact surfaces between male and female being made too small. The contact surfaces do not involve enough area for the normal abrasion created by normal insertion and removal to scrape away the oxidation. So any "cure" for poor electrical contact can be only temporary. For only occasional and lame amateur usage, PC flash sync connections may be satisfactory if one can live with the problems of intermittance. But if reliable flash sync is a requirement, PC terminals are simply unsat. A better solution is to rely on hot shoe flash sync connections, rather than the PC terminal. Paramount Cords manufacturers flash sync cords which have a plug that slides directly into the camera’s hot shoe. As the contact pin on the plug scrapes across the central terminal within the hot shoe, it "ploughs through" the built-up oxidation and makes a reliable electrical contact. B&H Photo sells these Paramount flash sync cords, with a hot shoe connector on the end that connects to the camera, for about $20. They can be ordered directly from the factory in custom lengths for about $10 more. For studio flash outfits, Paramount can custom manufacture a sync cord with any type of connector in any length you want – and the hot shoe connector on the camera end. Alternatively, the Bogen Pocket Wizard Plus radio slave transmitter slides into the camera’s hot shoe and is triggered by the hot shoe. If your remote flashes have optical slaves, they can be triggered with a small, shoe mounted flash on the camera with a Wratten infrared gel taped over the flash tube. In summary, nobody uses PC connectors for flash sync unless they are a masochist and thrive on embarrassment and frustration. There are simply too many other better alternatives.
Response:
On 2-Dec-2000, "William J. Spiropoulos" Some studio flashes use a trigger voltage that can fry some modern SLR’s, but there is a product called a Safe Sync made by Wein, which is a hot-shoe to PC adaptor combined with a voltage protection ciruit. Lisa Lisa is right about PC adaptors failing at the worst possible moment. So, if you’re going this route, buy several… you won’t regret it.
This is an exercise in futility. When PC tipped flash sync cords fail, it is NOT because there is something wrong with the wiring inside the cord. The problem is with the poor design of the PC connector inself. By the way, "PC" is an anconym which means "poor contact." Seriously, "PC" stands for Prontor/Compur, which is a type of shutter which was first used by the Carl Zeiss company back in the 1930s. So we can accurately guess about where to place the blame for this curse against flash photography. For many years, the Japanese manufactures refused to refer to this as a "PC" connector in their literature, instead they usually called it a "German" connector – implying it was shit and that they could have designed something better. Indeed, over the years the Japanese have offered several alternatives for a flash sync terminal – but none seem to have caught on. By eliminating the PC terminal from some 35mm SLRs, the Japanese have forced SLR users to use one of the several alternaternatives – and thereby doing users a big favor. A PC connector tip has a male and a female electrical connection. Like all electrical connectors, these tend to oxidize over time. The oxidation which forms on the metal surfaces acts as an insulator, which breaks the electrical connection. The problem with PC connectors is that they are so small that there is no way to clean the oxidation away from the inside of the metal surfaces. If the PC connector on the cord is oxidized, it can’t be cleaned – so replacing it is the only alternative. But even a brand new cord is almost as likely to have oxidized PC connector tips – unless you buy the kind that are gold plated. If (when) the PC connector on your camera, or the adapter you slide into your hot shoe – such as the Nikon AS-15 or the Wein Safe-Sync get oxidized – you can replace sync cords until the cows come home and your problem won’t be solved. There are several ways of cleaning the contact surfaces of PC connectors, which involve use of solvents and/or abrasion same as all electrical contacts. Unfortunately, these remedies don’t work very well or last very long. The problem is that the PC connector was designed from the beginning with the contact surfaces between male and female being made too small. The contact surfaces do not involve enough area for the normal abrasion created by normal insertion and removal to scrape away the oxidation. So any "cure" for poor electrical contact can be only temporary. For only occasional and lame amateur usage, PC flash sync connections may be satisfactory if one can live with the problems of intermittance. But if reliable flash sync is a requirement, PC terminals are simply unsat. A better solution is to rely on hot shoe flash sync connections, rather than the PC terminal. Paramount Cords manufacturers flash sync cords which have a plug that slides directly into the camera’s hot shoe. As the contact pin on the plug scrapes across the central terminal within the hot shoe, it "ploughs through" the built-up oxidation and makes a reliable electrical contact. B&H Photo sells these Paramount flash sync cords, with a hot shoe connector on the end that connects to the camera, for about $20. They can be ordered directly from the factory in custom lengths for about $10 more. For studio flash outfits, Paramount can custom manufacture a sync cord with any type of connector in any length you want – and the hot shoe connector on the camera end. Alternatively, the Bogen Pocket Wizard Plus radio slave transmitter slides into the camera’s hot shoe and is triggered by the hot shoe. If your remote flashes have optical slaves, they can be triggered with a small, shoe mounted flash on the camera with a Wratten infrared gel taped over the flash tube. In summary, nobody uses PC connectors for flash sync unless they are a masochist and thrive on embarrassment and frustration. There are simply too many other better alternatives.
Response:
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – On 2-Dec-2000, "William J. Spiropoulos" Some studio flashes use a trigger voltage that can fry some modern SLR’s, but there is a product called a Safe Sync made by Wein, which is a hot-shoe to PC adaptor combined with a voltage protection ciruit. Lisa Lisa is right about PC adaptors failing at the worst possible moment. So, if you’re going this route, buy several… you won’t regret it. This is an exercise in futility. When PC tipped flash sync cords fail, it is NOT because there is something wrong with the wiring inside the cord. The problem is with the poor design of the PC connector inself. By the way, "PC" is an anconym which means "poor contact." Seriously, "PC" stands for Prontor/Compur, which is a type of shutter which was first used by the Carl Zeiss company back in the 1930s. So we can accurately guess about where to place the blame for this curse against flash photography. For many years, the Japanese manufactures refused to refer to this as a "PC" connector in their literature, instead they usually called it a "German" connector – implying it was shit and that they could have designed something better. Indeed, over the years the Japanese have offered several alternatives for a flash sync terminal – but none seem to have caught on. By eliminating the PC terminal from some 35mm SLRs, the Japanese have forced SLR users to use one of the several alternaternatives – and thereby doing users a big favor. A PC connector tip has a male and a female electrical connection. Like all electrical connectors, these tend to oxidize over time. The oxidation which forms on the metal surfaces acts as an insulator, which breaks the electrical connection. The problem with PC connectors is that they are so small that there is no way to clean the oxidation away from the inside of the metal surfaces. If the PC connector on the cord is oxidized, it can’t be cleaned – so replacing it is the only alternative. But even a brand new cord is almost as likely to have oxidized PC connector tips – unless you buy the kind that are gold plated. If (when) the PC connector on your camera, or the adapter you slide into your hot shoe – such as the Nikon AS-15 or the Wein Safe-Sync get oxidized – you can replace sync cords until the cows come home and your problem won’t be solved. There are several ways of cleaning the contact surfaces of PC connectors, which involve use of solvents and/or abrasion same as all electrical contacts. Unfortunately, these remedies don’t work very well or last very long. The problem is that the PC connector was designed from the beginning with the contact surfaces between male and female being made too small. The contact surfaces do not involve enough area for the normal abrasion created by normal insertion and removal to scrape away the oxidation. So any "cure" for poor electrical contact can be only temporary. For only occasional and lame amateur usage, PC flash sync connections may be satisfactory if one can live with the problems of intermittance. But if reliable flash sync is a requirement, PC terminals are simply unsat. A better solution is to rely on hot shoe flash sync connections, rather than the PC terminal. Paramount Cords manufacturers flash sync cords which have a plug that slides directly into the camera’s hot shoe. As the contact pin on the plug scrapes across the central terminal within the hot shoe, it "ploughs through" the built-up oxidation and makes a reliable electrical contact. B&H Photo sells these Paramount flash sync cords, with a hot shoe connector on the end that connects to the camera, for about $20. They can be ordered directly from the factory in custom lengths for about $10 more. For studio flash outfits, Paramount can custom manufacture a sync cord with any type of connector in any length you want – and the hot shoe connector on the camera end. Alternatively, the Bogen Pocket Wizard Plus radio slave transmitter slides into the camera’s hot shoe and is triggered by the hot shoe. If your remote flashes have optical slaves, they can be triggered with a small, shoe mounted flash on the camera with a Wratten infrared gel taped over the flash tube. In summary, nobody uses PC connectors for flash sync unless they are a masochist and thrive on embarrassment and frustration. There are simply too many other better alternatives.
Gene, The best alternitive to high sync voltage and sync cords is a Hot Shoe sync cord with voltage protection in the cord. Go to the Paramount site http://www.paramountcords.com/vp.htm http://www.paramountcords.com
Response:
For many years, the Japanese manufactures refused to refer to this as a "PC" connector in their literature, instead they usually called it a "German" connector – implying it was shit and that they could have designed something better.
In fact, during the same era there WAS a widely-used alternative design that was clearly better: a flash connector little bigger than the PC, but with locking bayonet lugs so it couldn’t pull off, and a spring-loaded center terminal for positive contact. The twist action required to engage the bayonet lugs made it self-wiping, too. It was called the ASA (American Standards Association) flash connector and was standard on US-made and some Japanese equipment. Unfortunately, most serious photographers figured that ANYTHING "made in Germany" had to be better than anything "made in USA," so the well-designed and functional ASA flash contact fell by the wayside and the unreliable, ineptly designed PC contact became the world standard.
Response:
Gene, The best alternitive to high sync voltage and sync cords is a Hot Shoe sync cord with voltage protection in the cord. Go to the Paramount site http://www.paramountcords.com/vp.htm
I agree with you, if one must attach the flash to the camera by wire or wants to avoid the higher-cost, wireless alternatives. I’ve used Paramount Cords for many years, and highly recommend them. I think the voltage protected cord is a great new innovation.
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